6mmbr trajectory

marlin1895gs

marlin1895gs

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Medicine Hat / Southern Manitoba
do any of you have it written down how many 'clicks' it is out to specific distances like 200, 300, - ### type thing? i finally got a chance to shoot past 300 yesterday, and managed to break clays out to 600. furthest i tried. my rough estimations are as follows:

from 100 yd zero

12 clicks to 200
14 clicks to 300
16 clicks to 400
18 clicks to 500
20 clicks to 600

i can't be tooo far off, but do any of you have any advice for me? im quite inexperienced at long range shooting stuff. just basically worked up a load and shot paper with 'er so far.
 
Don't use "Clicks" use your minutes marked on the scope.

4 clicks on a 1/4 MOA scope is 1 MOA
4 clicks on an 1/8 MOA scope is 1/2 MOA

I know approximately that my 6BR come ups are as follows at Vokes Range in Chilliwack:
300M - 400M is around 2.5-3 minutes (3 minutes turns out to be 24 "clicks" on my particular scope)
400 - 500 is another 3 minutes
500 - 600 is about 3 1/2 minutes from the previous setting
Going out further from here gets into even more minutes of angle per range.

This also can change from day to day on the exact same range.

Moving from one range to the next will change things significantly.

Learn to use a ballistics calculator such as JBM Ballistics but remember that it is only as accurate as the data provided. The more accurate the data entered, the more accurate the data it will supply you with.
 
hm, ya i'll have to do some more research. maybe get some flip caps and do the scope dope thing! i just have a 6-24 balvar, 0moa windage adjustable one peice burris mount. not sure quite how many clicks i have, but i hope to find out soon!


shiiit, i guess i can start off by reading the sticky. sorry bout that
 
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I use the Night Force Ballistics Calculator and it will print the charts out to 2000 yrds in MOA , MILS , OR total clicks both in 1/4 MOA clicks or 1/8 MOA clicks. I'm not sure on your setup (rifle,bullet,scope,velocity,ect), but with my 6BR shooting 105 Berger VLDs with a velocity of 2800 FPS I am about 13.25 MOA at 600 yrds with a 100 yrd zero. That is about + or - 52 clicks on a NF with 1/4 MOA clicks.
 
What I use will probably get you on paper: Shoots 1/4 MOA
Up 5 clicks to 200
Up 8 more to 300
Up 8 more to 400
Up 11 more to 500
Using 30.7 of R15 and 90grn scenars.
Using 105s is only a couple more clicks along the way.
Note: Temp or wind variance make a big difference at times.
The best way is simply doing the counts going back yourself, all guns are different.

From what I am reading in yours I am thinking you have 1/8 clicks or a very very light load.
 
i'll definitely check out the calculator and nightforce sight, thanks guys

does that r15 produce a bit more velocity maybe? im 1/4 clicks, and use 30.2 varget , 107smk touching the lands, cci 450, 28" gaillard tube with a straight shot gunsmithing 'V port' vaporizor brake with the clicks i posted above there, i did manage to hit clays out to 600, although the 500, and 600 took a couple tries. and there was quite the mirage so i could have maybe held 'er a little on the low side, might be able to get away with less. don't have a chrono either. yet
 
i wanna figure out how far i can go with my scope next time i take it out, and i'd consider undoing the rings on that base and throw a peice of pop can under the rear ring, then maybe zero for 2-300. i have a 20 moa base and a set of rings for it, but it puts the 6-24x40 balvar too far up high and it looks kinda dumb, even with low 'zee' rings. what do you guys think i could get for that scope? including the rings and one peice windage adjustable base, i'd like to even get a falcon scope in trade, but a 25x one.
 
Farrel 20MOA base and a set of low or medium TPS rings should do the trick for your scope. This may or may not allow you to zero at under 300M.

I know a few shooters that cannot zero below that range and I found that my Savage LRPV with a 20moa base will barely zero at 300m. My 2 XR-100's in 6BR and my 6.5-08 HABU will all zero att 100 and still reach out to 900M.

If you are planning on shooting at that range and beyond then you should have no problem. If you are going to be shooting a lot at 100-200 then you may want to look at going another route.
 
would that combo be any lower then my egw 20 moa base and low 'zee' rings? i put them on and it just makes that scope look like its up way to high, mind you its 1/4" from the barrel now.. wouldn't mind getting a mildot or something also, although this balvar has had an extra fine reticle installed. good for load testing
 
Re 15 got me better results. 29.5 gr pushing a 105 Lapua (107 sierra will work too)
More velocity won't necessarily get you what you want, I had to back mine off and the groups got alot better.

M.
 
I use

JBM Ballistics calculator that is free on line. It is petty darn close.

You can print cards for various velocities or crosswinds and have some pretty quick reference to get you REAL close. Then just fine tune from there.

I shot just over a week ago on the farm at my 700 yard gong with gusts in the 20mph mark at a approx 90deg crosswind. I was on the gong on my second shot and just had to fine tune. It is amazing how much easier it is with a tool at hand like JBM to help out.

When you can shoot at that distance in that kind of crosswind it uts a smile on your face when you never miss and se your hits getting pretty darn close together.

I am starting to realize the benefits of testing after initial load development at 100 to really see what or if the load is really capable.

CBY
 
+1 on the recommendation to use "JBM".

For a start, assume your scope has 1/4 minute adjustments and use the velocities indicated by factory data or reloading tables. This is likely "good enough" to get you "on" anywhere from 100 to 600 yards.

For an improvement, measure your actual velocity (get or borrow a chronograph), and measure the actual amount of movement that one click (or fifty clicks) gives you (put up a big piece of paper at a measured 100 yards, fire a group, move a bunch, fire another group, and measure actual point of impact shift). This level of attention is appropriate if you want to get your first sighter within a minute or two (10" to 20") of your point of aim at 1000 yards.
 
i looked at it there for a few mins, sure looked complicated so i been lookin around for a simpler program to use, but maybe i'll have to figure it out. gotta wait for a cloudy day to get out there again, hard time with those mirages.. approximately how high would i have to lift my rear ring to equal what a 20 moa base would?
 
If your scope rings are 3.6" apart, then one thou of movement is one MOA. So to point your scope down 20 MOA, you'd need to raise the rear by 20, or lower the front by 20, or raise the rear by 10 and lower the front by 10, etc.

(in practice the scope rings are close enough to being that distance apart, that you can just go ahead with the simple assumption of "one thou is one MOA").

It's easier to see a clear target image on an overcast day, but many shooters prefer to shoot with visible mirage than without; mirage is a very useful wind indicator. Benchrest shooters (I'm not one) may be an exception to this; they get to use a sophisticated array of flags, so they might do better on a perfectly clear seeing day (no visible mirage) - I dunno, ask one to be sure.

JBM offers lots of options, but the only things you really need to use to get something useful out of it to start with are:

- muzzle velocity
- bullet (choose some approximately representative bullet from the available list).
 
marlin1895gs the NF program isn't online, you have to buy that one. I got mine from Peter Dobson, at Hirsch Precision and you can get it for a palm pilot as well.
 
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