38/200 or 38 S&W

woodchopper

woodchopper

Moderator
Moderator
Rating - 100%
78   0   0
Location
WMU247 near Edmonton
Ok here is my problem I have a new toy comming :D

but it diet consist of 38 S&W, not 38 Special which I have lots of brass once fired in my .357.

So I know I can get dies for 38 S&W but I can't seem to find brass, and the 38 Brass is too long (not a problem) but too fat. The 38 Special is .379" and not tapered while the 38S&W is tapered from .3865" to .3855"

Anyone know where I can find 38S&W brass or is it safe to fireform the narrower base 38 Special brass.

they are both rimmed and have the same rim sizes.

then the fun of finding bullets and load data.
 
I'm sure that there will be some .38S&W brass accompanying your latest acquisition.
IF you were to trim .38Spec. brass to .38S&W length, the resulting rounds would fire, but the cases would really puffed out. I don't think that this could be a recommended practice.
 
Yep, 36 S&W brass is around.

Slug your bore, some of these guns have a .360 bore rather then .358!!

Do NOT use anything other then 38S&W brass. You will be risking blown brass and case seperation due to a wider base for the 38S&W!!
 
It isn't puffed, you can't even notice it. And don't worry about separation, the .38S&W isn't exactly a magnum round.

My Webley Mk5 is quite happy with spcl cases rough cut and trimmed. I don't however, recommend substituting brass at will. You were right to ask.

This conversion is in the handbook.
 
Last edited:
gunasauras said:
I bought brand new Starline 38 S&W Brass at MilArm in Edmonton approx 18 months ago. Perhaps they may still have some......
Click to expand...


I forgot Milarm has reloading stuff now. Its been a while since I was last there, and I normally only go there to dig around in the parts bins for enfield bits, and thats getting a little thin. Guess I need to take a trip and check out their brass.

I am also thinking of slugging the bore when my new revolver arrives.

Its at the province CFO now.... so I'll be chating with them daily till it gets approved :)
 
It was a common practice to run .38 Special reamers into .38 Victory Model Smiths to make them more saleable. The difference in chamber diameter is apparent when the fired cases are examined. You are correct - the pressures are modest, and likelihood of a blown head is low. If I could not get the correct brass, I would convert Specials. The .38 S&W ammunition currently manufactured takes the old top break nickle plated revolvers into consideration.
 
Yes I have been doing a bit of reading and research as well on all the post war 38/200 .38 S&W revolvers, interesting. The conversion to 30 special seemed to be very common for S&W model 10 revolvers but less so for the topbreak revolvers.

I'm fairly confident now that I should not have a problem getting the proper brass for reloading. So next is to dig out my old reloading manuals and see what they recomend.

As for converting it to 38 Special I would rather shoot it with extra mild loads in fireformed 38 cases, or limit myself to one or 2 boxes of 38S&W reloads then to modify it to take 38 Specials for my convienence. I tend to go out of my way to restore Enfield rifles why not do the same for a pistol. (I've allready started pricing up a lanyard ring :) )


So before I start buying powder anyone have a favorite load

I'll be even happier if it uses winchester 231, I still have about a quarter of a pound. And it's a little too quick for .357mag but its all I have right now.
 
I checked my reloading manuals, Lymans has the 38 S&W and to my surprise the winchester powder brochure has a listing for the 38 S&W and it recomends 231, I guess I'm in luck.

(Numerich - Lanyard rings listed at $5.35USD but of course sold out)
 
I purchased a S&W .38/200 British Service Revolver earlier this year and have had luck with both 2.7 grains of Red Dot or 3.0 grains of Unique. Mind you they chrono between 775-800 fps. Start a little lighter depending on the handgun. I have noticed that the results that I get are at least 75-100 fps higher than the reloading manuals that I use suggest.

The Best favour that you can do yourself is phone Wholesale and order a Lee Carbide Sizing Die in .38acp/.38 super/.38 Colt NP Part number 90619 I believe. Excellent piece of kit. About 6 months ago I was able to buy 500 rds of .38 S&W brass here at gunnutz, just keep watching.
 
Garand said:
The Best favour that you can do yourself is phone Wholesale and order a Lee Carbide Sizing Die in .38acp/.38 super/.38 Colt NP Part number 90619 I believe.
Click to expand...

This is what I've been loading with. I freaked out at first as the .38S&W carbide set has .38Auto stamped on the sizer. But it's the correct one.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom