.38 special issues

johnnyreb65

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just started loading .38 spl for my S&W 686..I noticed that the completed shells are very loose in the cylinders to the point that if I rock the revolver front to back the shells move as well. As far as I can tell the shell in the firing postion is secure, it's just the other 5...I'm pretty sure this isn't normal..What am I doing wrong,,sizing die ( Lee) set wrong?
 
Seems normal to me. The recoil shield/cylinder clearance should allow some fore and aft movement for the 5 cartridges, to prevent cylinder binding. The cartridge in the barrel-aligned chamber should still have some clearance called head space, but should never be so tight so as to cause the cylinder to bind with the slightest dirt, or lead/powder residue. All cylinders have end-play (fore and aft) as well, for reliability.

Shoot up your reloads and please come back with a range report.
 
Thanks for the reply..I found some factory .357 and it moved around as well, I mustn've noticed it before until I used the cylinders as a case gauge when setting up the dies..I'm pushing AIM 158 gr copper wash bullets with 3.5gr of Bullseye...will let you know how it works out.
 
Be very careful when crimping on the 357 with plated bullets. Too much crimp will result in cutting thru the plated surface and you getting little pieces of copper blowing out the cylinder gap. A new reloader would have no idea as to the cause and would think the timing on the gun is at fault. It is frustrating, stings a bit and is usually a bit bloody so make sure you know what you are doing first.
dB
 
.38 SPL rounds in a revolver headspace on the rim. Therefore, when the firing pin strikes, it will first force the round forward until the rim stops further forward motion, and then the primer cup will compress, and give ignition. Were the rounds not "loose" in the cylinder, you would have Hobb's own time speedloading the beast! Rounds should drop in, so they will be loose and rattle.
 
Be very careful when crimping on the 357 with plated bullets. Too much crimp will result in cutting thru the plated surface and you getting little pieces of copper blowing out the cylinder gap. A new reloader would have no idea as to the cause and would think the timing on the gun is at fault. It is frustrating, stings a bit and is usually a bit bloody so make sure you know what you are doing first.
dB
Too true. That's one piece of advice I wish I'd heard or read before finding out for myself. I had a piece of copper shrapnel hit me near the eye, and found some more wedged between the barrel and the frame... Since then I only use true jacketed bullets with the slower-burning powders and keep CMJs for lighter (uncrimped) loads.
 
Be very careful when crimping on the 357 with plated bullets. Too much crimp will result in cutting thru the plated surface and you getting little pieces of copper blowing out the cylinder gap. A new reloader would have no idea as to the cause and would think the timing on the gun is at fault. It is frustrating, stings a bit and is usually a bit bloody so make sure you know what you are doing first.
dB

Yup..the Aim representative said that a factory crimp is ok..HOWEVER since there's no cannelure if you don't have a factory crimp then roll crimp just enough to eliminate the seating bell.
 
.38 SPL rounds in a revolver headspace on the rim. Therefore, when the firing pin strikes, it will first force the round forward until the rim stops further forward motion, and then the primer cup will compress, and give ignition. Were the rounds not "loose" in the cylinder, you would have Hobb's own time speedloading the beast! Rounds should drop in, so they will be loose and rattle.

Thanks,,I've come to understand it's normal..I just find it odd that when elevating the barrel you hear all the rounds clink around...
 
You might also have noticed that a handloaded straight wall revolver cartridge is slightly hour glass shaped, as the web prevents that portion of the case from fully resizing and the bullet expands the case walls to the depth it is seated.
 
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