Has anybody had a 375 built without the second recoil lug? Or had the second lug removed? Wouldn't removing the second lug on the barrel improve accuracy as the barrel would then be fully free floating? Would not building with or removing the second lug cause the stock to crack? The 375 even with 300 grain bullets has manageable recoil and not a heavy hitter like a 458 Lott or the other eye socket popping rifles, just makes me think it would get away with no second lug. I am wanting to call a couple of local gunsmiths when I get more time and see what they think. I also want to hear your thoughts.
375 h&h questions for anyone with more experience than me.
- Thread starter jpappy
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notsorichguy
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My 375 H&H is a Rem 700.....
It has one lug, in the "normal" R700 location....
It has one lug, in the "normal" R700 location....
When I rebarrelled my CZ .375 and made it into a .375 Weatherby I didn't put in the forward lug. I have a factory M70 with no forward luv and with its hollowed out forend there wouldn't be anything for it to contact anyway. My Custom shop M700 doesn't have a forward lug either. All got bedded, some sooner, some later. All are crossbolted, the American guns were born that way and the CZs after I got a B-Square jig. None broke.
You are correct in assuming the 375 H&H does not require a second recoil lug on the barrel. The only rifle I have ever owned in 375 H&H that had it was the 602 Brnos and I have had several of them. It's a whole nother story when you hit the 416 Rigby and up though.
I haven't seen that many .375's with the front lug. I think in most cases it's probably more for show than anything else...I know that the model 70 I was looking at had the front lug "bedded" into some rubbery goop that had the consistency of chewing gum. That thing wasn't doing anything other than trying to look cool.
I am pretty certain that the front screw that goes through the forearm and engages the dovetail in the slot under the rear sight 'boss' on the ZKK actions does not (nor is intended to) absorb rearward recoil. I believe it is designed to maintain the stock to barrel relationship (with downward pressure.) Probably more important than two recoil lugs however is/are crossbolts to prevent the stock from being split as the action may act as a wedge under heavy recoil. I dont shoot anything bigger that a 375h&h....although I do have the pleasure of owning a very accurate .270W Sako with a stock design that can beat me up!
I have two cross bolts on this 375, I found the stock touching the barrel in front of the second lug. I was thinking of clearing up any areas to try and get a free floated barrel. I want to remove the second lug but I knew I needed more info on this. Thank you for the input guys. My point of impact changes as the barrel heats up, I don't shoot bench rest competition with this rifle. I found it is noticeable on firing fast three shot groups, I reload 300 grain accubonds with imr 4350. I have room to tighten my groups up with my hand loads, I found with a cold barrel my groups are tight. If I shoot a three shot group it will make a triangle pattern, then let the barrel cool and it will make another triangle pattern. The second pattern will make it look like three less than MOA groups have been shot. This gun has done this pattern with two different Leupold scopes on it, my bases are secure and rings are tight. I think I will fully free float this barrel and test it again.
My 375 H&H is a pre-64 Model 70. It has the standard recoil lug and no crossbolts and there's no cracks anywhere even between the trigger and magazine inletting. . If the recoil lug fits the stock inlet close to 100% and everything is tight, I don't see a problem. . Might be a good idea to bed the recoil inlet in the stock and be certain and as said relieve the tang area just a tad.
