.38/.357 Components and Dies

T

TRDYamahauler

Member
Rating - 100%
1   0   0
Location
Kootenays, BC
I searched but didn’t really find exactly what I’m after. I want to start reloading for a Ruger GP100 6”, maybe a matching lever gun down the road. Looking for an accurate and softer shooting plinking load (.38 w/ 148 WC?) and a big flash/bang .357 load for giggles. I might have a line on some .38 brass but otherwise I’m looking for a shopping list for bullets, primers, powder and brass available from site sponsors.

Also need a set of dies so suggestions for best brand would be great. Recipes and load data would be alright too but I can go to the manuals for that. It would be ideal to be able to do things like use the same powder and cut down on the amount of components a guy has to stock. Thanks!
 
I load .357 all the time and you can load them hot, or not, depending on the powder and charge weight. Therefore, I don’t really bother with .38’s. Campro makes a decent 158 gr projectile, or you can spend more money on Hornady and others. Check out Budget Shooter Supply (sponsor on this site), Henry usually has what you need. Great round to play with.
 
Another vote for not worrying about loading 38's, the cost difference between them and 357 is marginal and the lightest 38 isn't a whole lot lighter than the lightest 357 you could put together. Plus, less worry about carbon rings in the revolver cylinder (since toy aren't using short brass). And you'll either spend a lot of time resetting dies between 38 and 357, or bite the bullet and just buy an extra set of dies that are literally exactly the same.

The only time I'd ever load 38's is if I actually owned a 38 SPL gun. I trade all the 38 SPL brass I collect to a guy for 357 brass at about a 1:1 rate as he rarely loads 357.
 
Don't load and shoot 38s. They will form a carbon ring in the cylinder which can be a b!tch to remove. It prevents chambering or extracting a 357 case.

I do not know if a 38 will cycle as well in a lever rifles as a 357 case.

I suggest you load 158 gr semi wadcutters. They will probably feed better in the rifle than a full wadcutter.

If you load a powder like 2400, it can be loaded to full power, or use the Start load for a nice plinker.

Some powders, like H110 are good for max load, but do not download well.
 
Unless you shoot a model 52, or need clean round holes in paper, why shoot a full wadcutter? Semi-wadcutters load better in everything else and are much simpler to load. 38 brass are cheap and cleaning the toilet bowl ring in a revolver is not hard work and if you shoot a few .357 jacketed bullets at the end of your session, even easier.
 
As mentioned, 357 mag case with a reduced load.(proper powder) I use Cam Pro 158's, H110 full house loads and Unique for light loads, same everything except powder and primers. Both are very accurate. Shot in a GP100. To me 38 special only if you compete with it as its easier to eject and insert new rounds.
 
I recently got a GP100 and have resumed reloading for .38/.357; presently I found an economical source for .38 brass so that is what I am reloading (and as Lead hammer stated, easier to reload and eject). I am using locally sourced 158 SWC and because I got a real buy on 8 lbs of HP38, that is what I am using for all my handguns (9mm, .40 .45 and .38).

I load light for PPC, and this powder works just fine with cheap S&B primers, but it does not take up much room in the case. I find it very soft shooting and very clean and accurate! I do plan on trying some other powders when this runs out.

I am running a Lee Pro1000 press with 3 die Lee carbides for all my pistol ammo. They work fine, and are cost effective.
 
For 38 Spl, it's easy to reload Hornady 148 gr wadcutters with a Lee Loader hand tool (plus a $50 electronic scale). The classic load is 2.8 gr Bullseye powder. With that tool it's easy to seat the wadcutter bullets flush. It's actually easier than loading semi-wadcutters since you don't have to check overall length. Just seat them flush, and roll crimp with the tool. No dies or press required. Works for other bullet types too, of course. The bullets I'm speaking of are Hornady's swaged lead 148 gr HBWC. Being swaged (pressure formed) not cast, they're quite soft. There's a reason why this is the classic load for NRA Bullseye (single handed shooting at 20 yards). Very accurate, apparently because the cavity in the bottom causes the soft lead to conform to the rifling, and the velocity is subsonic (around 800 fps). I have never had a problem with leading.
 
I am loading .38, .357, and 45-70 with Trail Boss powder and Lee single stage press and dies. Accuracy and reliability well beyond my capabilities. After 40 years it is all doing well.

(I load both .38 and .357 because my Winchester '92 will only shoot .357 and my Henry yellow boy will only shoot .38)

You can't go wrong with either Budget or Rusty.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom