Does anyone here reload .410 WSL and what do you use to do it? I've only found two threads on the entire Interwebs on it and it seems you need to re-size another case, like 7.62x49, in order to make it. Any ideas out thereon how to make some?
.410 WInchester Self Loading
- Thread starter rattus
- Start date
It's actually called the .401 Winchester self loading, obsolete since the 30s, not very effective round, bores range from .406" to .410", bullets avail. from M.T. Chambers, cases can be made from .35 Rem., I believe the rim has to be turned down or thinned as well. The whole series of Win. self loading cartridges/guns never really caught on and the .401(the largest) is the only one effective enough for deer. I heard or read somewhere that they were most popular with jail guards in the US.
I shoot it. I've made brass from 35 Rem, but prefer 414 Super Mag (I bought a bunch just to try). I think that "Buffalo Arms" sells it.
You can use cast bullets for the 41 Mag sized down as required (I go to 0.408), and H4227 is a great powder.
You can use cast bullets for the 41 Mag sized down as required (I go to 0.408), and H4227 is a great powder.
Double Post, so I may as well make use of it.
Dies can be bought from CH4D, but 41 Mag dies work just as well.
There's lots of load data out there and I've tried a pile of powders, but the best is H4227 IMO. Pretty much a full case with bullets up to 210grs, and it tops 2000 fps.
Dies can be bought from CH4D, but 41 Mag dies work just as well.
There's lots of load data out there and I've tried a pile of powders, but the best is H4227 IMO. Pretty much a full case with bullets up to 210grs, and it tops 2000 fps.
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Great advice. I just checked out Buffalo Arms and they carry the brass and bullets. Is it that easy or am I missing something? I'm not a reloader yet so I don't know if I should just order the brass and bullets and then visit my local gun shop for reloading equipment. Still, it's rather encouraging to see it is possible to get ammo for this rifle.
- Location
- Winnipeg,Man.
You may be able to find brass and bullets but may find it very difficult to find loading dies to complete the job. Custom dies from Lee are almost $200 CAN.
Ben, you state the consensus of opinion, but in the homestead days of the great depression, moose and elk were shot with almost anything that blew a bullet out the barrel. A homesteader, who later became an older sister's father in law, hunted moose with a 351 Winchester self loading.
I know this is the truth. He purchased a box of 20 cartridges for it, and by the time the box was empty, he had killed nine moose with the shells in the box! I asked him if any had gotten away, and his answer was "No." He lived about 80 miles east and a bit north of your big town.
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Wow, you guys are just a wealth of information! I just bought a Lee Loader 401 Winchester Self Loading kit online for $44 US. That isn't a problem to import form the US, is it? I'm 90% sure it's not but I don't want any trouble. I even watched a Youtube video on how to use one. Thanks again!
edit: I should specifically thank the Winnipeg Toymaker for pointing me in the right direction.
edit: I should specifically thank the Winnipeg Toymaker for pointing me in the right direction.
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I agree with you H-4831, .35 or .40 cal. and up to 2000fps should be good for most game, I just was never thrilled with Autoloaders or i might have played with one. Used .351s can be picked up for a good price and apparently can use .357 ammo.
You do need to use fast powders for the self loaders. I had a .30 self loader and no loading data. started out with a fast powder which did work in the sense of cycling the action. Decided to try a slower powder so I could keep the pressure down but get the velocity up. Bad move; small pop as the primer and some powder went off, then a pause followed by a loud bang, lots of flame out the side and a split shell. The bullet was lodged about half way up the barrel. The powder ignited and started the breach moving which dropped the pressure so the powder was only burning minimally. Then the majority of the powder went off but by now the shell was 3/4 ejected hence the flash and the split case
cheers mooncoon
cheers mooncoon
I found this on another site:
Considering this will be the first reloading I've ever done (not counting my Uncles shotgun shell loader when I was kid) would you suggest I use this recipe or do you have another idea for me?
I've seen that too, and in more than one place including, the Lyman Cast Bullet Handbook (its likely source). Their loads often seem hot to me, possibly because powder burn rates have changed, possibly because vendors are more conservative about litigation these days.
I use that same data with a 210gr Cast bullet. I recommend you do the same. H4227 works perfectly with that bullet and even a full case is below max pressure, so you have a built-in safeguard. If you must go with a heavier bullet like a 240gr or 250gr, I'd drop the powder charge by 4.0 grs.
Thanks, what I have coming is the 250 grain bullet from Buffalo Arms so that's what I'll try first. So you recommend is somewhere between 15 and 23.5 grs? Depending on cycling and what will fit in the case? Or something more specific for a safe first load? And yes, I will have the rifle examined by a gunsmith before I try anything
Don't want to disappoint you but B.A. don't ship bullets to Canada, at least of last month. Did you happen to order on line and haven't been notified of the dissappointment yet? If they are shipping now then great, for I have one hell of a list.
Their website said yes, took my address and my card that all said Canada. I mean, it' not ammo, just cases and bullets. But if they don't want to ship to Canada I'll just ship to my American Aunt and have her trans-ship. It wouldn't surprise me, though
Edited to add: You're right, and having my Aunt send the bullets wouldn't be a good idea because it appears to be a US export law stopping them. So they'll ship the brass but not the bullets. Anyone know where I can souce 200 or 250 gr bullets for this?
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