6mm build

Well now you have me all weirded out on SS tumbling. I havent noticed any issues with it so far, certainly not anyting that noticable on my case mouths. I only let them tumble for 3-4 hours though.

Maybe I will just go back to standard walnut media....

I really liked the way it cleaned up the primer pockets though. Felt like it actually removed a step in the process for me.
 
Not to stir up the pot anymore but SR Lapua palma brass is far from dominant in FTR in NA. Some shooters use it of course, but others don't. A number don't even shoot lapua brass.

The sport is constantly evolving and the rate of change is impressive - FTR is moving far faster then Open at this time. The SR brass definitely can work in certain situation but it is not a solution for all the possible loadings you will see at a larger NA match. So the best thing is to test all your components to see if that combo will suit you needs under the conditions you will compete in.

And don't be surprised if last years "hot load" is truly yesterdays news....

As for clearance, I suggest 5 to 6 thou PER SIDE for sports like F class and PRS. Lots of shooting, possibility of rain and dirt... things get dirty real fast and having more clearance is never a bad thing. Simple test... if the bullet doesn't fall freely into your fired case neck, you do not have enough clearance.... not for these sports.

Outside neck turning is critical to setting this up and maintaining consistency. So will proper annealing, Trimming and Chamfering. Pay attention to the case necks... THIS is where accuracy can be improved or drive you insane.

I love it when a competitor set up for no turn chambers and loading. Sooner or later, they will give me points.

I do not use SS or ultrasonic cleaning.... I see more problems then it solves.

For a point of reference, FTR rifles are now shooting with a similar level of accuracy to F Open rifles. The gap in drift is also closing... go to a big US match and don't be surprised to see FTR shooters winning relays and scoring similar to Open.

YMMV....

Jerry
 
Schecter 81 said:
Well now you have me all weirded out on SS tumbling. I havent noticed any issues with it so far, certainly not anyting that noticable on my case mouths. I only let them tumble for 3-4 hours though.

Maybe I will just go back to standard walnut media....

I really liked the way it cleaned up the primer pockets though. Felt like it actually removed a step in the process for me.
Click to expand...

What effect it has depends on your chamber. A SAAMI factory chamber or a chamber on a military rifle like an AI or PGWDTI will have enough clearance because it was designed to use factory ammo (which has peened case mouths). Where people get into trouble is with custom chambers. They're told that for the best accuracy they want a tighter neck. But, they want to shoot factory ammo and/or unturned reloads. They design a reamer with very little clearance, and that clearance is based off of the loaded neck diameter, not the diameter at the peened case mouth.

If you want to design a chamber to shoot brass right out of the box without having to remove the burr, you need to measure the case neck diameter at the burr (including it) and add the clearance to that.
 
Mystic Precision said:
As for clearance, I suggest 5 to 6 thou PER SIDE for sports like F class and PRS. Lots of shooting, possibility of rain and dirt... things get dirty real fast and having more clearance is never a bad thing. Simple test... if the bullet doesn't fall freely into your fired case neck, you do not have enough clearance.... not for these sports.

Jerry
Click to expand...

I'm surprised that you would recommend .005 to .006" per side. That's .010 to .012" on the diameter and that is real sloppy by most neck turner standards.
I would conclude that's why you are annealing your brass so frequently - you are work hardening it by resizing so much.

I use more like .002" per side and I use the appropriate bushing from a Redding bushing die as a go gage on loaded rounds.
Suppose you have .012 neck wall thickness plus .308 for the bullet gives you a .332 outside diameter.
If you slide a .333 bushing over the loaded neck and it binds, you know the neck thickness on that round is oversize, in which case I'll try incrementally sliding a .334 bushing and up until I know just how big it is. If the neck is determined to be unsafe, I'll empty it out and turn the neck again.

Keeping the neck clearance tight reduces the opportunity to induce case/neck runout during resize and it significantly reduces the opportunity to work harden the brass.

Sometimes - I sort my ammo by what size bushing fits over the neck. (in addition to total overall weight.)

Also by throating the chamber to keep the bullet forward of the donut you can alleviate your fears of that having any affect when running tight neck clearances. Before doing this you better be real sure what bullet you like because changing the bullet can require changing the throat.
 
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sikwhiskey said:
What is a good neck turning tool? I would like one that works for different calibers and save time, I have a k&n hand turn, it's way to slow.
Click to expand...

I use the Forster outside neck turner that works with their case trimmer. I then add the power adaptor and a 12V 1/4" driver does the work for me. It takes me about the same time to clean a primer pocket as it does to turn a neck.

