4.2 or 6 inch Revolver?
- Thread starter rkm456
- Start date
I have two Smith & Wesson Model 25-5s. One with a four inch barrel and the other with the six inch barrel, honestly, I don't notice any difference between the two on the line. Recoil is pretty much on par and accuracy is too, I'm not that great of a shot any way. so get which ever one you like the looks and feel of.
I've got some of both lengths. For competitions involving drawing from a holster the shorter barrels works better. For target shooting, general plinking and competitions not requiring holster draws the 6 works out just fine.
Some might say the longer barrels are nose heavy. But between the 4.2 and 6 inch you would need to heft one directly after the other and switch back and forth a few times to really notice. Shoot one on one day and the other a few days later and you cant even tell the difference in barrel weight.
Now the 8 3/8 S&W barrels are another story. Those can be quite heavy feeling and you REALLY notice it right out of the gate. They are not difficult to hold but you notice that it's more nose heavy.
Some might say the longer barrels are nose heavy. But between the 4.2 and 6 inch you would need to heft one directly after the other and switch back and forth a few times to really notice. Shoot one on one day and the other a few days later and you cant even tell the difference in barrel weight.
Now the 8 3/8 S&W barrels are another story. Those can be quite heavy feeling and you REALLY notice it right out of the gate. They are not difficult to hold but you notice that it's more nose heavy.
easyrider604
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With regard to aesthetics and balance, I prefer 4.2 barrelled revolvers.
Unfortunately, I couldn't shoot my 4.2 GP100 as accurate as my 6 inch. Not even close. It's most probably due to its short sight radius. So I traded that one off.
My 686 6 incher wears a red dot scope so feels better balanced. It doesn't need the longer barrel for better sight radius, but it's better for slightly faster bullet velocity. And I'd still have the long radius if I decide to remove the red dot.
I have a 4.5 inch Alpha Project 9mm though, and that will probably stay a long time. Regardless of how well or bad I can shoot it.
Unfortunately, I couldn't shoot my 4.2 GP100 as accurate as my 6 inch. Not even close. It's most probably due to its short sight radius. So I traded that one off.
My 686 6 incher wears a red dot scope so feels better balanced. It doesn't need the longer barrel for better sight radius, but it's better for slightly faster bullet velocity. And I'd still have the long radius if I decide to remove the red dot.
I have a 4.5 inch Alpha Project 9mm though, and that will probably stay a long time. Regardless of how well or bad I can shoot it.
Agree with many opinions, but it is personal. I wonder, if larger calibers would be better suited with longer barrels for accuracy and recoil sake?
S&W K22 6"
Model 14 6"
Model 19 6"
Model 986 5"
Ruger Redhawk 45ACP/45 Colt 4.2"
Uberti Open Top Late Model 38 Special 7.5"
S&W K22 6"
Model 14 6"
Model 19 6"
Model 986 5"
Ruger Redhawk 45ACP/45 Colt 4.2"
Uberti Open Top Late Model 38 Special 7.5"
I have both a 4.2" and 6" GP100 in .38/.357 Mag and I prefer the 4.2" though I love them both. For me, the 4.2" feels like the perfect match for this frame size and cartridge. I probably would not have the 6" if the 4.2" was available when I bought it.
Many people have expressed preference towards 5.5" and longer barrels for .44 Mag. I don't have any shorter than that so can't offer personal experience but muzzle blast/flip and recoil are often cited as detractors for the shorter ones.
Many have also stated the nicer balance of the older 6" half-under-lugged Rugers like the security six or earlier GP100s vs the newer full under lug models.
Bottom line is personal preference based on specific model and cartridge.
Many people have expressed preference towards 5.5" and longer barrels for .44 Mag. I don't have any shorter than that so can't offer personal experience but muzzle blast/flip and recoil are often cited as detractors for the shorter ones.
Many have also stated the nicer balance of the older 6" half-under-lugged Rugers like the security six or earlier GP100s vs the newer full under lug models.
Bottom line is personal preference based on specific model and cartridge.
As stated earlier, if you are going to shoot IDPA (which I highly recommend), get the 4.2".
I find the heavy barreled guns like the 686 or the GP100 a little too muzzle heavy with a 6" barrel, but the S&W 19 or half lug GP100 (Harder to find) are nicely balanced at that length.
I find the heavy barreled guns like the 686 or the GP100 a little too muzzle heavy with a 6" barrel, but the S&W 19 or half lug GP100 (Harder to find) are nicely balanced at that length.
The shorter barrel would be my choice for a number of reasons:
1. Better for drawing from a holster.
2. I find that I can shoot either about as well out to 25m.
3. Aesthetics: a 4" or 4.2" K/L Frame or GP100 subjectively looks right. Likewise, a 5" N Frame also seems to have a barrel length proportionate to the frame size.
