686 replacement barrel

Thats got the full under lug on it now...if you want more get a slip on weight and that should be plenty! Contact rpg to see if that barrel is avaiable.

What type of shooting are you planning on doing.
 
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mostly just target. im just starting out. i just like the fact that it has the built in picatinny rail and i dont have to remove my rear sight. so if i want to shoot irons sights i just take off my red dot or scope or put it on if i want.
thanks
evan
 
Evan - Tell me more about this barrel. I have a 686 with a 6" barrel that I want to replace with a 4 1/4" barrel and the rpgfirearms.com.au barrel looks perfect. How did you get it and how much did it cost?

Thanks for the info, Jay
 
That other 686 pictured is a Performance Center model. Given that those models are limited editions to begin with, I highly doubt Smith & Wesson makes spare barrels in that style.

What's more, PC models are high quality works of craftsmanship and detail; sticking a PC barrel on a regular 686 seems a bit... blasphemous? I'm still scratching my head as to why you didn't buy the 686PC to begin with.
 
Taken from pbpfirearms web site.

WELCOME TO
RPG ESTATE FIREARMS


They are an estate auction house. You need to find out if that is an original S&W barrel.
 
here is the scoop:
i phoned s&w USA cause they will only sell and install a barrel. they will only let you send the gun in and install the barrel and then ship it back, and here is the kicker. they will not sell performance center barrels :( so SOL...

but me being the machinist i am (and not wanting to have to get rid of my rear sight), i'm working on some solid works drawings and am going to machine the barrel and then drill + tap the barrel for the rail. it will be about 3 inches long and be a mil spec picatinny rail. i am going to use a nightforce aluminum blank to start with to eliminate some machining time.

the rail will be low enough that you could take your scope off and still use open sights and reinstall a scope/red dot or whatever...whenever.

i will post some pics of the barrel drawn in 3d if i can figure out how to post pics lol
maybe later tonight
thanks
evan
 
oh and i didnt by the 686PC because its a s*it load more. i got this one used for 650.

and there really isnt much difference between the 686 pc and the regular one other than the barrel is there? maybe some trigger pull stuff?
 
I have a model 629PC so I can only speak for that one, but there's a HUGE difference in finish and overall quality; it also has desirable features (that used to be standard) like forged trigger and hammer, pinned sear, etc. And yes, as you mentioned, the trigger pull is insanely smooth compared to standard models.
 
here is my ideas for machining. the picatinny rail has no holes in it cause i was lazy. but here is the idea.
bc51d9ed68.jpg


a7eca66d5c.jpg


so that shows how i will machine it. it leaves about .250 between where i machine down and the inside of the barrel. if you have any suggestions let me know. i was thinking i would use a #6 countersink machine screw and tap down .125 (1/8) do i need this much or more??? thanks
evan
 
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Another thought, if you are a machinest, what about cutting a
3/8" dovetail in the top , would be much neater and using a
high grade set of 3/8" rings on your scope or site???

P.S. you sure draw a neat picture
 
lol just wanted you guys to see all the detail ;) will resize next time.
i was even thinking of doing a dovetail with some flat spots for a set screw on each side. then i wouldnt have to drill and tap. i will draw up my idea and post
evan
 
evan_880 said:
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i was even thinking of doing a dovetail with some flat spots for a set screw on each side. then i wouldnt have to drill and tap. i will draw up my idea and post
evan
Click to expand...

Hmmm....this is giving me ideas for a light rail on my Springfield Armory 1911 A1. (Like I need another project!)

:) Stuart
 
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