I have just bought a 40 cal Flintlock from a friend at the gunclub for $600. Its a handmade gun with a Green Mountain barrel on it. Supposed to have all the very best of parts money can buy and the workmanship is really nice as well. I suspect I have done very well but am curious to what do these guns usually sell for? This previous owner had 12 of these older black powder guns between everything he has including another 40 cal rifle in percussion also. I am new to the BP world but not to shooting at all as I have been shooting for over 50 years now. I strongely suspect I will enjoy this a lot as well.
40 cal Flintlock
- Thread starter Blueglass
- Start date
Nothing better then spending an afternoon shooting gophers with the rock-lock.
I had a 40 cal as well in a custom built "poor-mans" Kentucky long rifle. It was a tack driver and incredibly reliable lock. A 45 acp case made a great powder measure with a 0.395 ball and 0.0012" ticking for the patch. The buddies standing on the lock side of the gun quickly traded places and few a insults.
Yup, you are gonna have fun with that one!!!!!!
I had a 40 cal as well in a custom built "poor-mans" Kentucky long rifle. It was a tack driver and incredibly reliable lock. A 45 acp case made a great powder measure with a 0.395 ball and 0.0012" ticking for the patch. The buddies standing on the lock side of the gun quickly traded places and few a insults.
Yup, you are gonna have fun with that one!!!!!!
I also learned to-day that this rifle has a fully adjustable single trigger which is somewhat rare as well. To me it only adds more value and fun to this nice gun. I apologize for the lack of pics as I can take some but just can't seem to get them posted on the net. Never seem to be able to remember the sequence in doing it. To-morrow night is my big lesson loading it and away I go after that. 
Well I have now been taught how to fire this old beauty and its a ball. Should have done this years ago now instead of all the other newer style guns i have had instead. At 75 feet I was in the target 5 out of 6 shots so I feel fairly good about my 1st outing with it needless to say.
NorthCoastBigBore
CGN frequent flyer
- Location
- Northwest BC (Rural) 103-I-##
Congrats - now you're hooked. Tons of fun!
Here is a hint. Find yourself a large paper clip...the inch and a half type...straighten it out.
Before pouring the powder down the barrel...put the clip into the flash hole and close the frizzen, angle it to the butt-stock of the gun before closing the frizzen. Load as normal, (Make sure the load is FIRMLY seated, not crushed) then remove the clip, and put FFFFg in the pan...no need to fill the pan, just enough FFFFg to come to bottom of the flash hole. I should say that firmly seating the ball with compress the powder in the barrel creating a cavity around the clip inserted in the barrel
Theory; By not filling the pan you are allowing air passage into the flash hole which will draw the flame into the barrel quicker. The clip inserted in the barrel creates a channel whihc gives the flame more contact area with the main charge, thus improving ignition.
I have been using this procedure for decades on a custom built full stock Hawken and the "Poor man's" Kentucky rifle I had mentioned earlier. Ignition in these guns was fast...I stress, FAST!!!!! Both guns were match winners, and gopher rollers. The best the Hawken ever did was a 50 yard offhand target scoring 48-2x out of a possible 50-5x. Not to mention numerous 50-1x to 3X targets shot off cross-sticks. Unfortunately that offhand target took second place to the guns builder who shot a 49-2x with his personal flint-lock Hawken.
Enjoy the rock-lock!!!!!!!!
Before pouring the powder down the barrel...put the clip into the flash hole and close the frizzen, angle it to the butt-stock of the gun before closing the frizzen. Load as normal, (Make sure the load is FIRMLY seated, not crushed) then remove the clip, and put FFFFg in the pan...no need to fill the pan, just enough FFFFg to come to bottom of the flash hole. I should say that firmly seating the ball with compress the powder in the barrel creating a cavity around the clip inserted in the barrel
Theory; By not filling the pan you are allowing air passage into the flash hole which will draw the flame into the barrel quicker. The clip inserted in the barrel creates a channel whihc gives the flame more contact area with the main charge, thus improving ignition.
I have been using this procedure for decades on a custom built full stock Hawken and the "Poor man's" Kentucky rifle I had mentioned earlier. Ignition in these guns was fast...I stress, FAST!!!!! Both guns were match winners, and gopher rollers. The best the Hawken ever did was a 50 yard offhand target scoring 48-2x out of a possible 50-5x. Not to mention numerous 50-1x to 3X targets shot off cross-sticks. Unfortunately that offhand target took second place to the guns builder who shot a 49-2x with his personal flint-lock Hawken.
Enjoy the rock-lock!!!!!!!!
Thank You for the tip and I will add some of them to my patch box for sure. The Rust remover that was suggested is working really well also. Have uncovered what could be a date of build. C1858. The barrel is still floating in a wall paper pan with the end cutdown in order to fit better. Boy that stuff works fast.
