I have the Lyman 452490 mold for my 45 colt. The problem is if I seat the bullet so that I crimp on the crimp groove then my bullet is to long to work in my carbine, it works fine in my revolver. I looked on the Lyman site and it lists this mold under 45 colt but in their reloading manual it lists it under 454 casual. My question it can I use these bullets in my 45 colt and just seat them deeper, just past the crimp groove? Or should I not use these at all. I hate to have to buy another mold but if I do who in Canada sells Lyman molds. Oh I am using Trail boss powder at 5.5 grains if this make any difference.
45 colt problem
- Thread starter tbooker
- Start date
I would crimp them on the shoulder of the bullet, to make it overall shorter.
There is a very popular Lyman mold for the 357. All 357 revolvers do not take the same length cartridge. Some well known guns won't take the bullet from this particular mold, if it is crimped in the proper groove. One solution is to crimp it on the shoulder. The other solution, with the 357, is to use 38 special cases, and crimp in the proper crimping groove.
There is a very popular Lyman mold for the 357. All 357 revolvers do not take the same length cartridge. Some well known guns won't take the bullet from this particular mold, if it is crimped in the proper groove. One solution is to crimp it on the shoulder. The other solution, with the 357, is to use 38 special cases, and crimp in the proper crimping groove.
Interestingly, there is an article in the latest Handloader magazine dealing with the similar #452490 mold.
Apparently, some of these molds were made with the crimp groove too far back, resulting in an OAL too long to chamber in a Colt SAA with the bullet seated to the crimp groove. The work around for this was to crimp at the bullet shoulder.
I would also recommend trying crimping at the bullet shoulder.
Apparently, some of these molds were made with the crimp groove too far back, resulting in an OAL too long to chamber in a Colt SAA with the bullet seated to the crimp groove. The work around for this was to crimp at the bullet shoulder.
I would also recommend trying crimping at the bullet shoulder.
The only problem with the advice to crimp on the shoulder is that you need the shorter rounds for your rifle. For tubular magazines the crimp is intended to prevent the bullet from being pushed into the case. Crimping over the front band means that there is no crimp resistance to pushing the bullet into the case.
That solution would work for a revolver, as you are trying to keep the bullet from coming out of the case.
If you do this, you will have to consider changing the powder charge, as you have reduced the case capacity.
That solution would work for a revolver, as you are trying to keep the bullet from coming out of the case.
If you do this, you will have to consider changing the powder charge, as you have reduced the case capacity.
I have had sad personal experience, with .45Colt bullets I set too deep in the case, (past the crimp ring).
Not fun trying to clear that kind of a jamb from an 1860/66 or 73 series rifle.
I'd try a shorter bullet to make that crimp on the crimp ring.
The .45 Colt's using a 250 gr. bullet requires quite a heavy crimp to prevent the bullets from jumping forward on recoil and tying up the cylinder, just ask me, it did this to me at a cowboy action shoot. I was using heavy black powder loads and i guess the recoil was just too much for the crimps. I would suggest using the 250 cowboy action bullet from Lyman or the Keith bullet from Lyman or RCBS, although the keith may not feed well in the rifle. M.T. Chambers makes all these bullets and folks can try them before they invest in the mold.
Thanks for all the info. I have called Lymans and they are willing to exchange my used mould for a new 250 grain model. Talk about good customer service, they offered this to me without me having to ask for it. I will only be buying Lyman moulds from now on with serivce like that.
