45 ACP newb reloading question

ProdigyS10

ProdigyS10

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i've done a search and not been able to find what i'm looking for answer wise, figure i'd ask.

got the stuff to reload on my own the other week and had a friend who's experienced at reloading rifle rounds come show me the ropes (i've read and watched videos but wanted to be sure i was doing things right)

so we loaded some 45ACP with 4.3,4.6,4.8 and 5.0 grains of HP38, with 230 grain lead wolf bullets..the dyes said the max overall length was 1.275 so we went just under that.... got to the range (didn't want to try loading them in the gun at home since i'm paranoid) and loaded them up. they all had issues feeding. and when you let the slide go forward on my 1911 it'd not quiet go the whole way forward, couldn't engage the safety and couldn't slide it back by hand, had to get some force on it to get it to release and then was fine. i measured my snap caps that cycle just fine and they were 1.205" long and talked to a friend who said his manual tells him a max overall length of 1.190"

i made up some empty rounds and kept pressing them until they started feeding right in my pistol, around 1.225" mark. so at this point i'm somewhat uncertain and figured i should ask a group of people with experience for advice. i don't want to just pick a length since if i go to short that would increase pressures and possibly be dangerous.

i ruled out that the bullets were pushing the brass to wide since they measure the same diameter as the snap caps.

any help is appreciated.
 
ProdigyS10 said:
i've done a search and not been able to find what i'm looking for answer wise, figure i'd ask.

got the stuff to reload on my own the other week and had a friend who's experienced at reloading rifle rounds come show me the ropes (i've read and watched videos but wanted to be sure i was doing things right)

so we loaded some 45ACP with 4.3,4.6,4.8 and 5.0 grains of HP38, with 230 grain lead wolf bullets..the dyes said the max overall length was 1.275 so we went just under that.... got to the range (didn't want to try loading them in the gun at home since i'm paranoid) and loaded them up. they all had issues feeding. and when you let the slide go forward on my 1911 it'd not quiet go the whole way forward, couldn't engage the safety and couldn't slide it back by hand, had to get some force on it to get it to release and then was fine. i measured my snap caps that cycle just fine and they were 1.205" long and talked to a friend who said his manual tells him a max overall length of 1.190"

i made up some empty rounds and kept pressing them until they started feeding right in my pistol, around 1.225" mark. so at this point i'm somewhat uncertain and figured i should ask a group of people with experience for advice. i don't want to just pick a length since if i go to short that would increase pressures and possibly be dangerous.

i ruled out that the bullets were pushing the brass to wide since they measure the same diameter as the snap caps.

any help is appreciated.
Click to expand...

They should be loaded to 1.200
Also, you should be able to take that load all the way up to 5.3 if you don't find any signs of high pressure. Brass will last a fairly long time with 5.0 though.

Cheers.
 
I cannot comment on the powder charges, but the first fundamental of a load for a semi-auto is reliable function, which includes feeding. So your loads need to be tailored to the length that will feed. You might not be able to achieve max powder charges with the bullets seated deeper.
You can check at home by taking the barrel out and checking the seating in the chamber.,
 
Try some empties at the 1.200" and check your feeding - you may need some more crimp as well. I use a Wilson case gauge to set my dies (and as a chamber checker for finished rounds).
 
Your bullet is hitting the rifling before the round can fully chamber. This is due to the shape of your bullet's nose/position of ogive. The ogive is the first part of the bullet that is big enough in diameter to touch the rifling. Two different but similar brands of say 230GR round nose might have different ogives, thus one can be seated longer than the other and still chamber.

Example might be my Hornady 230gr round nose can be seated at 1.25" and work fine in any .45ACP but Plated 230gr round nose from another bullet maker have to be seated to 1.20" or they will do exactly what yours are doing and jam.
 
It might also be your crimp. It should be in the .471-3 range. Not very much really, just enough to push the slight belling you did to let the lead rounds seat. They should go "thunk" when you drop them into your dissasembled barrel at home.
 
redryder said:
It might also be your crimp. It should be in the .471-3 range. Not very much really, just enough to push the slight belling you did to let the lead rounds seat. They should go "thunk" when you drop them into your dissasembled barrel at home.
Click to expand...

I had same issue, thought it was the length when it was actually the crimp....easy fix, no more issues
 
I can't believe no one has said this!

Take the barrel out of the gun!

Drop your loaded rounds into the chamber, and they should drop relatively freely in and out. If they do not you need to look at overall length and crimp.

A Lee Factory Crimp Die will ensure reliable feeding, as it sizes the case as it puts a taper crimp, which is what is needed in a .45 acp.

As far as OAL is concerned every gun is different, so you are gonna have to play with it to find out what works, using the barrel trick above.

Have fun.
M.
 
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