There is nothing to keep it level is the issue. It doesn't pull up square, it pulls up however it wants to. Will be switching to the MDT style. Wanted this one as it's super low, just dosent stay square. Can see on the photo how one side gap is bigger than the other. I just wanted to see if anyone had experienced this with the cz rail.Perhaps the OP has figured things out. For other readers, perhaps the problem is that the rail has a gap between its bottom and the receiver's 11mm dovetails. See the OP's image below, where the red lines indicate.
If that's the issue, then there's nothing wrong. When the grub screws are tightened to fasten the rail to the rifle they "pull" the rail up to keep it in place.
457 pic rail
- Thread starter BadMechanic13
- Start date
- Location
- Northeastern Ontario
For clarity, the confusion existed only for 452 models, all of which are discontinued. All CZ 455 (also discontinued) and 457 models have the same 11mm dovetails.
If the 'super low' is what you want you could use a level to adjust the rail. I always use a level when mounting a scope anyway. First, level the rifle in a vise via the receiver, level the rail or mount, then the rings on the rail or dove, then the scope on the turret. This is 'not Super accurate' but pretty dam close IMO.
- Location
- Northeastern Ontario
Unfortunately, there seems to be some variation among these rails. When they are as they should be, the problem you identify shouldn't occur. As I recall, DIP CZ 457 rails attach the same way. Another attaching method uses lateral screws to attach rails to dovetails. I can't say if that eliminates problems.
I have a warne on my other 457. Works great, other than being quite long. Probably just get another one in that style with the lateral screws. The cz is low and short, what I was looking for. But will look for the shortest one like the MDT/419 I can find.
Bad - I have the 419 on my VMTR and I find it's pretty 'high' as Bangalore's pic shows. Adds about 1/2" so that may be good i you have a 50+mm scope but I had to add a cheek pad to my rifle to get to the 56mm Athlon I have. And the 'bubble level' helps but not in the most convenient place Below the optic bell. I use it but have to hold real still or it goes 'off level'. I have a one-piece rest (Primos Group Therapy) that holds it IF I'm using it. In my Caldwell Front rest it's more 'touchy'.
Cliff N Canyon
New member
Ahhh alright, makes sense. Looks like I'm gonna be looking for a piccitany rail for my rifle too!
Cliff N Canyon
New member
Cliff, be sure to get good rings too - at least an inch of clamping length OR More. Saving 1/2-oz isn't worth the possible cost. Get someone to carry the rifle if it's too heavy'sarc'
Haha will do! Thanks!
Cliff, be sure to get good rings too - at least an inch of clamping length OR More. Saving 1/2-oz isn't worth the possible cost. Get someone to carry the rifle if it's too heavy
All excelent points.
Regarding Pic/Weaver rails, a good scope, with good rings can often be removed and reinstalled with a high degree of repeatability.
Even with light recoil on a .22 I have seen claw mount dovetail rings walk. I have not seen this recently, because I learned early on to put a drop of locktite on the claw for a bit of stick.
Good rings are indeed important, I use "Weaver" brand, they are comparably priced with cheap rings, but are well made and work. With cheap rings that I have tried, tolerances can be a bit "wide + and -" on both the bore for the scope tube and the clamps. I had tried a cheap gunshow one piece mount, and was unable to zero the scope, it was that crooked from the factory.
Bottom line, you want a good, solid and robust connection between you optic and the rifle as that is one less "variable" to contend with when it comes to accuracy.
Cliff N Canyon
New member
I've seen my scope rings walk forward as well. I tightened the screws a fair deal more and haven't seen it since, but I suppose the fact that it is a possibility is probably a sign I should get a more stable set up!
- Location
- Northeastern Ontario
There's a very simple way to avoid this problem and it's not secret or magic. Use good quality rings and torque to manufacturer's recommendations.
Until recently, the majority of European-made .22LR rifles have had only dovetail grooves. For many decades scopes have been mounted successfully and without issue on these rifles. The aperture sights used in ISSF (Olympic-style) shooting use dovetail grooves only.
Not all rings will work equally well with both 3/8" grooves (mostly North American firearms) and 11mm dovetails. Not all dovetail rings are equal in quality. Some dovetail rings will work better with a flat surface between the grooves rather than a round one.
Of course some shooters may prefer to use Picatinny-style rings for other reasons. The point is that dovetail rings work and won't be an issue when done properly.
