6.5x55 or 3006 ?

I

Islandarms

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I got a rifle from an auction and they said its a 6.5x55 . I didn't think anything of it. took me abit to get some brass. Before loading I put an empty case in and it got stuck. Weird i thought. I got it out then looked around with no markings on barrel at all. I look down to the chamber of the barrel and see these markings. So i guess i ts a 3006 not a 6.5x55 ?Anyone else seen this before ?
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Measure it and you may want to get a GO and NO Go in what the measurements suggest it is. A local gunsmith might be a good idea too.

PLEASE DO NOT POST HOTLINKS TO A NON-SPONSORING BUSINESS.
 
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Bet it was a short chambered barrel installed on your gun and thats why it was marked.

Like the others have said, best bet is have a smith do a chamber cast for ya. Safest way to go
 
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Cerrosafe is the preferred product for a precision chamber cast, candle wax will work good enough for what you want to do.
Use a cleaning rod to place a "plug" cleaning patch or price of paper towel just past the chamber in the beginning of the trifling.
Warm up the chamber area of the barrel with a hair dryer or heat gun.
Melt some wax in a container you can pour out of.
Now the fun part, pour the melted wax into the warmed up chamber(some kind of warmed up funnel will be of great benefit)
Let the wax cool
Use the cleaning rod to push your chamber cast ot of the barrel
Now compare to the suspected cartridge
This is all easier with stripped action and a vise to hold the barreled action vertical
Clean all the spilled wax out of the action before shooting
Good luck
 
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crooked barrel jed said:
Do the above procedure with a somewhat oily chamber, it will help the wax slide out.
The wax can be somewhat fragile, sometimes it works like a dream, sometimes you get a pile of wax shrapnel (probably depends on the wax)
But it's cheap and does work
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i appreciate it. I'm on a small island in the middle of nowhere so gunsmith isn't an option.
 
crooked barrel jed said:
Cerrosafe is the preferred product for a precision chamber cast, candle wax will work good enough for what you want to do.
Use a cleaning rod to place a "plug" cleaning patch or price of paper towel just past the chamber in the beginning of the trifling.
Warm up the chamber area of the barrel with a hair dryer or heat gun.
Melt some wax in a container you can pour out of.
Now the fun part, pour the melted wax into the warmed up chamber(some kind of warmed up funnel will be of great benefit)
Let the wax cool
Use the cleaning rod to push your chamber cast ot of the barrel
Now compare to the suspected cartridge
This is all easier with stripped action and a vise to hold the barreled action vertical
Clean all the spilled wax out of the action before shooting
Good luck
Click to expand...
Good idea, I suspect this will confirm 30-06.
 
AB3006 said:
I never have, but then I don't run either caliber. Is this like the 20 ga shotshells in a 12 ga shotgun debacle?
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kinda...However
300 Blackout into a .223/5.56 chamber is actually much worse
than a 20-gauge in a 12-gauge chamber.

Why....
The fatal flaw of the .300 Blackout is that it was intentionally designed to use the exact same parent case as the 223.

They can chamber either way....
one) the blackout into a 223 is a catastrophic explosion...30 cal into 223 is a lead cork and the expansion of gas will have to go somewhere.
two) the 223 in a 300 blackout has expanded gas going past the 223 round in a 30 cal chamber and barrel jamming a case in the chamber and deforming it.

The 20 guage gets stuck a ways in the 12 guage barrel. THATS nasty fishing.
 
I Dont Care About You said:
This is not correct.

The parent case of the 300 BLK is 221 Fireball.

Yes, 223 Rem can be cut down and formed into 300 BLK, but that is not the original parent case.3d
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confusing the wildcat .300 Whisper with the actual SAAMI-standardized .300 AAC Blackout.

Do YOUR history!!

Let's fix your history lesson:
You are confusing the wildcat _.300 Whisper with the SAAMI-standardized .300 AAC Blackout

When Advanced Armament Corp (AAC) standardized the .300 BLK in 2011, the primary design protocol from lead developer Robert Silvers was explicitly to use the 5.56x45mm NATO / .223 Remington as the primary parent casing so it could utilize mass-production military logistics.

Furthermore, the .221 Firebal itself is just a shortened derivative of the .222 Remington, which shares the exact same base and rim geometry as the .223.
 
Islandarms, it's a 30-06.

The advice being given here is fine if you don't have any indicators.

Your rifle was rebarreled, and as mentioned, either long or short chambered when ordered, intended to be finished by the installer, with a finishing reamer to establish headspace.

The stamp indicates it was "long chambered, which means the installer can trim the tenon to establish proper headspace.

Usually, the rifle's muzzle is recrowned to remove the stampings, which could effect accuracy by deforming the muzzle and the few thousandths needed to clean it up would fix any issues, if there are any.

If you have a 6.5mm bullet available, it should fit easily into the bore at the muzzle, as will a 7mm or .277 diameter bullet. A 30 cal bullet will fit part way up the ogive of the bullet.

I've seen and used these barrels before, when the job was a one off, and I didn't want to put out money for a reamer.
 
I had a similar situation with a sporterized SMLE I bought, wouldn't chamber .303 British so out of curiosity I got some Cerrosafe and cast the chamber. It had been rechambered to, of all things, a .307 Win.
 
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