.577 Snider BP Cartridge Load Data

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Weapontech

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I'm getting conflicting info from what I've read, and what I've heard when it comes to loading for this cartridge.
Does anyone have access to load data (i.e. charts) for various bullet weights, etc? The load I'm trying to develop is for the carbine.

I have everything required - just load data!

Thanks for any help....
 
Loading black in the snider isn't much different then loading black in any of the other big, old carts., you make your own data. I'll try to explain: You determine the seating depth of the particular bullet that you are going to use, all bullets and all chambers will be different. Once that is done, using a vernier or some such, determine how deep the bullet will sit inside the case, (maybe make notes). Drop tube(some compression) varying amounts of powder until bullet will sit right on top of the powder with NO airspace. That would normally be your load, but for the carbine you could/should sub. some felt wads between the bullet and the powder, and reduce charge accordingly, again, there should be no airspace, this way you keep proper oal. but can vary your load for a carbine. I hope this has helped and isn't too confusing.
 
ben hunchak said:
Loading black in the snider isn't much different then loading black in any of the other big, old carts., you make your own data.
Click to expand...

Thanks Ben, appreciate the info - but I was hoping for something a little more specific.
I load for a couple of other BP types, but was looking for a good starting load for a Snider carbine that approaches the original factory loads; (i.e. was it a 480gn bullet, 70gns FFg capped with 20gns of filler, seated to OAL of xx??
Also, any info or opinions on the best filler, etc, etc would be appreciated. Is it best to use a wad to separate filler & charge?
 
Snider load

I concur with Ben. My opinion is that the "standard load" for the Snider, whether carbine or full length will result in a less than satisfactory result. You will have to develop your own load that works for your rifle. Use 55 grains of 2F(starting load) black with a stiff cardboard wad that fits tightly in the case. I have to shape my wads around the end of a piece of dowling to give them a cup shape. Now you are going to have to fill the rest of the case up with a filler. The type of filler is up to you. I have used corn meal but have been told that it leaves a residue so now use cream of wheat. I understand kapok can be used. I dip the bullets in melted lube and seat them on top. When the lube cools it adheres the bullet into the case and, of course, helps loosen up the fouling. I went through a lot of different projectiles with mine (shortened long rifle so slow twist) and found that it prefered round ball and the shorter minnies with heavy skirts. Also I found that minnies cast from wheel weights performed far better than pure lead.

Cheers. Steve.
 
I've been told the same, the shorter the bullet for the snider, the better. A 30-1 mixture of lead to tin would work well, and a "cookie" of Bp lube under the bullet works too, again, no airspace. The orig. poster has to forget everything he knows about reloading SMOKELESS in regards to suggested loads and suggested OAL. He needs to get/fashion a drop tube, and get at it and stop pussy footing around.
 
One point that we have to remember is that those original cartridges used Boxer casings, made up of laminated foil and paper for the body. The rim was an iron washer and there were a pair of cups at the base, a coiled-paper innner base wad and the thing was basically held together by the primer. There wasn't a lot of room inside one.

When they came out with drawn-brass cases, a cardboard liner was used below the neck to reduce inside case capacity. This cardboard liner continued in Kynoch production to the end of Snider ammo production in about 1966. It's purpose was to reduce case capacity to approximate the capacity of the old Boxer case.

If you are using modern drawn-brass cases, your inside capacity will be MUCH greater than the original ammunition.

Try reducing the case capacity with a homemade cardboard liner (just rolled paper and glue), pop it in and THEN size the case. There should be enough of a "shoulder" to retain this liner almost indefinitely.

Snider Carbines are complete FUN to shoot. You can actually WATCH the bullet go if you have binos and someone else is shooting. The shooter, though, feels the Carbine TWIST to the right as the thing fires: all that lead taking so much time to get down that whole 20 inches of barrel!

But they are FUN!

BTW, you can make up brass from 24-bore brass cases. MAGTECH in Brazil makes these; Cabela's handles them in North America, 22.95 a box of 25.
 
