.38 Special

OverUnder725

OverUnder725

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So I took a quick browse through the E.E. this afternoon and next thing you know I bought a very nice S&W 19-4. Now, while I wait for all the red tape, I need to start looking at getting some reloading supplies together. I have Bullseye and 700-X that I can use but from what I have read, Bullseye seems to be the more popular of the two. As far as bullets, what are profile are you using?
 
158 grain lwsc- the classic load - seems to me it was 3.5-3.8 of bullseye- but you would check a reloading manual first instead of trusting a internet voice- lead semi wad cutter- lwsc- or lwc- lead wad cutter- you don't need jacketed as your bullets aren't going fast enough-depends if you like a "nose " on your bullet
 
148gr semi hard Cast WC, 2.9 Bullseye. and 148gr pure lead 2.6 Bullseye(This Is a deadly load if you cast and great way to use the pure lead, But so much fun I find I cannot reload as many as I want to shoot on an outing)
 
OverUnder725 said:
Thanks very much for the great information. Now, where to shop, likely something I will have to source online. Who have you had the best pricing and dealings with?
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148gr HBWC (speer's mostly) with 2.8gr of bullseye. far more accurate then i will ever be.

I like Budget Shooter Supply, site sponsor and an absolute gentleman to deal with!
 
silverfoxdj said:
148gr HBWC with Bullseye works great in both of my 38 cal pistols One Smith & one Ruger
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That is good advice but some revolvers don't like wadcutter bullets. Keep your loads close to minimum at first and carefully work them up if you feel it is needed. Wadcutters are meant for target purposes and don't really need to be hot. They have much longer bearing surfaces than other bullet shapes and that can cause pressures to rise. Measure the exit holes in your cylinders to check how tight they are as well. This can make a huge difference to accuracy with any bullet.

Now would be a good time to get into casting your own as well. Shooting the 38/357 with cast bullets made from scrounged component material can bring costs down to less than 10 cents per round.
 
bearhunter said:
That is good advice but some revolvers don't like wadcutter bullets. Keep your loads close to minimum at first and carefully work them up if you feel it is needed. Wadcutters are meant for target purposes and don't really need to be hot. They have much longer bearing surfaces than other bullet shapes and that can cause pressures to rise. Measure the exit holes in your cylinders to check how tight they are as well. This can make a huge difference to accuracy with any bullet.

Now would be a good time to get into casting your own as well. Shooting the 38/357 with cast bullets made from scrounged component material can bring costs down to less than 10 cents per round.
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I have all the gear for casting 9mm and a fair stock of materials but had some trouble with leading in my 1911 that I never did get resolved. I'm not sure if it was the lube I was using or what but I'm not sure if I am really into doing it anymore. I suppose for the price of a mold I could give it a go for the .357.
 
Yah casting is a love/science but at the price point I love to go a blast 500 in a afternoon and the wallet is not empty. Yah lube does play a big part and really like every gun there is no right or wrong its just trying different lubes and see what the gun likes. A good place to start is the lee tumble lube, A lot of people go to light with lube in my opinion, start with lots on but not so much they are tacky after a little waxy is ok. There are lots of recipes out there but, all they are is watering the Alox down so it is not tacky at the end. Only disadvantage is if there is too much lube the gun will burn the extra lube and leave a light stick carbon really easy to clean with hops, in comparison to leading in the barrel.
 
u don't say where u are- I get my bullets out of some guy in sask that sells out of the back of his truck- shipping would be prohibitive for lead is u were to ship from b/c to Ontario or back to uncivilised east
 
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