6.5 for moose???

This is a damn good thread! Thanks for all the info once again.

From the looks of things, it seems all of these rounds will do the trick just fine. 270 seems the easiest to work with and the top dog for power, although 260 and 6.5 swede seem also capable in a shorter action ( I plan on using either a tikka or a savage, havnt decided yet).

Would it be easy practical to neck down 308 brass into 260? Im complete bush league when it comes to loading, Ill be buying a kit when I buy the rifle.

the 270 reddington and 270-08 sound like the kings..... but then your start running into the downward spiral of complicated ballistics and hard to find reloading supplies.

I should also note that I plan on using a short barrel. 20in or optimally 18.5 if I can get away with it. I figure if the 308 guys can take it to 1k..... that should be more than enough for any coyote I will enounter.

Keep in mind that if you buy a tikka there is no such thing as a short action. All of their actions are long action, so there is no added benefit of a short cartridge over a long one.
 
The owner of one of the top moose hunting outfitters in Quebec says you can absolutely shoot a moose with those calibers you mentioned and harvest them successfully. Shot placement is key, he also recommends NOT shooting for the shoulder or spine no matter the caliber. For a clean kill the heart and lungs are bigger targets and get the job done with the added benefit of draining out a bunch of blood which gives you a better quality meat.
 
I have shot a fair amount of game with various 6.5mm Chamberings from the 6.5x54 right up to the 264 Win Mag.

I have taken 3 or 4 moose with the 6.5x55, and never had to shoot one twice.

The 264 Win Mag used to be in a class of it's own, and I shot a couple of elk and quite a few muleys with mine.

Again, nothing required a second shot, and a couple of the deer were taken at 450+ yards.

The lowly 6.5 x54 MS accounted for 3 muleys and 2 Whitetails, using that long 160 RN bullet...never recovered one of those.

So, to the OP, the 6.5's as a group are plenty adequate for moose.

Regards, dave.
 
The 6.5 bullets have excellent sectional density. This means good ballistics and excellent penetration.

Large moose shot with 6.5x55 with Hornady 160RN. Bullet found under skin on far side. One shot kill.

260 Rem has similar power.

If I was making another 6.5 for hunting, I would make it an Ackley Improved. I use a 260 AI for F class, and the extra case capacity comes in handy for en extra scoop of slow powder.
 
Although 260 and 6.5 swede seem also capable in a shorter action ( I plan on using either a tikka or a savage, havnt decided yet).

As mentioned, all Tikkas are long actions

Would it be easy practical to neck down 308 brass into 260?

Yes, but you can buy .260 brass

the 270 reddington and 270-08 sound like the kings..... but then your start running into the downward spiral of complicated ballistics and hard to find reloading supplies.

.277 cal bullets are not hard to find, neither is .260 or 7-08 brass which are the easiest to form for the .270 Redding or the .270/308. The dies will be the sticker, they are not hard to find, but they are customs so you will pay a premium for them.
 
Everyone knows that our hunting friends on the other side of the globe don't know what a moose actually is...they use their 6.5 sweedes to hunt elk not moose :)
 
Sounds like a sweet rig Kevan!

It is Thanks, not everyones cup of tea but it works well for me.
I used mid-range 270 Redding data for starting loads and worked my way up.
Not as fast as the Redding version, but not far behind.

As for 6.5s, Bill L. worked his magic with a '50s vintage pre-64 Mod. 70 and came up with a really nice shooting 256 Newton, essentially a stout 6.5-06 and I have yet to hunt with it.
Load data is more difficult to find for it since the Newton cartridge is long gone as far as handloaders are concerned.
However, by next season it will be ready to hunt...
 
The original poster gave the choice of 25-06, 6.5x55, 6.5 creedmore, and 260. Adding the 270 was my idea as a obvious better choice. But of the four choices the 260 would be my choice.


The OP also stated in a later post that the 270 win had been his first obvious choice until he had come under the impression that is was not a legal caliber choice
 
When did being competent with your rifle become irrelevant?Many people didn't have a clue about game anatomy[or panicked in a tight spot] and these are the one's who died trying to emulate Bell.He started out with the .303 British,then the 6.5 MS and finally most of his "work" with the 7x57.The 6.5's may not be frontal chest shot charge stoppers but will penetrate skulls or bust both shoulders on a broadside shot like there's no tomorrow I have never yet recovered a 160gr Hornady shot into a moose.I load 42gr of either IMR 4350 or N-204 and a 156gr Sako or 160gr Hornady.Harold
 
In my experience Moose are not particularly tough and are relatively easy to kill with any medium game cartridge.
 
In my experience Moose are not particularly tough and are relatively easy to kill with any medium game cartridge.

True. They have a large vital zone that if hit, will produce results. Sometimes people keep shooting (unnecessarily) because they simply haven't given the animal time to realize its dead (so to speak).
 
It will work just fine and don't let anyone else sway you:)

Just go out and buy the one that most catches your fancy. If it were me, I'd likely go with the 260 because of efficiency of a shorter bolt throw over the 6.5x55, but it will likely come down to finding the rifle you want.

Good luck in your search!
 
As opposed to other animals where you don't get results from a vital zone hit? :confused: ;)

Heh, no, it was a reference to the potential difficulty of reaching the vitals in some other game and the fact that moose often stand there dumbfounded with a hole through their lungs. Sorry if it wasn't clear. :d
 
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