Not sure how you can say that the only pressure sign in loose primer pockets. It is apparent that you do not understand presssure signs. When a primer pocket gets loose the primer itself looks like it is almost formed into the brass or they are welded together. Long before the pockets get loose the flattening of the primers is noticeable. I cannot see how you do not have extractor marks unless you are shooting a falling block but you talked about bolt lift. I do hope your gun in a bolt or falling block and not a lever gun. Pull the bullets you have reloaded and back off the powder!!!!!!!!!!!!!! If you shoot these reloads as the weather gets hotter you will have another large increase in pressure. If one of your cases is a bit over length and it crimps the bullet in the case in your gun you will have a big pressure increase. You have no safety factor left. If one of these things chare or various others it will be a big bang when you pull the trigger. If you want a bigger gun buy a bigger gun.Anytime someone gets hurt or killed from a reloading accident it gets us one step closer to a bunch of government regulations.
358 win mag
- Thread starter meetyourmaker
- Start date
Well gentlemen in the circles I talk in there is a 358 Win Mag...........but it certainly is not based on a 308 case.......it is a wildcat based on the 300 WM case and is easily capable of driving a 200 gn @ 3200 fps........it has several other names as well. I do believe that this gentleman is discussing the 358 Winchester factory cartridge though and trying to get 350 RM ballistics from it...........maybe that's where he came up with the new name.
mym...........The best advice I can give you at this point would be to go and buy 3 or 6 reloading manuals and read the part in every one of them preceding the load data and then read the load data for 358 WINCHESTER.........not 35 Whelen or 350 Rem Mag and you need to do this before you charge another case with powder or seat another bullet. I am noted for being able to squeak the last fps from a cartridge, and at least safely in my own opinion, but you sir are ignoring all the warning signs and forging on to new vistas of ballistic realization. "Damn the torpedoes, (warning signs) full speed ahead"
My second best advice I can give you........... have you considered coin collecting or stamps possibly, any hobby that doesn't put you in proximity to explosives, or rapidly burning nitrocellulose..........JMHO
mym...........The best advice I can give you at this point would be to go and buy 3 or 6 reloading manuals and read the part in every one of them preceding the load data and then read the load data for 358 WINCHESTER.........not 35 Whelen or 350 Rem Mag and you need to do this before you charge another case with powder or seat another bullet. I am noted for being able to squeak the last fps from a cartridge, and at least safely in my own opinion, but you sir are ignoring all the warning signs and forging on to new vistas of ballistic realization. "Damn the torpedoes, (warning signs) full speed ahead"
My second best advice I can give you........... have you considered coin collecting or stamps possibly, any hobby that doesn't put you in proximity to explosives, or rapidly burning nitrocellulose..........JMHO
meetyourmaker
New member
- Location
- OILERS 5 cups - ALBERTA
childeren... my topic is 358Win. which is based on a .473 /308 case ...just in case the homers couldn't figure it out themselves,,,, try reading before spouting off.
Warnings are appreciated... but any warning with attached sarcasim has no value.
Why so much negativity from easterners... are the leafs falling ?
Warnings are appreciated... but any warning with attached sarcasim has no value.
Why so much negativity from easterners... are the leafs falling ?
No one is going to help you destroy your firearm or possibly kill yourself. Sarcasm or not you are being completely reckless and obviously have very little experience reloading. People are being negative because you are ignoring all advice. It boggles my mind that you are even asking this question. Just out of curiosity how much case head expansion are you getting? How much are the cases stretching? Be good information for people to know what to look for when you are way overpressure. Sounds like you are doing destructive testing to me and not reloading.
People were reading, the problem is the nonsense that you were posting for them to read. When you come to a forum asking for advice, it's a good idea not to arrive with a big chip on your shoulder. Your posts have made it quite clear, that your knowledge of reloading is extremely limited, but instead of accepting advice from people that obviously have much more knowledge on the topic than you do, you get offended, and then go into a childish rant about the people that bothered to respond to your thread. You have two choices, you can continue with the attitude, and either people will just ignore your posts, or you will be shown the way off of the forum. Or you can stop with the attitude, and listen to people that actually know what they are talking about, and you might just learn some things that you obviously don't know. The choice is yours.
