44 mag
- Thread starter strokerjoe
- Start date
You take it apart with a puller, then figure out why it didn't go boom to correct the problem. Puller example: http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=810810
- Location
- Somewhere on the Hudson Bay Coast
If the mark on the primer was very light, probably there was not enough hammer energy hitting the primer to make it go, or perhaps the primer was not seated to the bottom of the primer pocket. If there was no powder in the case generally the primer backs out of the case - the firing pin mark is very substantial, and sometimes the bullet is pushed out of the case if the crimp is not strong enough to hold the bullet in place.
PerversPépère
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Shawinigan (Quebec)
Hmmm!
DON'T remove the bullet with an impact puller when there is already a firing pin mark on the primer!
Instead, use a collet puller which will grip the bullet and make use of your press leverage to pull the bullet out.
But I think you should put that round back in your revolver ALONE and shoot it again. More trouble than anything
Now, about that revolver: did you back out the mainspring tensioning screw in an effort to "make its trigger lighter?"
Many people do that on Smiths and they get rewarded with light strikes. This is a bad practice because light strikes give you erratic primer performance and your ammo won't group like it should.
And you also risk a long fire which is bad in a wheelgun if you have already shot another one and the round goes off out of battery.
PP.
DON'T remove the bullet with an impact puller when there is already a firing pin mark on the primer!
Instead, use a collet puller which will grip the bullet and make use of your press leverage to pull the bullet out.
But I think you should put that round back in your revolver ALONE and shoot it again. More trouble than anything
Now, about that revolver: did you back out the mainspring tensioning screw in an effort to "make its trigger lighter?"
Many people do that on Smiths and they get rewarded with light strikes. This is a bad practice because light strikes give you erratic primer performance and your ammo won't group like it should.
And you also risk a long fire which is bad in a wheelgun if you have already shot another one and the round goes off out of battery.
PP.
PerversPépère is right, wait a minute before continuing firing the other rounds and then cycle it around to that round again and try it again. Just like you might do with a 22LR that doesn't go bang. Try it again.
Was this the only light hit you have had in that gun?
Acrashb's link to Midway USA will show you what you should buy as standard reloading equipment. But unless things have changed Midway won't ship to Canada. You can get a bullet puller at almost any gun store though. About $25.
PS - Welcome to CGN ! And the period is between the <,> and </> keys!
Fudd
Was this the only light hit you have had in that gun?
Acrashb's link to Midway USA will show you what you should buy as standard reloading equipment. But unless things have changed Midway won't ship to Canada. You can get a bullet puller at almost any gun store though. About $25.
PS - Welcome to CGN ! And the period is between the <,> and </> keys!
Fudd
(((Echo)))
CGN frequent flyer
- Location
- Old Man Land, AB
I would have cycled it again. If it failed on the second strike, investigate. Still a light primer strike? Turn up the mainspring pressure. Normal primer strike, dispose of it, NOW!
I wouldn't take this home and start dicking around with it. Just asking for trouble there.
(E)
I wouldn't take this home and start dicking around with it. Just asking for trouble there.
(E)
PerversPépère said:
Other than your sense of caution, is there a reason for this? Any documented instances of 'bang' when doing it this way? Because a hammer puller is the way my club takes apart 'dud' rounds left in the 'dud' round container on the handgun range - so far, after many years of this technique, no problems. If it is documented as more dangerous than other methods, we'll change the practice.
Cocked&Locked
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- S. Ontario
Just stick it back in and hit it again, sounds like the primer wasn't seated. If still dosen't fire, just toss it in the squib container all ranges have to have and go on, it's only one case, not worth your time.
and go on, it's only one case, not worth your time.Yes. Sounds like you seated it too deeply. The firing pin just couldn't quite reach out enough to give the primer a good whack. Are you using a hand priming tool? Those don't really have depth stops so it's easy to overseat the primers if you're not careful. That's why I like to use a press-mounted priming tool.strokerjoe said:
primer
i,am using LEE turret press i just got it and am new to reloading but quick to learn made 10 today went eazy on them today just felt them go in and stop and stopped right there not to over do it. THANKS. also bought the hammer tool to take bullet apart great tool 2 to 6 times and they sepparated.
i,am using LEE turret press i just got it and am new to reloading but quick to learn made 10 today went eazy on them today just felt them go in and stop and stopped right there not to over do it. THANKS. also bought the hammer tool to take bullet apart great tool 2 to 6 times and they sepparated.
Last edited:
You should try the Lee Auto-Prime II. It's the press-mounted version. It's a million times better than the built-in priming tool on the press.strokerjoe said:
Also, if you're not using a priming tool with a depth stop, you should always check the primers on your cases after you prime them. They may need an extra nudge if they're sticking out.