4. Balance. The longer barrels can be front-heavy, especially the ones with full underlugs.
1. Better for drawing from a holster.
2. I find that I can shoot either about as well out to 25m.
3. Aesthetics: a 4" or 4.2" K/L Frame or GP100 subjectively looks right. Likewise, a 5" N Frame also seems to have a barrel length proportionate to the frame size.
4. Balance. The longer barrels can be front-heavy, especially the ones with full underlugs.
Generally the ~4in barrel length is ideal on a revolver for all around use.
Good balance, holsters and draws well, not too heavy and decent ballistic performance.
I've always found the sweet spot around ~5in tho......just a tad muzzle heavy, that lil extra sight radius..which does make a difference...and a lil less muzzle flip/blast with the heavier hitters.
The 1873 single actions evolved to the sweet spot for a reason...4 3/4 ~ 5 1/2 range. Ideal balance/carry/shootability with reasonable power level cartridges.
The SW N frames in 5 in are Excellent...so is a 5in L frame.
If you are trying to squeeze velocity and accuracy out of a revolver then 6~8in makes more sense...tames recoil/blast too.
That said...my 3in 44mag N frame SW roundbutt is just so damn cool to handle/look at.....and carry....but notsomuch when I pull the trigger
Good balance, holsters and draws well, not too heavy and decent ballistic performance.
I've always found the sweet spot around ~5in tho......just a tad muzzle heavy, that lil extra sight radius..which does make a difference...and a lil less muzzle flip/blast with the heavier hitters.
The 1873 single actions evolved to the sweet spot for a reason...4 3/4 ~ 5 1/2 range. Ideal balance/carry/shootability with reasonable power level cartridges.
The SW N frames in 5 in are Excellent...so is a 5in L frame.
If you are trying to squeeze velocity and accuracy out of a revolver then 6~8in makes more sense...tames recoil/blast too.
That said...my 3in 44mag N frame SW roundbutt is just so damn cool to handle/look at.....and carry....but notsomuch when I pull the trigger
ALL REVOLVERS ARE SUPPOSED TO BE 2" STUBBIES...since we can't have those, I say go as close to 2" as legally possible.
As mentioned, the Ruger 4.2" GP-100 is perfect for IDPA and fun to shoot in that sport. The 6" is not allowed under the rules. We still have a up to 6" exception for Canada only there is really no reason for it to continue with both S&W and Ruger now making 4.2: guns for the Canadian market. The 4.2" is going to always have a larger market due to the barrel length. The 6" is at a disadvantage in IDPA due to potential longer times to draw and clear a holster and the mobility factor around barricades and lastly the exemption could expire. It only applies to competitions in Canada and cannot be used in the US.
For casual shooters plinking at ranges the longer site radius/barrel length is likely only more theory than reality. Buy what you like and go play.
Take Care
Bob
For casual shooters plinking at ranges the longer site radius/barrel length is likely only more theory than reality. Buy what you like and go play.
Take Care
Bob
I've got several 4" S&Ws from .22 to .44 mag. Lately I went on a binge and bought four .357 S&W 2-1/2" snubs - two blued, one SS and one nickel plated. If I could, my 4" M29 would be a constant companion on my romps through the woods with my dogs, loaded with 200 gr .44 Spl.s, a load I can place where I want them. 240s during bear/berry season.
The .357 snubs have become my favourite guns in IDPA. They come out of a holster fast, are very concealable (not that a 4" is any different in that regard) and I find the short sight radius to be an asset rather than a detriment to acquiring a sight picture. Scoring down '0' at 20 m is no great challenge.
I don't shoot magnum loads in IDPA, just .38 Spl. Due to the short ejector rods on the snubs, they come out of the cylinder much easier. Accuracy wise, they give away nothing to my 4" M66. I shoot 158 RNFPs with a good dose of Tite Group.
The hell of it is you need 12(6) to shoot the snubs (snubbies are 2" .38 Spl.s, usually 5 shots).
The .357 snubs have become my favourite guns in IDPA. They come out of a holster fast, are very concealable (not that a 4" is any different in that regard) and I find the short sight radius to be an asset rather than a detriment to acquiring a sight picture. Scoring down '0' at 20 m is no great challenge.
I don't shoot magnum loads in IDPA, just .38 Spl. Due to the short ejector rods on the snubs, they come out of the cylinder much easier. Accuracy wise, they give away nothing to my 4" M66. I shoot 158 RNFPs with a good dose of Tite Group.
The hell of it is you need 12(6) to shoot the snubs (snubbies are 2" .38 Spl.s, usually 5 shots).
