I'm a bigger S&W fan than a Ruger fan. But you won't go wrong with a GP100. And if the full under lug look is what you like then that is what you should buy. But you DO realize that most of the 686's are also full underlug, right?
There's a difference between the Ruger and S&W trigger too. The Ruger has a noticeable "click" felt through the trigger when it releases the cylinder stop. That occurs just before the trigger break. Being more of a S&W shooter I find this click somewhat disconcerting as now I'm "warned" that the gun is going to go BANG! instead of it being a total surprise like I prefer. And for some it's an excuse to stage the trigger and then snap off the release when they think they are on target. It's been my observation that those which do this tend to produce more open groupings than they would if they smoothly pulled the trigger fully through the whole movement. So if you go Ruger try not to be a "stager". Your groups will thank you.
If you are a reloader you COULD just buy .357Mag brass and load it to whatever power level you prefer up to and including magnum loads. But generally it's easier to find .38Spl brass for less money and with more frequency.
A .40Cal bronse brush on a short extension mounted in a hand drill makes short work of the carbon ring left by .38Spl length casings. Use a good carbon solvent with the brush. I use Hoppes. It's OK but I suspect there are better options. The rotary turning is hard on the brushes. But I find I can get 5 or 6 cleanings from a .40Cal brush before it's mutilated too much to use well. A short steel rod extension allows me to use some side force on the brush as it becomes messed up and doesn't provide good wall pressure at around the third cleaning session.
Post pictures when it arrives in a suitable gun gloat.
There's a difference between the Ruger and S&W trigger too. The Ruger has a noticeable "click" felt through the trigger when it releases the cylinder stop. That occurs just before the trigger break. Being more of a S&W shooter I find this click somewhat disconcerting as now I'm "warned" that the gun is going to go BANG! instead of it being a total surprise like I prefer. And for some it's an excuse to stage the trigger and then snap off the release when they think they are on target. It's been my observation that those which do this tend to produce more open groupings than they would if they smoothly pulled the trigger fully through the whole movement. So if you go Ruger try not to be a "stager". Your groups will thank you.
If you are a reloader you COULD just buy .357Mag brass and load it to whatever power level you prefer up to and including magnum loads. But generally it's easier to find .38Spl brass for less money and with more frequency.
A .40Cal bronse brush on a short extension mounted in a hand drill makes short work of the carbon ring left by .38Spl length casings. Use a good carbon solvent with the brush. I use Hoppes. It's OK but I suspect there are better options. The rotary turning is hard on the brushes. But I find I can get 5 or 6 cleanings from a .40Cal brush before it's mutilated too much to use well. A short steel rod extension allows me to use some side force on the brush as it becomes messed up and doesn't provide good wall pressure at around the third cleaning session.
Post pictures when it arrives in a suitable gun gloat.