For trimming, I use the Forster 3-in-1 cutter/trimmer/deburr head on a separate trimmer. Set up, powered - FAST. I process alot of brass and doing anything by hand is beyond painful. Let me know if you would like some stuff

BAM, I have essentially gone back to SAAMI type clearance in the neck area. Shooting in the rain, you quickly realise there is no way to ensure every neck is going to be bone dry. So the gap IS large (like an extra piece of paper more), but I shoot with a degree of confidence that I am not likely to get a "spiked" shot due to internal woes.

How often do you hear of a weather related problem in a hunting rifle? That is the type of reliability I want. The rest of the chamber is set up for precision stuff so the accuracy is still there. Just ensures the bullets get a good start down the pipe.

Because I anneal, the risks of neck splits is also low. Can't remember the last time a match prepped case split a neck.

yes, 12 thou thick necks for me.... I outside neck turn all match ammo and pretty much every firing. I don't expect nor worry on oversized necks for loaded ammo. The odds of getting a fat Berger is so small, I can't be bothered worrying about it.

Jerry
 
sikwhiskey said:
What is a good neck turning tool? I would like one that works for different calibers and save time, I have a k&n hand turn, it's way to slow.
Click to expand...

Forester neck turning and trim tool with the power adapter for using a drill press.
Once adjusted you can trim and turn hundreds quickly.
powertrimmer-0.jpg
 
http://bulletin.accurateshooter.com...l-flash-holes-in-308-win-brass/#comment-48174

Here you go some comparisons of SR brass with small (0.060") and standard sized flash holes (0.080") to add to the mix of confusion.

Also read down the page to the shooter comments... the third comment is very interesting.

Fun, fun, fun... keep testing guys. Somethings work in some applications. Somethings do not but only busting primers and putting holes in paper will answer your questions.

Jerry
 
I like this comment...

What does it all mean?
Small primer pockets are good for high pressure.
Large primers are good for igniting powder.
 
If only there was a reasonably priced and available 6XC factory offering...

Maybe one of the distributors can explain this to me:

Lapua 6.5x47L brass: US$105 per 100, CAN$132 per 100

Norma 6XC brass: US$89 per 100, CAN$172 per 100
 
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sikwhiskey said:
What is a good neck turning tool? I would like one that works for different calibers and save time, I have a k&n hand turn, it's way to slow.
Click to expand...

I use the K&N but ordered the Power Drill adapter with it. Turns reasonably quick. The biggest problem is the cutter assembly getting hot in the hand and having to let it cool off or wear a glove.

Did 100 6x47 in an hour two nights ago.

I also use the RCBS 3-way trim pro for trimming to length and chamfer/debur. Would really like to get the Giraurd at some point.
 
At least we are inline with exchange rate!

Come to National FClass Championship and watch SRP's ignite just fine.

Regards,

Peter
Lapua in Canada
 
I'm not worried about the summer, what concerns me is when it's freezing out. F-Class doesn't shoot in the winter, but some of the tac matches in the northern states are held in sub-zero weather.

No interest in bringing in Norma?
 
That post mentioned CFE, a ball powder, which aren't known for being easy to light right? Not every experiment works, weird one anyway as there's a few powders that easily push 120's very fast in regular 260lapua brass and decent brass life.

I've done some early experimenting with 308palma brass, H4350, N160, and 220 scenars... didn't have one not light up. Will try more eventually, and some with regular primer brass as well.

Its quite possible to be more of an issue in winter, and light firing pins don't help with small primers.
 
The 6x47 is finally built! Time to get out and start the load development!!

Going to trying IMR 4451 with the Lapua 105's that I scooped from Peter.

Again, big thanks for sponsoring the Alberta Poker Rally Peter. Everyone was really pumped this weekend. It was a HUGE success!! Just wish I would have had the 6x47 running for it!

All parts and services for this built where provided by sponsors of the Poker Rally. (excluding the barrel)

Rifle built by Steve Emblin at EMP Rifles
Cerakoted and etched by Rich at Spartan Precision
MDT HS3 Chassis and Skeleton Stock
Trigger Tech trigger
Benchmark 5R barrel



 
Got a few hundred rounds out of it now and it is a real pleasure to shoot. Getting a nice consistent 1/2 moa shooter out of it with out any real work on the load development.
This was all shot from bipod with rear bag.

This is the load I settled on. Velocity is 3,030fps. Held 1/2 -1 moa out to 700yards nicely.


There was another nice node but was just way to slow.


Pulled the first shot. This is what happens when your shooting partner pulls the trigger of a 338 Snipetac right beside you and the muzzle brake blows your data book across your shooting mat!
 
Think I'm going to build a 6x47L too.

Anyone have a no-turn reamer for this? Preferably Whitley's 6mmHOT version or similar?
 
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