6.5x55 w/ 95grn Vmax?

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I have been loading 95grn Vmax for my Husky M38. I have been setting the bullets for an OAL of 2.850. Should I be setting them out farther? Closer to the max OAL? The have been shooting ok, i suppose, but I am wondering if seating them out farther would improve things at all? (i dont have the equipment to measure powder) I am using the Lee die set with the 2.8cc powder scoop (around 43grns) with H414 powder. Any suggestions would be great.


Thanks.
 
My suggestion would be a powder measure and scale. You need to find a load (around 43grns isn't close enough) before you start working with seating deepth.
 
I agree with Maynard. Time for you to get a scale to weigh powder. At 43 grns your still about 4 - 5 grs low of a max safe charge (from my load data).

How do the 95 vmaxs shoot? I handload only 140 and 142 gr bullets in my 6.5
 
yep, i agree you need to get a measure and scale......i could not get the 95 grainers to shoot as well as my 120 to 140 grainers

Wanted to add my support to this. If you are shooting one of the old 6.5X55's e.g. M38, M96 etc. they had a twist around 1 in 7.5 (not exact) which meant they preferred heavier bullets like 140 or 160 grains. So, a bullet change might actually make things go better. The lightest bullet I loaded for the 6.5 was 129 grains. So, I don't know from experience how these lighter bullets will look.
I stuck with cartridge overall lengths given in the manuals until I had become confident with other reloading processes, e.g. working up loads by changing powders, changing primers, trying different bullets, etc. So, it isn't the place I see a guy logically starting. Still, depth that a bullet is seated can be an important variable and if someone wants to vary it I think it is important to go about it in a systematic way. It wouldn't hurt to have someone experienced check out what you are doing for awhile too.
The first thing is to choose a starting point in relation to the lands in the rifle. To do this you have to measure the location of the lands. There are various ways of doing this and various tools have been developed to help. The way I do it is by starting with a COL that wont chamber and progressively seating the bullet further and further in until it will chamber and the engraving marks from the lands just disappear. This is always my starting point. It isn't the only starting point one might choose, and not necessarily the best, but it is a consistent starting point. The next thing I do is measure the position of the shoulder of the bullet when it is seated according to the way I have just described. I measure this using a comparator and a vernier caliper and I record this measurement for future use. (Note: I will do all these measurements a number of times to get some idea of what the average figure is.) I find measuring the position of the bullets shoulder rather than the tip is a more accurate way to measure as tips of bullets vary more than the shoulder and can be deformed much easier. It also allows you to accurately measure the change in location of the lands due to wear by repeating the measurements described above over the lifetime of the barrel, and it allows you to locate bullets of different weights and shapes at the same position in relation to the lands. In other words if you take the measurement for the shoulder of the bullet you can always put the shoulder of different bullets at the same place in relation to the lands by measuring the position of their shoulder while seating them and this is the part that first engraves on the lands when you shoot. Now when you go to vary cartridge length you have a systematic place to start from. There are a couple of things you should watch out for when changing cartridge overall length. One is to make sure your bullet length will fit your magazine if you are using one. The old 6.5X55's were forgiving in this regard, but many hunting rifles aren't. Another is to always start from your manual's low load for the powder bullet combination you are using and work carefully up when you are working close to the lands. If you leave a bullet engraved in the lands, or if you adjust so the bullet engraves into the lands, you can get high pressures pretty quickly sometimes and this could be hazardous. Another thing is that I never use loaded bullets when taking all these measurements, just a sized, unloaded, unprimed case with a bullet seated at different depths.
Well, I'm not convinced I have discussed everything here. Maybe someone else will pick up something I have missed. Hope this is useful.
 
so far I haven't been able to get the 95's to shoot out of my much slower 9" twist Tikka. Still, it's a work in progress and I'm optimistic that I can find a load/powder it likes.

Same with your swede. The bullet and your barrel are a bad match. They may be able to be made to shoot acceptably, but it's going to take more work that it otherwise might. That makes it all the much more critical that your powder measurements are precise, and that you're diligent when working up loads.
 