Haven't tried them past 20m. I will ere long and get back to you. I don't think it will ever be part of any IDPA COF as most of the 9mm "spray & pray" crowd would be embarrassed. As I understand the premise, IDPA is predicated on the US CCW laws and I'm told that 60% of US CCW permit holders prefer revolvers.
One of my M19 snubs came from a LEO who shot PPC with it. It has the silkiest, smoothest DA pull of all my S&Ws, tuned by someone who knew what he was doing. I think it would do well for the purpose.
I've shot in the annual Chilliwack 'Revolver Only' match with my 4" M66 and was one of very few to hit the pepper poppers in the LR stage at 50m. Piece of cake if you single action #### and shoot prone. The other guy who did well at 50m was shooting a box stock pencil barrel M10. The poppers did not fall as they were hard set to save setting up time. Wasn't really necessary due to the low number of hits.
One of my M19 snubs came from a LEO who shot PPC with it. It has the silkiest, smoothest DA pull of all my S&Ws, tuned by someone who knew what he was doing. I think it would do well for the purpose.
I've shot in the annual Chilliwack 'Revolver Only' match with my 4" M66 and was one of very few to hit the pepper poppers in the LR stage at 50m. Piece of cake if you single action #### and shoot prone. The other guy who did well at 50m was shooting a box stock pencil barrel M10. The poppers did not fall as they were hard set to save setting up time. Wasn't really necessary due to the low number of hits.
You will see stages out to 35 yards almost for certain at Sanctioned Matches and I suspect WA State will have one standard exercise out to 50 yards this year. If you are good enough for most matches barrel length at 2" vs 4.2" should not make that much difference. We have a steel drop down target requiring the leg to shot out that could present as problem. You will hit the leg but I would not always bet on the first shot. Still all for fun and whatever floats your boat.
Take Care
Bob
Take Care
Bob
That is surprising! Based on what you see/read on the Web I'd say that number would be much lower, but maybe that is a generational thing.
As far as the OP's question, I like my husband's R8(5 inch) better than my 929(6.5inch). If I was going to do it over again, I'd probably get a 627 V-Comp instead.
You didn't ask, but get blued as opposed to stainless. The 929 is not fun to clean, and I am one of those weird people who enjoy cleaning guns. The R8 is far easier to clean.
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I like my SS and nickel plated guns as they show me where to clean.
The revolver barrel length thing drives me up the wall. The cylinder length of my snubs measures 1-5/8", the barrel 2-1/2". That's a total of 4-1/8".
The barrel of an SR9 is 4.14" or there abouts. Granted, a revolver has the barrel/cylinder gap to consider where there is some gas escape, but I'm referring to overall length. A +P .8 Spl. doesn't give away much to a 9mm and it throws a 158 gr bullet.
It will be a long time before we see any local IDPA sanctioned matches. There is no interest in affiliation at this time.
Shots at 25m and beyond present a challenge for most guns and shooters, regardless of choice. Everybody shines at "close/quick/dirty" stages. Throw in a few long shots and the picture changes.
I'm old enough to remember when an IPSC match had to include 25% draw & fire exercises. The practicality of it was moot, but it proved who could really shoot. Most of us could shoot in the 'A' zone all day.
Cooper told of Jack Weaver being able to draw and hit 10" balloons at 100 yds on demand. He was shooting a 6" S&W .38 Spl., not Cooper's beloved .45 1911. Guys like Thell Reed were competitive back then with .45 SAAs.
It's amazing what 1500 rds per week in practice will do for you. He said he was "married" to his single stage press. I believe it.
The revolver barrel length thing drives me up the wall. The cylinder length of my snubs measures 1-5/8", the barrel 2-1/2". That's a total of 4-1/8".
The barrel of an SR9 is 4.14" or there abouts. Granted, a revolver has the barrel/cylinder gap to consider where there is some gas escape, but I'm referring to overall length. A +P .8 Spl. doesn't give away much to a 9mm and it throws a 158 gr bullet.
It will be a long time before we see any local IDPA sanctioned matches. There is no interest in affiliation at this time.
Shots at 25m and beyond present a challenge for most guns and shooters, regardless of choice. Everybody shines at "close/quick/dirty" stages. Throw in a few long shots and the picture changes.
I'm old enough to remember when an IPSC match had to include 25% draw & fire exercises. The practicality of it was moot, but it proved who could really shoot. Most of us could shoot in the 'A' zone all day.
Cooper told of Jack Weaver being able to draw and hit 10" balloons at 100 yds on demand. He was shooting a 6" S&W .38 Spl., not Cooper's beloved .45 1911. Guys like Thell Reed were competitive back then with .45 SAAs.
It's amazing what 1500 rds per week in practice will do for you. He said he was "married" to his single stage press. I believe it.
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