45/110
- Thread starter orgrabbit
- Start date
- Location
- St. Paul AB
The twist rate on your 110 would be the same as my .45-90, and the 500 to 550 grain bullets would work the best. One of he guys I shoot with has a Shiloh Quigley model. You could start with Goex FFg maybe, and compress it (not with the bullet) no less than 0.100." The guy I know with the .45-110 is stomping the powder column down almost 0.450." You might want to try Fg as well. Picked a tough round to load for right out of the gate. Get all the reading you can on BP cartridges. Start with Paul Matthews and Mike Venturino. Check out the Shiloh forum as well.
Short Knife is right....
over at the Shiloh site look up Kenny "the lunger" Wasserburger, and "redneck" Bill Bagwell.
They will give you great info on the 45 2 7/8's.
With a beauty like that, why not shoot it LOTS?! Unless you abuse it, it will never lose its value.
That is only one of the great thing about a Shiloh, along with accuracy, timeless style, and, and, just an AWESOME rifle!
Later....
over at the Shiloh site look up Kenny "the lunger" Wasserburger, and "redneck" Bill Bagwell.
They will give you great info on the 45 2 7/8's.
With a beauty like that, why not shoot it LOTS?! Unless you abuse it, it will never lose its value.
That is only one of the great thing about a Shiloh, along with accuracy, timeless style, and, and, just an AWESOME rifle!
Later....
Before you start reloading this round, go to a plumbing supply house and get a 36" and 48" piece of straight copper tubing, 3/8" I.D. will work. Not the rolled type straightened out though...I think they call it "Rigid" tubing. Have them put a substantial flare on both ends.
Use these as drop tubes...they will drop the powder into the case consistently, far better then from the scale pan to the case. You will still need a small amount of compaction when seating the bullet, though very little...it is not the best to rely solely of bullet seating to compact the powder in the case, especially with large cases, as the powder will not compact evenly.
Another trick to try is not resize the case after firing...thoroughly clean the case, then load the powder with the drop tube and place a tight fitting felt or similar wad firmly on the powder...do not seat the bullet. If the case has not been sized or crimped the bullet should easily slip into the case and can also be easily removed...as long as you do not run the case into the seating die and put a crimp on it. Your powder charge will have to be adjusted to ensure the bullet is not deep in the case or you could use a filler to achieve this, you still have to use the wad though. I have used this technique on the 45-70 and the 45-90 with good results. I eventually went back to a re-sized and seated bullet for ease of transport.
Cheers
Use these as drop tubes...they will drop the powder into the case consistently, far better then from the scale pan to the case. You will still need a small amount of compaction when seating the bullet, though very little...it is not the best to rely solely of bullet seating to compact the powder in the case, especially with large cases, as the powder will not compact evenly.
Another trick to try is not resize the case after firing...thoroughly clean the case, then load the powder with the drop tube and place a tight fitting felt or similar wad firmly on the powder...do not seat the bullet. If the case has not been sized or crimped the bullet should easily slip into the case and can also be easily removed...as long as you do not run the case into the seating die and put a crimp on it. Your powder charge will have to be adjusted to ensure the bullet is not deep in the case or you could use a filler to achieve this, you still have to use the wad though. I have used this technique on the 45-70 and the 45-90 with good results. I eventually went back to a re-sized and seated bullet for ease of transport.
Cheers
There are two very different uses for your 45/110, long range target shooting and hunting. For long range target shooting including BPCR out to 500m. on the rams, you will need a bullet of about 525grs or more and usually somewhat pointed cast no harder then 25-1. For hunting a better choice is a bullet with a flat point, usually lighter including the excellent 340 gr. Gould hollowpoint, for an "Express" type loading. I produce(when I'm set up to) a 530gr. Hoch, a 535 gr. Saeco, a 540gr. Badger(2 dia.), and a 555gr. Creedmore, which some on this site have experience with. In my 45/100 I use 1 1/2 Fg Swiss powder, drop tubed with any of the above bullets and no airspace. All work good if you devote some range time to them.
- Location
- St. Paul AB
Oh yes. Kenny W knows all and sees all. He's not doing well at the moment, from his recent posts, he's in he hospital at the moment.
I size my cases a substantial amount and seat the bullet all the way in the case. My thinking is that if I can't take the round hunting, I'm not going to shoot matches with it. I don't pay attention to lots of the VooDoo concerning BPCR's, and my Shiloh #1 shoots into one minute day or night. Well I have to get the starlight scope mounted before I can confirm the night thing. I find that a few of the guys I shoot with have gone that way because if you drop a round with exposed grease grooves, it's more or less useless unless you like picking dirt from lube or a scored bore. Dirt is not the key to long and healthy barrel life. And in competition, can cost you time and targets.
Yes. Shoot the Shiloh often try not to bash it up. It will retain it's value. That's why I held out. A Pedersoli or Uberti once you shoot it is just a used gun. A Shiloh will always be a Shiloh. Pay me nearly new price or get out the way. Call me a snob if you will, but that's the truth. You don't realize it until you have one. C. Sharps and Axtell make damn nice rifles too.
I size my cases a substantial amount and seat the bullet all the way in the case. My thinking is that if I can't take the round hunting, I'm not going to shoot matches with it. I don't pay attention to lots of the VooDoo concerning BPCR's, and my Shiloh #1 shoots into one minute day or night. Well I have to get the starlight scope mounted before I can confirm the night thing. I find that a few of the guys I shoot with have gone that way because if you drop a round with exposed grease grooves, it's more or less useless unless you like picking dirt from lube or a scored bore. Dirt is not the key to long and healthy barrel life. And in competition, can cost you time and targets.
Yes. Shoot the Shiloh often try not to bash it up. It will retain it's value. That's why I held out. A Pedersoli or Uberti once you shoot it is just a used gun. A Shiloh will always be a Shiloh. Pay me nearly new price or get out the way. Call me a snob if you will, but that's the truth. You don't realize it until you have one. C. Sharps and Axtell make damn nice rifles too.
to echo what was said previously - use a minimum of a 24" drop tube - use a wad tight on the powder - compress the wad/powder at least a few mm when seating the bullet. Hang on for the time of your life. It's a hoot and you're going to get lots of envious questions. I load BP in 2 Sharps and a Rem RB in 45-70 and 50-70 and enjoy every outing. Read lots and make sure there is no air space left between the bullet base and the wad/powder. Some guys don't use the wad but I've found it keeps the BP from sticking to the lube on the bullet base and leaving a trail of sparks down range. Great at night 
Mike Venturino's book, "Shooting Buffalo Rifles of the Old West", has information on the 45-110. The book is available form Track of the Wolf. They have a good selection of books on shooting the old style black powder rifles, and shipping is no problem for books.
vagrantviking
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Southern Alberta