Hmm, thanks for the information. I guess I will find some heavier bullets to try after this batch. I will also keep my eye open for a powder measure and scale... any suggestions?[/QU

Lee powder measure and scale is what I have (came in the anniversary kit). The measure and scale by itself shouldn't cost alot (around $60.00). It works fine. Other people like RCBS, Lyman, and it comes down to personal preference ( and your budget). It is not hard to spend $200.00 or more on just a scale. When you decide on a heavier bullet, I am pretty sure you will notice an improvement in accuracy.
 
Good move to get measuring tools. Any of the beam balances from reputable dealers should be OK, e.g. Lee, Hornady, Forster, Lyman etc., but I bought a PACT electronic scale years ago and boy I like using an electronic scale, especially if you are getting into weighing bullets and cases etc. Don't forget to have a set of standard weights to check your scale (The dealer should send one.) If you have the money, that is the route I would go for the future, though this is not necessarily a recommendation for PACT. My scale has been good over the years and PACT did treat me well with the one problem I did have. But I see guys posting about electronic systems around this website that interest me and I am dated in what I know here. Maybe someone here will have an up to date recommendation. As for powder measures, I have used Lee and RCBS for years. They work well, but I will say that Lee's use of plastic makes it easy to chip a part of the dispenser section when you get bridging of the powder. I found this annoying and wish they would put metal in there. Had the same thing happen with their shotshell reloaders. Wouldn't stop me from buying their stuff though. Wouldn't stop my cussing them either...
 
The 139-140gr bullets should improve things for you - a lot! They have a significantly higher BC in the 0.6 range!

Volumetric measurement is for black powder...

You'll need a powder thrower and balance (scale) first. A powder trickler is useful too - for topping-up the pan....

There are lots of options to finding this stuff: your local shop(s), gun shows, supporting CGN dealers, here on the EE. You don't need anything fancy. Another most useful tool is a set of calibration weights - to set-up your balance for a given load. This way, you'll know for sure your balance is 'on'.

Good Luck - be safe!!!!

SD
 
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Don't get me wrong - I'd bet money that you could get the 95 grainers to shoot very well indeed. Perhaps not match-winning accuracy (but then again, you'll never get match accuracy without some serious modifications to the gun itself).

But I'd bet, with enough diligence, you could find a load that will shoot the 95's at a minute of angle (providing the gun and shooter are capable of that accuracy)
 
The m96 is the only rifle I reload for. I use Hornady SP 100gr and 140gr I use two different powders. The two different bullets shoot the same at 100yards with max loads(according to LEE) with their respective powders. Oh and get a digital scale. unless you know how to level and balance the manual scales.
 
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Oh, and as far as OAL is conserned. The easiest way(cheapest) to figure out seating depth is to get a spent brass and stick a bullet in it, but make sure the neck is not too tight, chamber the round until you can lock the bolt down. unchamber, measure the OAL and then back off 0.020. This is a good place to start.
 
I have been loading 95grn Vmax for my Husky M38. I have been setting the bullets for an OAL of 2.850. Should I be setting them out farther? Closer to the max OAL? The have been shooting ok, i suppose, but I am wondering if seating them out farther would improve things at all? (i dont have the equipment to measure powder) I am using the Lee die set with the 2.8cc powder scoop (around 43grns) with H414 powder. Any suggestions would be great.


Thanks.
You don't say what results you're getting...is that combination of components really bad? Personally I have an old box of Norma 77 gr bullets ( from a gun show ) that I loaded for my M38. I used imr 3031 and the powder scoop that came with the Lee Classic Loader. The results were 1" 1/2 at 100 yds. To me that's acceptable considering the long military free bore and the twist mismatch. Unless you end up with 3-4" groups, you might well be inside a minute of marmot!
 
Since some of you are asking... here is a picture of a target from the 100yd line. This was shot with the 95grn vmax.
65target.jpg
 
Well - The Swede mausers have long throats. Some are so long you cant get even close to the lands with the shorter bullets. Not to worry, they can still shoot fine with a tuned load.
I've recently been working up a load for the 100 grain Hornady SP. I went to the Tikka with the longer twist, tried both IMR4064 and H4350 at min load, 77 mm cartridge length, leaving several mm to the lands. The 4350 was better - around 1.5 MOA. I think I can get it better with more work - its too cold to shoot these days!
 
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