38 55, too many options.

Greg S

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I just bought a 38-55 and now find so many possibilities for loading. It depends on the gun, apparently, for what pressures it will take and what bullet diameters. Is is a low pressure or does it take some sort of higher pressure for some newer guns. Is pre WW II old and low pressure and 1970's 1980's new and high pressure? What is the pressure for this rifle? This unit is from about 1980 so is fairly new in my mind, a Winchester 94. What reloading data would I use? The data I've found so far is for about 25,000 CUP. Is that for WW II era guns or modern ones?
 
I have a Legendary Frontiersman M94 in 38-55 [Built in 1979]

You can load these up to be potent packages.

In slugging mine, I found that groove diameter is at .3765 or so. So I shoot cast at .379/.380.
I have a Lyman Gas check cast bullet that weighs 380 grains as cast with gas check on, and I can drive it to 1800 fps in my rifle with no signs of excess pressure.

I also use the Barnes original Jacketed .377" bullet for a hunting load, and can get similar velocities with it. I like H322, but IMR 3031 works well also.

For lighter loads I use RL7, IMR 4198, H4198 or Norma 200. [240 grain, plain base cast]

Regards, Dave
 
For .38-55 your rifle is most certainly considered "modern". As such it will use the short version of the .38-55 cases and it will want to use a .379 jacketed or .379 to .380 cast bullet.

You'll also find that the Lee .38-55 dies are intended for the early "smaller" diameter bullets used in the early single shot rifles. For the later .38-55 that uses bullets up around .380 I would suggest some other brand. But my rifles are all chambered and barreled for the older generation recipe so the Lee dies work for me. Sorry but I can't suggest an alternate for the newer and "fatter" ammo dies.

ALL generations of .38-55 are lower pressure compared to modern stuff. Even if you shoot jacketed respect this and don't load hot. The data you find will reflect this limit. And even though a .375Win will load in the rifle I would strongly suggest that it's not a good idea to shoot them.

A "modern" load level .38-55 will feel and perform very much like it's close cousin the .30-30 for closer in hunting.

And yes, the options and changes do make it a very confusing cartridge to love....
 
The old CIL .38-55 load of a 255 gr Jacketed bullet at 1600 fps which produced 1065 ft lbs of energy at 100 yds was a real whitetail killer.
This load can easily be achieved (or bettered) with either cast or jacketed bullets at low pressure.

For instance, the Lee Second Edition manual gives a load of 26.5 grs of Reloder 7 with a 255 gr jacketed bullet. Velocity = 1725 fps with a pressure of just 26000 CUP.

27 grs of H322 with a 250 gr lead bullet gives 1692 fps with a pressure of 27600 CUP.

24 grs of H4198 with a 250 gr lead bullet gives 1740 fps with a pressure of 26200 CUP.
 
I have a Legendary Frontiersman M94 in 38-55 [Built in 1979] ... Dave

That's the one! It was bought new in '81 by the previous owner.

What do I look for when buying new bullets to differentiate between new, old, small and large 38.55 in a jacketed bullet. I don't think I want to go with cast lead. I tried a box of that in my 30/30's and spent more time cleaning the bore afterward than the time I spent at the range.
 
Most leading is caused by Ill fitting bullets or by driving them too fast.

I think 1800 fps is about max without gas checks. You also really need to clean the rifle thoroughly before switching from jacketed to lead.
 
Most leading is caused by Ill fitting bullets or by driving them too fast.

I think 1800 fps is about max without gas checks. You also really need to clean the rifle thoroughly before switching from jacketed to lead.

With the right size cast lead I've had NO leading despite shooing literally thousands of rounds of mid power .38Spl loads. So yeah, what Yomomma said. Pick the right size and they can shoot fine up to a reasonable max speed.

From my shooting and mostly from the reading I feel 1800fps is probably pushing it unless the lead alloy is just right and the size is just right. And in .30-30 unless you're shooting a reduced velocity load it simply WILL lead up. Which is likely what you got with that other gun.

If you can find the right size soft lead round ball or split sinker you can slug the bore and measure the groove diameter. Just use a plastic mallet and pound the ball or sinker down the muzzle. When it's mostly in switch to a piece of close fitting dowel to finish it. them push it through and out the other end with a cleaning rod and measure the groove diameter. Ideally you'd want a cast bullet that is .001 to .002 larger than the groove diameter. For jacketed you pretty much want the same size to .001 under.
 
HI; Forget all the stuff about older 38/55 or Marlins. What you have will suit the newer Winchester brass shorter length and the smaller bullets .377 or close to it.
 
I have a Legendary Frontiersman M94 in 38-55 [Built in 1979]

You can load these up to be potent packages.

In slugging mine, I found that groove diameter is at .3765 or so. So I shoot cast at .379/.380.
I have a Lyman Gas check cast bullet that weighs 380 grains as cast with gas check on, and I can drive it to 1800 fps in my rifle with no signs of excess pressure.

I also use the Barnes original Jacketed .377" bullet for a hunting load, and can get similar velocities with it. I like H322, but IMR 3031 works well also.

For lighter loads I use RL7, IMR 4198, H4198 or Norma 200. [240 grain, plain base cast]

Regards, Dave

380 gr is very heavy for a 38-55 bullet. 280 gr is about the heaviest I've seen.
 
Congrats on your new 38-55.....I hope you have better luck than me finding something that works.
My old Win 94 slugs @ .381 but haven't had luck finding a 'fat' cast boolit that will chamber with the old CIL brass I have....the quest continues.
Gonna try dead soft Pb PC cast next....
 
The Legendary Frontiersman I owned slugged at .379 but the chamber was so tight nothing bigger than .376 would chamber (recent manuf. W.W. brass)...groups were atrocious, 3" at best.

To the OP, you seem to be new at the reloading old cartridges game. Even tho you say you want to use jacketed bullets, I would suggest you find a copy of the Lyman Cast Bullet manual and read all the chapters before the loading recipes... you will have a far better understanding of what the boys are telling you.

Personally I have found the .38 bore cartridge (38-55, 38-56) guns to be the most challenging of all old guns to get to shoot well.
 
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