40SW in a 10mmAuto

Andronicus

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Guns are so fun. Start looking for one thing, and a bunch of new interesting things pop up.

While looking for the Gun Trifecta (handgun, PCC (black semi-auto), and lever gun all in same pistol caliber), I ran onto the idea of shooting 40S&W in a 10mmAuto gun. Turns out, 40S&W is a direct descendant of 10mm.

The 40 S&W is 3.6mm shorter than a 10mmAuto but is the same in every other way. Most commercial ammo have very similar muzzle velocities for the same bullet (e.g. American Eagle 180gr is 1030fps for 10mmAuto (5"barrel) and 1000fps for 40S&W (4"barrel); ballisticsbytheinch.com indicates this difference is likely entirely due to the barrel length). S&W actualy just cut down the length of the 10mm, eliminating excess space in the case when using typical loads. Obviously, having 3.6mm extra capacity, a 10mm custom or hand load can be made quite a bit hotter. 10mmAuto guns are built to accept this extra pressure of hotter loads and will handle the lower pressures of standard 10mmAuto or 40S&W loads just fine.

Since rimless cases are held against the bolt face by the extractor, the shorter 40S&W generally works fine in a 10mm gun. The case slips in behind the extractor, rather than with a rimmed cartridge that the extractor snaps over the cartridge rim.

This is not theoretical. I have ready reports from many shooters who regularly shoot 40S&W from their 10mmAuto handguns. This seems especially common with the Glocks 20.

There are likely exceptions to this rule, so before attempting this, do some research on your gun.

By the way, it would appear that the key to do the Trifecta is a Marlin 1894 modified by Grizzly Customs to fire 10mm (which may or maynot work with 40S&W and may or maynot be available to Canadians). 40S&W are readily available for handguns and black semi-auto PCCs.
 
I've tried it, got through one mag just fine, next mag the first round got in front of both extractors on my omega, had to push it out with a squib rod.

I might try it in a beat-up glock or a cheap 1911, but not on an Omega.
 
I've tried it, got through one mag just fine, next mag the first round got in front of both extractors on my omega, had to push it out with a squib rod.

Like I mentioned, it isn't going to necessarily work in every gun. But if you got through 1 mag fine, maybe the second mag didn't have the cartridges (or the top cartridge) seated fully back in the mag? If the rim is to high when the bolt engages it, it could be in front of the extractor and could fail to be held in place against the bolt face.
 
Worked fine in my Glock 20 however I ended up buying a 40 SW barrel as accuracy wasn't the greatest as the bullet wasn't being chambered the same being shorter. Everything else was fine.
 
I shot some factory 180 gr .40 S&W fmj in a S&W Model 1066 10mm I had at the time. Worked fine, no failures.

I had a .40 S&W barrel fitted to my Colt Delta 10mm so I could also shoot & reload .40 S&W brass [way easier to come by than 10mm brass]. Feeds from the 10mm mags fine. And now, no worries about the ctg slipping under the extractor & causing stoppages if using the factory 10mm barrel.

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NAA.
 
If you enjoyed reading up on the 10mm you'll get a kick out of the .38 calibre family story too!
 
I load 10mm in 40 cases. SP pocket handles the pressure and using 180gr I'm able to seat at full length for my chamber.
Why...... cause 10mm brass is expensive.
 
I load 10mm in 40 cases. SP pocket handles the pressure and using 180gr I'm able to seat at full length for my chamber.
Why...... cause 10mm brass is expensive.

Isn't 10mm (and 40S&W) intended to headspace on the front of the case? Full length, without the full length case kind of defeats the purpose? Have you tried handload and firing 40S&W?
 
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