I've posted my recipe for snider success before but here it is again. 60gr ffg with an overpowder wad. I then avoid the use of filler and seat the bullet (I prefer a .590" round ball for accuracy) inside the case before sealing it in with my beeswax/parrafin/olive oil lube. I get sub 4" grouds at 50 yards with my Snider carbine. I have had terrible luck shooting loads/bullets similar to factory specs but this works for me. Good luck
 
Tactical870 is right on the mark. If it's a slow twist long rifle or a cadet carbine cut down from a slow twist rifle then you will find the round ball load with a diameter between .590" and .600" will shoot best. One factor not mentioned here so far is the different type of cases and differences in volume of each. Turned cases have the smallest volume and I find them easiest to load for the Snider. Drawn cases are next with the Magtech cases mentioned being the largest volume and most difficult to load for. I do not use fillers and do not recommend them. I do use wads...24 gauge wads 1/8" thick from "Circle Fly Wads". This takes all the work and guess work out of wads. Start with 50-55 grns. of FG and work up from there. You will find that accuracy is usually obtained at about 60 gns. Don't worry about conventional methods here just load and shoot. Have fun.....Dave
 
smellie said:
One point that we have to remember is that those original cartridges used Boxer casings, made up of laminated foil and paper for the body. The rim was an iron washer and there were a pair of cups at the base, a coiled-paper innner base wad and the thing was basically held together by the primer. There wasn't a lot of room inside one.

When they came out with drawn-brass cases, a cardboard liner was used below the neck to reduce inside case capacity. This cardboard liner continued in Kynoch production to the end of Snider ammo production in about 1966. It's purpose was to reduce case capacity to approximate the capacity of the old Boxer case.

If you are using modern drawn-brass cases, your inside capacity will be MUCH greater than the original ammunition.

Try reducing the case capacity with a homemade cardboard liner (just rolled paper and glue), pop it in and THEN size the case. There should be enough of a "shoulder" to retain this liner almost indefinitely.

Snider Carbines are complete FUN to shoot. You can actually WATCH the bullet go if you have binos and someone else is shooting. The shooter, though, feels the Carbine TWIST to the right as the thing fires: all that lead taking so much time to get down that whole 20 inches of barrel!

But they are FUN!

BTW, you can make up brass from 24-bore brass cases. MAGTECH in Brazil makes these; Cabela's handles them in North America, 22.95 a box of 25.
Click to expand...
This is nnot altogether true.
I have original packages of Snider ammo, com with paper cases and brass bases, others with brass cases .
I also have a few of the foil cased ones.
I use a bullet mold that was designed by Kerry Jjennkinson and marked by Lee.
Kerry is likely the best authority on Sniders of anyone I have ever met.

I use 70 grains of FFG in MagTech brass( 24 gauge fire formed).
Cat
 
The only filler I've used in my Snider cases is called black powder. Come on guys, if you can handle 12ga slugs from a light single shot, or most .30-06 rifles, a 577 case full of 68-78gr of 1F shouldn't drive your shoulder into the next grid-square? I've loaded paper-patched .575 'old-style' minie's, and as-cast lubed RCBS (Goodwin pattern) .590" minie types, and the only stuff I've put between powder and bullet have been card wads, 'grease' (usually SPG or 1000+ mixtures) cookies, and a few I've tried with carded-wool as per .577-450 MH LOC loads. (historically interesting or not; burning wool stinks).
1F usually gives me better accuracy in the big ones, and I've played with 1/2/3' drop-tubes, newsprint 'primer-wads', and what gives best accuracy in my Cadet carbine may not do so in my 2-band short-rifle or 3-band long-rifle, & vice versa. After a fair bit of fooling around I usually crimp as consistently as possible (IE: trim brass as needed) fwd of the front lube-groove. I know guys who don't crimp BP loads at all; whatever works for you. I see it as insurand for consistent neck-tension and burn, but maybe that's just me?
Experiment, have fun, make lots of noise & smoke.
 
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