Tabacco Brook
Regular
- Location
- Nova Scotia
meetyourmaker,...you should heed everyones warning and back off on the powder, or try a different powder. But I doubt you are going to get 2700fps safely, or with out signs of preasure using any powder. The 358win was designed to be a 2500+/- fps round with a 200gr bullet,...and it is very deadly on game at that weight speed combination.
My pet load for my BLR 358win is 47gr of IMR 3031, FED 210 primer with a 200gr Hornady SP,...this load is probably giving me somewhere close to 2600fps from the 20" barrel,...I have never shot it across a chronograph, so 2600 is just a guess based on what the manuals stated velocities are from longer barrels. 47gr of 3031 is close to max in most manuals and over max in others, but I don't get any signs of preasure. I also load 47gr of 3031 with the 220gr Speer HC FP with no signs of preasure.
As someone has already stated, if you need more velocity maybe you should pick up a 35 Whelen, or 350 Remington Magnum. What are you hunting with it? 180gr - 200gr standared cup and core bullets will do great on deer and like sized game, and 225gr - 250gr will do fine on the bigger stuff at the speed and distance the 358win was designed for. I have never had the pleasure of hunting the larger animals, but I sure know it does a job on Whitetails and Black bears.
In short,...for your own safety, don't try to turn the good old 358win into something that it's not,...it works just fine the way it is.
I hope none of my post came across as sarcastic,...I sure didn't mean it that way. Happy shootin,...and don't blow yourself up, lol.
My pet load for my BLR 358win is 47gr of IMR 3031, FED 210 primer with a 200gr Hornady SP,...this load is probably giving me somewhere close to 2600fps from the 20" barrel,...I have never shot it across a chronograph, so 2600 is just a guess based on what the manuals stated velocities are from longer barrels. 47gr of 3031 is close to max in most manuals and over max in others, but I don't get any signs of preasure. I also load 47gr of 3031 with the 220gr Speer HC FP with no signs of preasure.
As someone has already stated, if you need more velocity maybe you should pick up a 35 Whelen, or 350 Remington Magnum. What are you hunting with it? 180gr - 200gr standared cup and core bullets will do great on deer and like sized game, and 225gr - 250gr will do fine on the bigger stuff at the speed and distance the 358win was designed for. I have never had the pleasure of hunting the larger animals, but I sure know it does a job on Whitetails and Black bears.
In short,...for your own safety, don't try to turn the good old 358win into something that it's not,...it works just fine the way it is.
I hope none of my post came across as sarcastic,...I sure didn't mean it that way. Happy shootin,...and don't blow yourself up, lol.
Some people can recognise and learn from the good advice without getting pissy about it. For everyone else, life is going to be harder. I tend to let the pissy ones just figure it out for themselves, they're too dam smart to be wrong even when they are.
To me a 358 wm is a 300 Wm or 338 wm case opened to 358.
The 358 win is just that a 308 necked up
If you can't read the data stamp on the rifle you should not be reloading
If you want a 200 gr at 2700 fps buy a different rifle and use factory loads
If you refuse to take any advise given here just plz leave a large space between yourself and the next shooter
The 358 win is just that a 308 necked up
If you can't read the data stamp on the rifle you should not be reloading
If you want a 200 gr at 2700 fps buy a different rifle and use factory loads
If you refuse to take any advise given here just plz leave a large space between yourself and the next shooter
hmm,
Don't want to hijack the OP thread but I was just going to start asking about reloading the .358 Win, I never reloaded rifle before, I was thinking of shooting the Nosler Partition 225gr for Deer and Bear. I was thinking of using H4895...you guys have better recommendation bullet or powder wise?
Don't want to hijack the OP thread but I was just going to start asking about reloading the .358 Win, I never reloaded rifle before, I was thinking of shooting the Nosler Partition 225gr for Deer and Bear. I was thinking of using H4895...you guys have better recommendation bullet or powder wise?
Funny thing, I don't load the .358win and was going entirely off the obvious pressure signs of primer blown out in one firing for my previous post. Now no matter what velocity you are getting if the brass is toast in one firing its way to hot period. Just browsing data for kicks I noticed Hodgons data showing a 200 grain bullet at 2630fps with 3031 at 51800cup. Going by this data, as long as barrel lengths are similar there is no reason 2700 couldn't be reached safely. Definitely not a dangerous load.
The data in a manual is a starting point for the firearm and the particular lot of components used for the testing. For other firearms, the maximum safe load can vary.
