38/357 questions

[Spawn-Inc]

have some questions regarding the title.

1. i know a 38 is just a shorter 357, so does that mean the case is just as tough? eg. how do they handle hot loads?

2. what's the best powder for a big flash?

3. what's the best powder for hot loads?

4. are smith and wessons built tough like ruger's?

5. should jacketed be used for hot loads?

6. how important is a factory crimp die?


think that's all for now.

thanks for the help.

 

[mlehtovaara]

1) If you are loading "hot loads" why would you be using a .38 case in the first place? Bigger bullets and more powder fit into .357 cases. I have only .357 cases, as you can load em down just the same. There is no reason to even worry about .38 cases/loads.

2) Big flames typically means you aren't burning all the powder fast enough before the bullet exits the barrel. Not really ideal, but I have found PowerPistol to do this with heavier loads. You might try a little slower powder like 2400 in heavy loads as well.

3) Hot loads can be made with medium burning powders such as 2400 and H110, and the faster powders work better for lighter loads. Unique is a great plinker powder.

4) S&W are not built as tough as Rugers despite what the fanboys will tell you. If you are planning to feed a constant diet of max loads buy a Ruger, as the locking system is much more suited to abuse.

5)You don't need Jacket bullets for hot loads. I have been using plated and gas checked just fine, and even cast lead will work with minmal leading if they are sized right, and loaded right.

6) Factory crimp on a revolver cartridge is just a roll crimp, just like comes with the seating die anyways. It is just easier to be precise.

 

[David K]

.. The modern cases are made in the same factories and of the same materials. But the similarity's, basically end there. ... The 38+P falls into the low end of 357 Magnum Velocities, but is UNSAFE to shoot in most of the older revolvers. .....When the RCMP switched to the +P ammunition all the "C' Series revolvers were immediately recalled, except, as an interim measure, the last if the "C" Series, and they were to be used ONLY Lightly, with the new ammunition. .... Unless you've a pretty good idea of what you're doing, and the Revolver is of Modern Manufacture, DO NOT PLAY WITH HOT LOADS ! And that applies to both 38 Special and 357 Magnum. Seldom is the Max Load, the most accurate, and "HOT Loads" do accelerate wear, on the Revolver and the shooter ! .... Having a "Crimp" in the right place, on the Reloads, serves to prevent the the Bullet, from moving "forward" under recoil, and jamming the cylinder against the Barrel. ...... Reloading is both fun, and SAFE, but only, if care is taken ! ....... David K

 

[H4831]

have some questions regarding the title.

1. i know a 38 is just a shorter 357, so does that mean the case is just as tough? eg. how do they handle hot loads?

2. what's the best powder for a big flash?

3. what's the best powder for hot loads?

4. are smith and wessons built tough like ruger's?

5. should jacketed be used for hot loads?

6. how important is a factory crimp die?


think that's all for now.

thanks for the help.

1) Cases are just as tough and often used for full power 357 looads.

2) don't know, not my type of thing.

3) 2400, Win 296/Hodgdon H110 are all good.

4) No.

5) Completely unneccessary. cast bullets are fine.

6) Not important at all and not needed. These cartridges were hand loaded for nearly a hundred years before the crimp die was designed.

 

[Spawn-Inc]

i just got the S&W 586-2 (6") and shot 2 boxes of rem umc 38 158gr LRN and noticed flames out the side and front. and a box of 357 same stuff, but 127gr i believe.


am i fine with shooting factory 357mag, the gun is from 1988.


and i seem to remember reading that it's hard to tell if your loads are putting stress on the gun. meaning with say my .45 if the load is to hot the primer will flatten and scrap on the slide. anything to watch out for on the revolver?



my reason for wanting to make hot 38's is i don't want to blow this gun up and i figure a hot 38 vs a hot 357 the 38 is better.

 

['Boo]

You can load .38 Special cases as hot as .357 Mag loads (using less powder) but you run the risk of those "hot-loaded" "Magnum .38" cartridges finding there way into a light 38 Special revolver and then all hell could break loose.

The sole reason 357 Magnum cases are longer than 38 Special cases is simply so they can't be chambered in a "weak" revolver.


If you are turned on by a "big flash" buy a flare gun.

Rugers are tough but no mistake they can be broken, especially if mistreated.

 

[Spawn-Inc]

at the moment i only have the 1 revolver/38 spl. but i guess i will just stick with the magnum cases once i build up enough. and i think once the "fun" factor wears down i will stick with standard loads.

i was going to use the flares lebaron has but my range won't allow it hell they won't even let me shoot wooden bullets anymore...

thanks for the answers guys.

 

[H4831]

i just got the S&W 586-2 (6") and shot 2 boxes of rem umc 38 158gr LRN and noticed flames out the side and front. and a box of 357 same stuff, but 127gr i believe.


am i fine with shooting factory 357mag, the gun is from 1988.


and i seem to remember reading that it's hard to tell if your loads are putting stress on the gun. meaning with say my .45 if the load is to hot the primer will flatten and scrap on the slide. anything to watch out for on the revolver?



my reason for wanting to make hot 38's is i don't want to blow this gun up and i figure a hot 38 vs a hot 357 the 38 is better.

You should have no worry shooting 357 factory loads in your S & W 357 revolver.
If you are handloading, you are correct in that the shooter has no way of knowing if his reloads are getting too hot. For that reason, do not go any heavier than your loading books reccommend. Also, there are other things that raise pressure, besides more powder. So I highly reccommend that you stop a bit under full power.
Arguably, the best cast bullet designed for the 357 is the Keith design, 240 grain, approximately, semi wadcutter. If you use this bullet you may find that if you crimp the bullet in the crimping groove, the cartridge may be too long to work in your gun. I had a heavy frame 357 S & W that was like this.
There are two ways to get around the problem.
1) Use 357 brass and crimp the bullet on it's shoulder.
2) Use 38 Special brass.
With 38 brass you can crimp in the proper crimping groove.
If you measure the OAL of the two cartridges, one in 38 brass and the other one crimped differently in 357 brass, you will see that they are almost identical in length. This means the powder capacity is about identical for each.
Loaded just a bit lighter than full power, for each, should give you peace of mind in shooting them.

Edited to say you must be extremely careful to see that your 357 loads in 38 special brass, are not allowed to find their way into some 38 Special revolver, because that would certaily blow the 38 sky high. For this reason, you should use 357 brass, crimp it on the shoulder, and have less worries. After you are well experienced in reloading them, you may wish to try it by the other method.

 

[44Bore]

586/686 series Smiths are specifically designed for continual use with full power .357 mag loads. Best flash will be with Blue dot.