38/357

brybenn

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What is best for a casual shooter to buy, a 38 spl or a 357 mag if the intended purpose was to only shoot 38 spl?
I'm really liking the ruger gp100 but will only be plinking with 38s not using the 357 mag capacity. Or is it simpler to just load the 357 mag down to 38 spl loads and forget the 38spl altogether?

Has anyone ever actually had any issues shooting just 38 from their 357?
 
I like the ruger gp100 over the SW 686. Is there any others I should look at for a sa/da revolver? I see alpha proj a lot and like their looks but not sure I want a light weight alloy frame and their front blade looks to sit very high
 
I very rarely shoot 357 in my Model 19 and GP100. No real issues with 38 only other than the crud ring that tends to accumulate in the cylinders. Nothing a brass bore brush won't readily fix. Lots of folks load 357 casings to 38 spl level to eliminate the crud ring issue. I don't.

Ruger really put the run on Smith with the GP100. I like mine, but in the end I'm still a Smith guy.

M
 
What is best for a casual shooter to buy, a 38 spl or a 357 mag if the intended purpose was to only shoot 38 spl?
I'm really liking the ruger gp100 but will only be plinking with 38s not using the 357 mag capacity. Or is it simpler to just load the 357 mag down to 38 spl loads and forget the 38spl altogether?

Has anyone ever actually had any issues shooting just 38 from their 357?

You may see a small decrease in accuracy shooting Specials in the Magnum length chamber (not enough for the average shooter to notice IMO) due to some increase in bullet jump from the end of the chamber to the rifling, however the biggest issue will probably be the build-up of residue in the chambers at the case mouth level of the Special rounds which will preclude the insertion of .357 cartridges until it's cleaned out. Not a big deal and certainly not a reason to turn down a good deal on a .357. Special brass is much more plentiful, I'm sure I have a lifetime supply, and I like to keep Special loads in Special cases and Magnum loads in Magnum cases just for simplicity...
 
Since I started reloading, I only use .357 magnum cases and if I want a lighter load, I use less powder and find Titegroup gives a very nice .38 special kind of feel. Totally different even than using less H110 which us supposedly meant to be loaded closer to full strength but have shot reduced loads with no issue. I find I get the best of both worlds using Titegroup for easy loads and H110 for more oomph without messing with .38 cases. I love my revolvers and they are very accurate (S&W 627, TRR8).
 
What is best for a casual shooter to buy, a 38 spl or a 357 mag if the intended purpose was to only shoot 38 spl?
I'm really liking the ruger gp100 but will only be plinking with 38s not using the 357 mag capacity. Or is it simpler to just load the 357 mag down to 38 spl loads and forget the 38spl altogether?

Has anyone ever actually had any issues shooting just 38 from their 357?

for every 6-8 boxes of 38 spl i run through my GP100 , i run a box of 357 to keep me on my toes., , love that revolver, i may get others but would take a higher then retail offer to get me to part with my GP100
 
What is best for a casual shooter to buy, a 38 spl or a 357 mag if the intended purpose was to only shoot 38 spl?
I'm really liking the ruger gp100 but will only be plinking with 38s not using the 357 mag capacity. Or is it simpler to just load the 357 mag down to 38 spl loads and forget the 38spl altogether?

Has anyone ever actually had any issues shooting just 38 from their 357?

No issues to speak of in shooting 38spl in a 357 gun. I have 2 Ruger vaquero's SAO that I have shot thousand of rounds of 38spl through. After a lot of rounds you will get a minor burn ring in the cyclinders if you use 38spl exclusively but it is not really an issue and can easily be solved by shooting the odd box of 357 if you want to. I have never bothered
 
I shoot mostly 38spl in my GP-100 as I use the gun in IDPA. I also shoot quite a bit of .357mag. I couldn`t tell you there is a difference in accuracy. Both cartridges shoot equally well. I did go and buy a used Model 10 and love the gun. Great shooter and deadly accurate out to 25 yards using 158 gr bullets, either RN or LSWC.

The GP-100 is a great revolver and you really cannot go wrong with it. The gun will last you a lifetime and then some. My Model 10 is over 40 years old and is as tight as the the day it was made so I guess the same can be said for it. The used Model 10 should go for less than a GP-100.

Take Care

Bob
 
I know you said Ruger over the Smith , but if you only plan to shot .38spl , have you looked at the S&W model 10 , they come up on the EE for a good price .

I have and I hear and read they are amazing guns I'm just not a fan of how it looks. I really like the look of the full length metal under the barrel like the ruger gp100 has.
 
Sounds as if I keep the cylinders clean the build up won't cause any concerns. That's great news. I think that will be a Xmas or birthday gift for myself

You won't notice the crud ring until you attempt to chamber a 357 after shooting a box or two of 38spl.

Give the chambers a good wire brushing after every range visit and you will be fine.

M
 
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You won't notice the crud ring until you attempt to chamber a 357 after shooting a box or two of 38spl.

Give the chambers a good wire brushing after every range visit and you will be fine.

M

You must be shooting lead or a really dirty powder to get that kind of build up in 2 boxes.
Only time I've really had any trouble was with HS-6 at 38 special load levels' and that was fouling that bound the cylinder.
Cleaning the cylinder/chamber with a brush works but a 357 case with some notches filed on the end and a bolt for a handle is even quicker.
 
Of all my revolvers I think I like shooting my 1950's era K-38 as well as any. I have several .357's (S&W 19,27, Colt 3-5-7, Trooper MK V, Python) and I'd say I shoot .38 in them 10x as often as .357 with no ill effects.
 
You must be shooting lead or a really dirty powder to get that kind of build up in 2 boxes.
Only time I've really had any trouble was with HS-6 at 38 special load levels' and that was fouling that bound the cylinder.
Cleaning the cylinder/chamber with a brush works but a 357 case with some notches filed on the end and a bolt for a handle is even quicker.

Ya, W231 and lead. Some Wolf lead remanu stuff as well. Really dirty stuff. Hands are filthy after a Steel match.

1-2 boxes may have been a bit of an exaggeration.

M
 
I use the ruger gp100 4.2" exclusively for hot .357 magnum reloads. I load light target .38 special for my older smiths.
 
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