45-70 Cast Bullets
- Thread starter Kroy
- Start date
For no gas checks the hardness of the alloy plays a large role. Using wheel weights the usual limit is 1500-1700fps. Make sure you bell the case mouth enough so that it doesn't shave the bullet as it goes in. Other than that there really isn't much different than when using gas checked bullets.
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I also never size plain base bullets. My .457" Lee mould drops .460" with wheel weights water dropped and the .459" mould drops .462". I either tumble lube or pan lube.
*edit*
I also never size plain base bullets. My .457" Lee mould drops .460" with wheel weights water dropped and the .459" mould drops .462". I either tumble lube or pan lube.
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antiqueguy
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- windsor ontario
a good fit and good bullet alloy is needed
idk why people need to drive a .45 cal bullet over 1500fps though and anyway if you did the bullet would take it no problem as you go bigger with cal cast can take more pressure hence why .50bmg molds have been made and bullets driven atleast 2500fps out of them
idk why people need to drive a .45 cal bullet over 1500fps though and anyway if you did the bullet would take it no problem as you go bigger with cal cast can take more pressure hence why .50bmg molds have been made and bullets driven atleast 2500fps out of them
Your choice to fill the remaining space with a wad or not(I use and old washed earplug). The speed you drive the bullet is also dependant on the bullet lube. Some are better than others. Barrel length is another factor. An 18 inch Marlin barrel might show no lead where as a 34 inch sharps will be well streaked with lead.
What make of gun?
What length of barrel?
Details , details.
What make of gun?
What length of barrel?
Details , details.
Johnn Peterson
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Chemainus B.C.
Don't know if this'll be of any help to you but here's some of what I go through. At one point in time I did try ear plugs but I thought I was getting some sort of a residue left behind that, after a fair amount of shooting, was a little difficult to remove. Something that I tried next, worked well but was time consuming. Shredded cotton from cotton balls. What I use now is a very porous foam material, used as sealant/caulking used for sealing gaps and openings. It's a product called Stopdrafts, a 1/2" diameter and 20' long foam Backer Rod by Tago that I purchased at Home Depot I believe. It's a filler I use in light cast bullet loads for my 45-70 and 444 Marlin. I take the case capacity/space, minus the room the powder I'm using takes up and minus the space the seated bullet takes up. Then, on a little jig I've made up, I cut the foam rod into pieces to fill the empty space or slightly less. A quick roll between thumb & forefinger and insert into the charged case above the powder. Seat the bullet and you're good to go. Quick, easy and no sign of residue left behind. About all you might notice is a slight puff of dust like material when you shoot.
Here are the cast bullets I use in my Marlin 1895GS 45-70 and in a Pedersoli Sharps.
And, some load info I base my loads on.
Some of the 44 cast bullets I use.
Cast results for my Marlin 444S
444 load info
The Uberti will have a different bullet seating length, than the others. I would say 10 - 20 thou off the lands for it. The other two have to be considerably shorter to fit the mag tube and cycle through the gun. Unless you shoot them one at a time, not using the mag tube, then they can be longer too.
My system involves depriming the case, polishing for 2 - 3 hours with no more than 100 in the polisher or they get beat up. Full length resize, clean off case lube. Reprime, flare case mouth, add powder of choice, wad or not, seat bullet to desired depth, shoot, repeat process. If after shooting a few there is signs of leading you have to change one of the variables. Lube type, paper patch, gas check, speed driven.
Then its time to venture into the black powder world. I just started using BP in my 45/70 and its way easier on my shoulder. But again its a whole new ballgame.
A fine collection of 45/70's you have there Kroy.
My system involves depriming the case, polishing for 2 - 3 hours with no more than 100 in the polisher or they get beat up. Full length resize, clean off case lube. Reprime, flare case mouth, add powder of choice, wad or not, seat bullet to desired depth, shoot, repeat process. If after shooting a few there is signs of leading you have to change one of the variables. Lube type, paper patch, gas check, speed driven.
Then its time to venture into the black powder world. I just started using BP in my 45/70 and its way easier on my shoulder. But again its a whole new ballgame.
A fine collection of 45/70's you have there Kroy.
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fit is king.
which rifle are you shooting out of?
here is what I would do if I was starting with a new to me, unknown rifle and mould.
start with making an impact cast of your chamber, into the leade and first 1/2 inch of rifling.
then slug the bore with 3 different slugs, first one, just ahead of the chamber, second one just inside the muzzle, third one run full barrel length.
take accurate measurements with a Micrometer. a Caliper simply won't be accurate enough, unless you own one of those $250 ones, with a brand name.
for an alloy, try to get some (Wheel weight+2% tin) and pure lead mixed at 50/50. Going harder only increases the chance of leading.
if your cast bullet falls out of the mould smaller in diameter than any of your three slugs, you will have an uphill battle with leading, and most likely will need a buffer of some sort. even then, you may never get away from it. Going to a harder alloy won't usually solve the problem.
Lyman moulds of newer manufacture are notorious for being too small, so be alert to that.
if you bullet drops at 0.002 or more of the groove diameter, that is best. if the bullet drops out at 0.003 larger than groove diameter, you may also consider softening up your alloy, up to about 30% (WW+2%Tin) to 70% pure lead.
start with an unsized bullet, and see if it will slip fit into a once fired case from your gun
if so, don't size. just load as is and lube without sizing, pan lube, or tumble lube.
seat that bullet so it will just chamber. (or cycle if using a bolt, pump, or Lever action
when sizing your brass, just size enough so the bullet won't slide into the case. then a slight bell, then seat. crimp is not required unless you are shooting it in a tube fed rifle, and then you need to experiment with it.
If your bullet drops large, and just slips into a fired case with very little resistance, but needs just a bit of a push with a finger, try it without sizing the case at all, just seat and a mild crimp, just enough to hold the bullet from moving.
if you do need to size down your bullet, don't size it smaller than 0.002 larger than groove diameter. if you have to go smaller for some reason, take it one very small step at a time.
If you are shooting out of a TrapDoor Springer, I understand they are completely different, with large diameter groove measurements, and tight chambers so you have to start with an undersized bullet. in those cases, a hollowbased bullet has been the best.
Remember, the bullet has to be larger than the groove diameter, and will size down easily one fired. the only concern is if it will chamber without resistance once loaded. in other words, use the fattest bullet you can that will still chamber.
consider getting yourself a Lyman M die for the 45/70. the shape of the plug will help you seat without damaging the base, which is Most important for accuracy.
now for a load, do some research to find one that puts you at Trap Door levels
I have read A 405gr bullet with somewhere below about 39gr of 3031 is supposed to be equivalent to the old Trapdoor black powder load and is usually accurate in any rifle, but am not able to confirm that at this time.
loading hotter won't gain you much
remember, most of the buffalo were killed with that TD load level.
the above is just my opinion, and YMMV.
