45ACP Crimp Question

Wolfgang7

Wolfgang7

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Hi all. So I’m just getting into reloading 45ACP. Have reloaded for years, 9mm for the most part as far as pistols go. Anyway my Lyman reloading manual says never to “roll crimp” 45ACP. My 45 die set includes (as well as my 9mm reloading practice always included) a factory crimp die. So I always did deprime/ prime/ powder/ bullet seat/ factory crimp.

My question is should I be using my factory crimp die when reloading 45ACP? Or should I skip that step? Is that the same as a roll crimp or what’s the difference ?? Thanks in advance ! I plan to reload 230GR round nose to start ….

As well my press is a Lee precision single stage with and auto indexer ….
 
45 acp requires a taper crimp your factory crimp die will Do the job. A roll crimp is mostly used on revolver caliber loads it is a more aggressive type crimp to prevent bullet movement due to recoil especially in magnum loads.
 
Lee makes factory crimp dies in both styles, depending on what is appropriate for the cartridge. For most revolver cartridges their factory crimp die roll crimps, for most semi-auto's it is a taper crimp (including 45ACP ). You are good to go with the Lee factory crimp die you have.
 
All you really need to worry about is eliminating the belling you applied prior to loading a bullet onto the case. You can use your finger as a guide. The case should feel smooth as you go over the case mouth mush the same as you did for the 9MM. Nothing magic about loading for the 45acp. Pay attention to your OAL. To long and the cartridge will not seat.

Take Care

Bob
 
If you are using .45ACP in a revolver, you will need to use a roll crimp. A taper crimp will result in the bullets working out of the case with recoil, getting worse with each shot. This can cause the cylinder to bind. For auto loaders the taper crimp is the way to go.

Auggie D.
 
to get consistent uniform crimping from round to round, the brass cases must be identical length. uneven crimping tension will affect velocity and chambering.
 
first off. ALWAYS worry about. O.A.L. for the .45 taper crimp. the idea is to adjust your die untill it takes away the case bell, then give it another 1/4 to 1/2 turn. load it up. do a plunk test. or load up a blank (no powder, no live primer, just an empty case with a bullet) load it in your mag make sure it feeds like it should without hanging up or anything. then you should be good to go.
 
Trimming 45acp brass is a waste of time. First I have yet to discover a 45acp case that was .898 in length and that includes new unfired Winchester brass. ie 100 cases in a new bag measured less than .898".

45acp cases shorten with reloading. A number of years ago I did a test where I tracked 100 new cases. I got up to 16 reloads before I encountered split case mouths or split cases. All of the cases had shortened. I quit tracking them at that point. Most ended up splitting along the length of the case due to case hardening. That was with Winchester brass. I have had Norinco brass split after the first reloading while other Norc brass seemed to hang around for ever.

The 45acp is one of the easiest cartridges to reload, albeit with the caveat that you can double charge a case which will do your ego no good at all. I do know a Norinco barrel will survive a double charge of 231 ie 10.4gr of 231. The grips and the top three rounds in the magazine did not survive the ordeal however. DO NOT TRY THIS YOU MAY NOT BE A LUCKY AS I WAS!

Take Care

Bob
 
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