7.62 x 39 brass ammo

I have a fair number of wheelweights. Assuming, that I am able to refine it acceptably, I am looking at 4 cent projectiles (.311 gas check). The primer (berdan) is 6 cents shipped. Powder charge - 6 cents for WC735. That is 16 cents plus brass costs.

The powder would be much cleaner to shoot and the lead projeciles more friendly to AR400 gong. Now - I just need to find the time...
 
NaviDave said:
I have a fair number of wheelweights. Assuming, that I am able to refine it acceptably, I am looking at 4 cent projectiles (.311 gas check). The primer (berdan) is 6 cents shipped. Powder charge - 6 cents for WC735. That is 16 cents plus brass costs.

The powder would be much cleaner to shoot and the lead projeciles more friendly to AR400 gong. Now - I just need to find the time...
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Would be a fun little project, but the cost of this lebaron ammo is just under 18 cents. Is it worth the time, speaking strictly from the financial point of view?

And im not a reloader but isnt the main issue the bredan primers and depriming the case??
 
You gotta think more than cost.
1. The reloads are non corrosive,( I assume), how much is non corr. ammo. now!
2. they would most likely be more accurate.
3. You can chose which projectile you want, depending on your expected use.
4. Possible future shortage of 7.62x39, maybe not likely but price could go up again!
5. Lottsa folks enjoy reloading their own ammo!
Hey and yesterday was Earth day so the 3 r's,,Recycle, reuse and RELOAD!!!
:D :D :ar15:
 
I am dying to try water, wood dowel and a hammer to remove berdan primers.

Just have to remove the decapping pin on the sizing die.
 
NaviDave said:
I am dying to try water, wood dowel and a hammer to remove berdan primers.

Just have to remove the decapping pin on the sizing die.
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What will work better is if you can find a proper diameter (.311") expander die like those used for handgun cartridge reloading. The Lyman M die would work.
http://www.lymanproducts.com/lyman/dies/rifle-die-details.php?brand=3&cartridge=26&die=52

Then you fill the case with water and run it into the die. The hydraulic pressure pops the primer out although lacquer sealed primers might be a problem. It's a bit messy because you get water all over the place but that going to happen with water and wooden dowel method also. Just be sure to dry and oil the die when you're done. I used this technique to deprime berdan 9mm Steyr pistol cases before boxer ones were available & it worked well.

Its a bit pricey but RCBS also makes a mechanical berdan decapper:
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/245983/rcbs-berdan-decapping-tool?productNumber=245983

Lastly, this looks like the cat's a$$ for berdan depriming & it's cheap:
http://theswissriflesdotcommessageboard.yuku.com/topic/2310/An-Uninteresting-Berdan-Decapping-Tool-but-cheap?page=1
 
lejarretnoir said:
If you drill for boxer you'll likely end up with three holes or an extra enlarged single hole. The large rifle primer may also not fit. I don't think they are the same size. Either too tight or too loose.
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That is correct. Unlike boxer primers which basically only come in two sizes (small & large) there are several sizes of berdan primers. Not only are the diameters different from boxer primers but they are not as thick so boxer primers will protrude above the primer pocket (never a good idea). You could deepen the berdan primer pockets with a proper diameter end mill but you still have the problem of different diameter primers. If you really are determined to do this you need to find berdan primers.
 
Hello

I just picked up some 7.62, 720 round in a sealed can, that is marked 1966 with Chinese writing. Copper casings, any details about this stuff?
 
just picked up a case at le baron, definately not brass cased................ not super impressed :p

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^Not all of the lots are brass cased, seems to be luck of the draw.

In terms of reloading berdan primed brass cases check out Iraqveteran8888 on youtube, he has a couple vids on how he does it, it doesnt look all that hard once you get it down, and like it has been stated, don't mess with a drill, just buy some berdan primers. Also I would be careful and make sure it is decent quality brass, some milsurp stuff can be pretty terrible quality.

Really though if you want to just mess around with loading it might be easier to just buy a couple boxes of boxer primed new production ammo.
 
AlbertaGunslinger said:
^Not all of the lots are brass cased, seems to be luck of the draw.

In terms of reloading berdan primed brass cases check out Iraqveteran8888 on youtube, he has a couple vids on how he does it, it doesnt look all that hard once you get it down, and like it has been stated, don't mess with a drill, just buy some berdan primers. Also I would be careful and make sure it is decent quality brass, some milsurp stuff can be pretty terrible quality.

Really though if you want to just mess around with loading it might be easier to just buy a couple boxes of boxer primed new production ammo.
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x2 :agree:

I have two cases from LeBarons, one green lacquer, the other copper washed. Some guys reload berdan GP11 brass because it's good quality. The brass milsurp berdan 7.62x39 I've had in the past is hit or miss quality wise. Lots of split necks after firing.
 
deagle2008 said:
also OP ive never heard of steel jacketed bullets ? do you mean steel core copper jacket
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Nope.. I mean steel jacket on the outside of the bullet.. The insides are lead.

I dont know where the steel core idea came from,.. probably from people not knowing the outside jacket is made from steel and when putting a magnet to it.. it sticks so believe theres a steel core inside...

WRONG .. its a steel jacket on the outside, just copper washed so it wont rust, but looks like copper.

Sorry ... but now you know the truth..:cool:
 
7mmlefty said:
Nope.. I mean steel jacket on the outside of the bullet.. The insides are lead.

I dont know where the steel core idea came from,.. probably from people not knowing the outside jacket is made from steel and when putting a magnet to it.. it sticks so believe theres a steel core inside...

WRONG .. its a steel jacket on the outside, just copper washed so it wont rust, but looks like copper.

Sorry ... but now you know the truth..:cool:
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You sure about that? I just bisected one of the bullets of my Romanian M43 (steel cased) and it has a steel core, thin layer of what I assume is lead (its soft and doesn't take a polish), then a steel jacket thinly plated in copper.
 
diemaco said:
You sure about that? I just bisected one of the bullets of my Romanian M43 (steel cased) and it has a steel core, thin layer of what I assume is lead (its soft and doesn't take a polish), then a steel jacket thinly plated in copper.
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I am wrong!.. they do have a steel core. I disected a few tonight and they were steel core.
I just always thought they were lead inside, and when you put a magnet to the bullet.. it sticks to the steel jacket.
 
Picked up two crates of ammo from lebaron in mississauga yesterday. Luck of the draw as i literally took two crates side by side but i got one brass and one green lacquer.

I just looked at the cases and the brass one says 30Kg and green lacquer says 29KG, also the brass is marked as PSGL and the other one as PSGS.

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While i was in there i also picked up a 1951 refurb Tula SKS, $188. All in all, the best deal around even though me asking if they have a Savage Mark II in stock resulted in a pissed off answer of "yea tons!" Even though they didnt have 3 of the models i was looking for. :owned:

Told my buddy today and ran over after work and got himself a 1953 Tula and a crate of ammo....green lacquer as well.
 
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