6.5x55 Swede Stepped Barrel
- Thread starter urmitch
- Start date
!. You should be in Gunsmithing. That's where they butcher them. THIS is MILSURP, where we try to save a very few from the butchers.
2. Why? The steps in the barrel are there for a REASON, the reason being to break up barrel vibrations near (but not right on) their nodes, thus making the barrel less whippy and more accurate.
3. If you are really heart-set on destroying something, why not go out and buy a new Savvie or Winnie or Remmy and practise on that? At least you can get the parts to rebuild it after you screw it up. Original Swedish Mauser parts are getting hard to find.
4. Anthony at Trade-Ex Canada (gray button at 10 o'clock from the CGN Beaver, top of this page) has some brand-new 22-inch barrels, in the white, for Swedish Model 38 short rifles. They are short-chambered and perfect for gunsmithing projects...... and they don't wreck another original rifle.
Think about it.
Please.
As to turning one down, any competent machinist with a lathe can do it quite easily. It is not a difficult job, just not necessary either. Don't go TOO far: always remember that you are trying to hold in 50,000 pounds per square inch of pressure if you shoot commercial ammo.
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2. Why? The steps in the barrel are there for a REASON, the reason being to break up barrel vibrations near (but not right on) their nodes, thus making the barrel less whippy and more accurate.
3. If you are really heart-set on destroying something, why not go out and buy a new Savvie or Winnie or Remmy and practise on that? At least you can get the parts to rebuild it after you screw it up. Original Swedish Mauser parts are getting hard to find.
4. Anthony at Trade-Ex Canada (gray button at 10 o'clock from the CGN Beaver, top of this page) has some brand-new 22-inch barrels, in the white, for Swedish Model 38 short rifles. They are short-chambered and perfect for gunsmithing projects...... and they don't wreck another original rifle.
Think about it.
Please.
As to turning one down, any competent machinist with a lathe can do it quite easily. It is not a difficult job, just not necessary either. Don't go TOO far: always remember that you are trying to hold in 50,000 pounds per square inch of pressure if you shoot commercial ammo.
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.
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If you want a Swedish sporter, then go to the Trade Ex website, (sponsors link above,) and check out "products" category and the "Hunting and Sporting Rifles" sub-category.
You can buy some Commercial Husqvarna sporters there, some with side safeties, and scope bases already mounted, for under $250.
By the time you take a Military Swede, turn the barrel, bend the bolt handle, drill and tap for scope mounts, and other work, you will have much more than that invested in it. Also, you will have to mount the scope high, because of the original safety.
The 6.5s are sold off fast, but the Commercial Husqvarna Swede sporters, with the solid left sidewall are available, especially in the 8x57 (8mm Mauser) calibre at a very reasonable price. For all practical purposes, the 8x57 Mauser cartridge exceeds the .308 Winchester performance, and approaches or sometimes equals the 30-06.
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If you want a Swedish sporter, then go to the Trade Ex website, (sponsors link above,) and check out "products" category and the "Hunting and Sporting Rifles" sub-category.
You can buy some Commercial Husqvarna sporters there, some with side safeties, and scope bases already mounted, for under $250.
By the time you take a Military Swede, turn the barrel, bend the bolt handle, drill and tap for scope mounts, and other work, you will have much more than that invested in it. Also, you will have to mount the scope high, because of the original safety.
The 6.5s are sold off fast, but the Commercial Husqvarna Swede sporters, with the solid left sidewall are available, especially in the 8x57 (8mm Mauser) calibre at a very reasonable price. For all practical purposes, the 8x57 Mauser cartridge exceeds the .308 Winchester performance, and approaches or sometimes equals the 30-06.
.
Smellie is absolutely correct !!!!!
The stepped sections are designed to break up the harmonics of barrel vibration to increase the accuracy of the barrel.
Their removal will decrease the accuracy. All you will do is ruin a perfectly good barrel.
Cheers,
B
The stepped sections are designed to break up the harmonics of barrel vibration to increase the accuracy of the barrel.
Their removal will decrease the accuracy. All you will do is ruin a perfectly good barrel.
Cheers,
B
Mauser introduced the step barrel to allow for barrel expansion with extended fire. The old methods of bedding caused the barrel to bind and change the point of aim as the barrel heated up.
If you look at the bedding of a Karabiner 98k, you will notice the corresponding step to the barrel step, in the stock, is a few millimetres beyond the barrel step. This is to allow the barrel to expand with minimum effect on accuracy.
The Gew 1888 barrel jacket was another solution to the expansion, change of impact problem. The Danes and Belgians also adopted the barrel jacket.
Today, “Free Floating” a barrel, is seen as the answer.
If you look at the bedding of a Karabiner 98k, you will notice the corresponding step to the barrel step, in the stock, is a few millimetres beyond the barrel step. This is to allow the barrel to expand with minimum effect on accuracy.
The Gew 1888 barrel jacket was another solution to the expansion, change of impact problem. The Danes and Belgians also adopted the barrel jacket.
Today, “Free Floating” a barrel, is seen as the answer.
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The barrel jacket works too as my 88s are among my most accurate rifles.
Don't feel too bad but you have to realize that many people on this sub forum are dedicated to the preservation and care of military rifles and carbines in their original condition, even the parts (i.e. spare barrels) that would be associated with them.
Some other good reasons for not stepping a swede barrel were also presented so I hope they answered your original question.
The barrel vibration question is discussed on a few of the Long Range Black Powder Cartridge Rifles forum and books.
There is a paper patching book, “Loading & Shooting Paper Patched Bullets,
by R. Wright”, that does briefly discuss the subject.
His solution has nothing to do with altering the contour of the barrel, but read the book.
There is a paper patching book, “Loading & Shooting Paper Patched Bullets,
by R. Wright”, that does briefly discuss the subject.
His solution has nothing to do with altering the contour of the barrel, but read the book.
