38spl/357mag/44spl/44mag Case Gages really needed?

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luckey

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Hi,

for reloading, I am going to buy the gages for 9mm/40S&W/45ACP as I don't want to take out the well cleaned and oiled barrel out just to measure the cartridges. the question is that do I really need these gages for the revolver rounds as listed in the subject line? I assume I can just put them in the cyclinder, and as long as it fits well and the same as the factory or commerical reload bullet, I would be fine. Did I miss something, or otherwise why these gages are made? Thanks
 
Use your perfectly clean barrel; the same one they are going down range through. The only true test, if you are using lead bullets keep a brass brush handy to clean the chamber periodically.
 
Hickstick has the answer, a waste of money to buy them!
The 38Sp./357 and the 44/44 mag cases will never need to be trimmed. They will all wear out by getting cracks at the mouth, the more you enlarge the mouth to get a lead bullet seated, the faster the case will wear out.
And while we're at it, you can shoot 38 Special cases in your 357 with no harm to anything. Usually just a an oily clothe through the cylinder chambers will clean them out like new.
 
Luckey: This might help answer your question. Assuming the revolver is clean and mechanically sound, there are really only two conditions that may jam up a revolver. First: a too-high primer that jams against the recoil shield and stops the cylinder from rotating. Second: a cartridge with too long an overall length. In this case, the bullet nose protrudes beyond the cylinder mouth. The too-long bullet jams against the revolver's frame and likewise stops the cylinder from rotating.

Both of these conditions are easy to avoid, if care is taken while reloading. If a protruding primer, simply gently reseat it again. You'll likely notice it right away when using your Dillon RL550B, as the shell plate will jam and won't rotate to the next position. To avoid a too-long cartridge, always make sure your cartridges are loaded to the proper length, for the bullet you are loading. This is easy to check when first setting up your bullet seating die, by measuring the cartridges with a vernier. Your loading manual should have the proper cartridge lengths listed along with the rest of the load data. So, as long as you stick to the published data, you will be fine.
 
Alex McK said:
Luckey:
To avoid a too-long cartridge, always make sure your cartridges are loaded to the proper length, for the bullet you are loading. This is easy to check when first setting up your bullet seating die, by measuring the cartridges with a vernier. Your loading manual should have the proper cartridge lengths listed along with the rest of the load data. So, as long as you stick to the published data, you will be fine.
Click to expand...

The only problem with this theory is the loading companies do not know what revolver you will be shooting the cartridges in!
With the very popular Keith designed bullet for the 357 Magnum, is if it is seated so it is crimped on the proper crimping groove, it is too long to work in many revolvers, including the S&W 357 and a Colt Python, as examples.
One must always check, to see if the reloaded ammo will fit the gun it is going to be fired in.
 
Quite so! There are exceptions to every rule. Especially in the reloading game. Thanks for pointing that out. One of those obvious things that people who have reloaded for a while would know and take for granted, but not necessarily someone new to the game.
 
I've had 38-357-44 brass lengthen, because of heavy crimp, or the local weather, who knows... I then had huge variations of crimps between the cases who stayed put and the "growing" ones.
Auto cases don't seem to be affected.
 
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