686 advice needed. Holster/spring kit

Lobster_pot

Lobster_pot

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Hey guys. Just picked up a 686 4.2". It's a life long keeper. Thinking of getting a nice holster. What are your guys suggestions for best holster? I was thinking about a kydex holster from solely Canadian. I know they make a very nice holster. Any experiences with kydex and revolvers? I'd like for it to be held securely but without a strap over the hammer.

Also the trigger is pretty great just the way it is. But I've been looking at the wilson combat custom tune spring kit. Any experiences? Is it worth it?

Enough talk time for family photos!!


 
Clean up the internal lockworks carefully, remove all the rough edges and burrs with a stone (used very lightly). I've used a lot of Wolf spring kits in S&W revolvers, they come with different rate springs in them so you can tune the action to get it the way you want. Then use a super slippery lube, and you will be amazed at the difference. - dan
 
dan belisle said:
Clean up the internal lockworks carefully, remove all the rough edges and burrs with a stone (used very lightly). I've used a lot of Wolf spring kits in S&W revolvers, they come with different rate springs in them so you can tune the action to get it the way you want. Then use a super slippery lube, and you will be amazed at the difference. - dan
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Thanks for the advice! I will try. Any certain stone I should use? Grit?? Not sure how they rate stones. Could I use something less abrasive and more elbow grease? I would like to take it slow so I don't mess anything up.
What about internal lock? Can it be removed? Will it improve action?
 
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When I polished up the internals of my S&W 617 I used mineral oil on crocus cloth. If I remember correctly it was 3M branded cloth in 2000, 4000 and 6000 grits. My revolver was new out of the box and the internals were full of tool marks, burrs and even a tiny amount of swarf. Stoning the trigger engagement points was the only part I was a little nervous about. I did a very small amount of polishing on theses surfaces and the results were well worth the effort. Once everything was put back together the trigger pull was a lot smoother and the lock time was faster. Good luck with your polishing!
 
I'd recommend the Wolf springs as well. I've used the reduced power rebound slide spring in a couple guns and it makes a pretty big difference. But don't go too low, or your trigger won't reset when shooting quickly. For stones, I use a piece of hard Arkansas stone that broke off my knife sharpening stone during shipping and just resurface it with the side of the wheel of my bench grinder when needed.
Kristian
 
Blade tech has made me a number of revolver holsters. Kydex, but they wear like iron. Light, durable and very positive retention, but still draw and holster smoothly.

Spyderco markets a set of small extra fine stones for doing the edges on serrated blades, they work very well for polishing tight hard to get areas, and hold their corners well if you don't abuse them
 
Cocked&Locked said:
Blade tech has made me a number of revolver holsters. Kydex, but they wear like iron. Light, durable and very positive retention, but still draw and holster smoothly.

Spyderco markets a set of small extra fine stones for doing the edges on serrated blades, they work very well for polishing tight hard to get areas, and hold their corners well if you don't abuse them
Click to expand...


Thanks for the tips!! Think I'll go with a custom made kydex. I was looking at the fobus one zahal has. Might pick one up to hold me over until I get my custom one. Here's a link to that one. Anybody try these?

http://www.zahal.org/products/fobus-holster-for-l-and-k-frame-4-revolvers?path_parent=218403
 
the fobus will work, but you probably won't be happy with it. I find they're hit or miss, i'm 50% with them. That said i have a friend who has one for a GP 100 that works very well. Can't beat em for price though
 
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