.38 rimfire loads

wbaad

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Hi,
Does anybody have any load data for .38 rimfire using unique smokeless? I know it was originally black powder, but BP is not available and I would like to test out my pistol. Any other methods available?
Thanks
 
First is your gun a iron or brass framed gun?. Are the cylinder walls decently thick?

I would probably not go over 2-2.5gr of unique in a .38RF and depending on the gun that might be too much.

Don't take that as set in stone though, I have seen some with rachet indents and stretched frames from smokeless.
 
i have the offset .22 brass i ordered from hc collections in france. i see some people have had success with hilti caps. My problem is availability of bp and pyrodex is nil, and wasn't able to get any last 2 times I was in Edmonton.
 
There's a reason you can't find load data for a rimfire.
"...hilti caps...." Those aren't made to shoot out of any firearm.
 
i have the offset .22 brass i ordered from hc collections in france. i see some people have had success with hilti caps. My problem is availability of bp and pyrodex is nil, and wasn't able to get any last 2 times I was in Edmonton.

yeah never use hilti caps in .38 rimfire unless you take the powder out and cut them down to bb cap size .22 acorn blanks are what you are looking for they are used to train dogs and in small flare guns. you are most likely going to have to order BP or pyrodex

if you are having trouble finding BP you will also find out you need a heel based bullet witch is not easy to get
 
.. is there anywhere in Canada I can purchase the offset brass for .32 & .38 rim fire? ..or for the rounds themselves? (newly/recent manufactured)

Thnx
 
.. is there anywhere in Canada I can purchase the offset brass for .32 & .38 rim fire? ..or for the rounds themselves? (newly/recent manufactured)

Thnx

no but .32 can be made for .32 short colt dilled out for .27 ramset blanks no off set needed i still pull the powder and cut them a bit and use black powder http://32rimfire.########.ca/

there is no new ammo other then some made in the 90's that's is a little too hot for most guns
 
Heyy, Thanks Allot guys Much Appreciated! Going to take a look through now, I haven't ventured into reloading yet.. But it's on my xmas list to start getting set up!

Cheerz .. ~
 
I finally got some pyrodex! Am I correct that the entire case is filled with powder and mildly compressed? Would have to load through the primer hole as is the nature of this cartridge.
 
Before you go unloading and cutting down your Hilti caps, keep in mind that the priming compound probably coats at least 1/2 of the shell. I know that it certainly does with 22 long rifle shells. I would consider it fairly risky trying to remove the powder from a Hilti cap and don't see the need to shorten them; you can punch out the fired case fairly easily. I also don't agree that you need to unload the caps in the first place. It would not surprise me if a loaded cap in an offset case might be adequate for plinking, without any powder added to the case
If flying in black powder is a problem, check on Trail Boss and see if it can be flown in. I think most or all of the smokeless powders would be fairly risky in an antique rimfire case. If you do use it, I would use it sparingly and put a pinch of drier lint on top of the powder to keep it close to the primer. Without something to keep the powder close to the primer, I think you will get highly variable pressures

cheers mooncoon
 
I am using pyrodex Bp substitute, not smokeless. I'm using .22 short cases as primer and nothing more. I'm just trying to confirm the case gets filled right up with powder ie no air space.
 
Before you go unloading and cutting down your Hilti caps, keep in mind that the priming compound probably coats at least 1/2 of the shell. I know that it certainly does with 22 long rifle shells. I would consider it fairly risky trying to remove the powder from a Hilti cap and don't see the need to shorten them; you can punch out the fired case fairly easily. I also don't agree that you need to unload the caps in the first place. It would not surprise me if a loaded cap in an offset case might be adequate for plinking, without any powder added to the case
If flying in black powder is a problem, check on Trail Boss and see if it can be flown in. I think most or all of the smokeless powders would be fairly risky in an antique rimfire case. If you do use it, I would use it sparingly and put a pinch of drier lint on top of the powder to keep it close to the primer. Without something to keep the powder close to the primer, I think you will get highly variable pressures

cheers mooncoon

I've cut down plenty of .22 hilti blanks down to about the length of a bb cap you got to watch out for the priming compound yes but if you uncramp the case a dump the smokeless you will find out where the compound is
 
Pyrodex that stuff is scary #### i have almost a full can i wont use it anymore in any of my antiques.
I had some 45 schofield loads of that stuff and it was so hot the primers flowed like lava lucky it was in a soild frame RIC that was a HD gun i could tell they were hot loads by the recoil to they were harder to extract the cases than any smokeless load i ever used which tells you alot.
Maby i got a extra hot can of pyrodex i dont know , but the stuff was not fun to use.

You have to watch the bullets in the other chambers dont move forward from the recoil because then you will get air spaces and then the presure can really spike a good crimp will help but any reloadable rf kits i seen dont exactly do great crimp jobs. I had that happen to with bullets moveing forward . i didnt notice the bullets were moveing ahead with each shot by the time i got to the thrid round i noticed the heavyer recoil then when i tryed to extract them cases the last couple were way harder to extract.
I used it for a few cylinders full back when i first got into antiques then that was it for me and pyrodex the stuff was a mess to clean up to.
I dont want to rain on your parade, You might be ok in a 38 rf case tho just dont compress it to much when you seat the bullet and yes no air spaces.
Id feel safer with a light unique load and mooncoons idea with the dryer lint rather than a pyrodex load myself. thats just from my limited pyrodex experience.
Let us know what happens.
 
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I have been using Alliant Black MZ black powder substitute in my 32 rimfire. They say it's virtually non corrosive and seems to go off as well as my fff black. With a cut down 27 cal Ramset. Filled to the top with a little crush on the MZ.

To open the Ramset I put an awl in a drill press with a hockey puck on this he table. That way I can control how far I go in to the crimp. Works slick.
 
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I use Trail Boss in my .32 loads.

Green Hiltis with a round ball seem A-Ok in both my revolver & Stevens.

I also have some heeled bullets from Jethunter that I've shot a bit but need to work up a proper load for. The loads that worked, worked well (accurate and quiet).

Red Hiltis + (or if using a heeled bullet) I open them up with a screw & dump the powder, leaving them in the plastic "tray" I get them in to use as a primer only with Trail Boss. Some folks don't like TB, I do - I have lots of experience & research with it so that is ENTIRELY my opinion and YMMV; don't "follow the herd" unless you're confident. I don't like BP in these cartridges because I fail to see how I can guarantee there is not an airspace. Again, my opinion & YMMV. After dumping the powder, I simply cut off to the end of the hilti to the extent of the plastic retainer, clean them up & use them in the .32 Short Colt brass. Works slick. I'm away from home or could toss up some photos.

The priming compound in the Hilti brands does not (in the ones I have opened) extend very far up the sides of the case. Wear your PPE but no "Ka-booms" here (yet). Remember, they are your fingers & your "neighbours" (that's a defined term ;)) at the range. Act accordingly.

Good luck
 
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