bcsteve:
A couple of things.
1. With the leverevolution, once you have fired them you can always load them with my hollow point bullet that has three crimp grooves on them since the brass is smaller in length. If I remember correctly you crimp it on the lower groove and gives you more internal space and feeds ok thru your .444 marlin rifle which will be right close to suggested overall length.
2. On your cast bullet you will notice a small ridge/groove about 1/4 of the way from the meplat, that is from your seating die. I have tried it as you show there with the ridge and without and it made no difference accuracy wise.
To get rid of the ridge you take some tin foil and squish it up inside your seating die so basically you are making a cupped seating die into a flat surface. A little bit of experimenting with the correct amount of tin foil and it will sit flush in the seating die, I just put a dab of wax on the bottom of the foil to keep it stuck in there.
When you seat the big bullet the cup will no longer come in contact with the bullet and you will seat it with no marks on the outside. No biggy.
An alternate method is to take the die apart and pour lead into the cup and fill it up. Use a file to make sure there is no part sticking out of the edges or sides and that it is flat and again use a small bit of wax to hold this little wedge of lead in the end of the seating die.
I did the lead method about 2 years ago and I have no idea how many reloads I have done and it is still going strong. As long as you half way center the bullet in the case before you run it up into the die you really don't need a cup to straighten the bullet as I have found.
A couple of things.
1. With the leverevolution, once you have fired them you can always load them with my hollow point bullet that has three crimp grooves on them since the brass is smaller in length. If I remember correctly you crimp it on the lower groove and gives you more internal space and feeds ok thru your .444 marlin rifle which will be right close to suggested overall length.
2. On your cast bullet you will notice a small ridge/groove about 1/4 of the way from the meplat, that is from your seating die. I have tried it as you show there with the ridge and without and it made no difference accuracy wise.
To get rid of the ridge you take some tin foil and squish it up inside your seating die so basically you are making a cupped seating die into a flat surface. A little bit of experimenting with the correct amount of tin foil and it will sit flush in the seating die, I just put a dab of wax on the bottom of the foil to keep it stuck in there.
When you seat the big bullet the cup will no longer come in contact with the bullet and you will seat it with no marks on the outside. No biggy.
An alternate method is to take the die apart and pour lead into the cup and fill it up. Use a file to make sure there is no part sticking out of the edges or sides and that it is flat and again use a small bit of wax to hold this little wedge of lead in the end of the seating die.
I did the lead method about 2 years ago and I have no idea how many reloads I have done and it is still going strong. As long as you half way center the bullet in the case before you run it up into the die you really don't need a cup to straighten the bullet as I have found.
