7.62x39 Chezch Milsurp Corrosive issues?

I just clean as soon as I get home from the range with brake cleaner, then run some Hoppes #9 through a patch (barrel, gas tube assembly , bolt, carrier). I have put a case through mine and it's still like new...easy and it works for me;)
 
harbl_the_cat said:
Can anyone make a youtube video or photographic guide of what to clean and how?
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If you see carbon on it, wipe it off with some CLP, or anything with ammonia in it. Pretty self-explainitory.

God... I don't know how all of those VC managed to keep their AK's and SKS's together while crawling through those jungle tunnels all those years ago. It's a miracle their rifles didn't fall apart after a mag or two of *corrosive* ammo.

:rolleyes:
 
I always disassemble and clean my SKS and CZ ASAP every time I shot them regardless, I figure that way there is no problems and the gun will last longer. I use bore cleaner, metal protector and some gun oil for cleaning it.

Cheers,
Evan
 
Metropolis said:
I just clean as soon as I get home from the range with brake cleaner, then run some Hoppes #9 through a patch (barrel, gas tube assembly , bolt, carrier). I have put a case through mine and it's still like new...easy and it works for me;)
Click to expand...

Grrrrr. Someone did this to my duty pistol before I received it. I couldn't figure out why the damn slide was scratching the rails so bad. The pistol actually felt brittle. Oil didn't really seem to help much the entire pistol felt dry. It removes all of the oil from the metal. G96 works so well because it's a metal conditioner and gets into the pours of the metal which protects it, and also makes getting rid of carbon a simple matter of just wiping it off for everything except the barrel.

They actually forbid using brake cleaner in the RCMP because of this. If you're going to use brake cleaner make sure to follow it up with a very good metal conditioner. Regular oil doesn't seem to fix the problem fast enough.
 
It all depends on the humidity levels where you store the rifle. The salt doesnt cause rust if there is no humidity to provide the necessary reaction to form rust. Here is an excellent experiment with a bunch of solvents, and even windex, but the author is clear ammonia is not the active ingredient that affects the salts it is the water.

http://www.surplusrifle.com/reviews2006/alittlesalt/index.asp

My vote goes to hot or boiling water, followed by a serious clean obviously.
 
TYLER;
You mean you did not know that the VC issued at least two spare barrels which each rifle, the simple act of firing one round will cause the IMMEDIATE onet of evil events....Sort of like VD for guns, the barrel falls off
John
 
Here's my 2 cents.

The rifle cost 199 dollars.....If it cost a $Grand maybe then, I am being meticulous with it. I clean it everytime i shoot it, but i don"t go apesh!t over it. I clean it like any other gun, with Bore solvent and oil.

Windex....Boiling Water....WTF?

I just think this whole corrosive issue went way overboard.
 
johnone said:
TYLER;
You mean you did not know that the VC issued at least two spare barrels which each rifle, the simple act of firing one round will cause the IMMEDIATE onet of evil events....Sort of like VD for guns, the barrel falls off
John
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I wonder how they dealt with changing those nasty pinned barrels in such low-light conditions and with such rudimentary tools. :D

I always wondered why Windex made so much profit in Asia, until now... :p
 
cyclic said:
Here's my 2 cents.

The rifle cost 199 dollars.....If it cost a $Grand maybe then, I am being meticulous with it. I clean it everytime i shoot it, but i don"t go apesh!t over it. I clean it like any other gun, with Bore solvent and oil.

Windex....Boiling Water....WTF?

I just think this whole corrosive issue went way overboard.
Click to expand...

:rockOn:

But I don't have thousand dollar guns to waste my time and energy on! Besides, I need to take care of my SKS investments that some say is going to be the Lee-Enfield of the future.

Seriously, I clean and lube my SKS just like my other firearms when I get home from the range...with Ed's Red and G96.

Just to prove a point, I tried spraying all the metal parts with WD40, where I can reach inside and out. After 3 months, no rust.
 
harbl_the_cat said:
Can anyone make a youtube video or photographic guide of what to clean and how?
Click to expand...

Please tell me that you're kidding. A SKS or a VZ58 are both idiot simple to field strip. A basic understanding of how a gas operated semi works should tell you where to clean. Flush with boiling water, swab with solvent(after the metal cools down), then give a light coat of oil.

Are you an Albertan or did you just move here?
 
cyclic said:
Here's my 2 cents.

The rifle cost 199 dollars.....If it cost a $Grand maybe then, I am being meticulous with it. I clean it everytime i shoot it, but i don"t go apesh!t over it. I clean it like any other gun, with Bore solvent and oil.

Windex....Boiling Water....WTF?

I just think this whole corrosive issue went way overboard.
Click to expand...

Doesn't matter if the rifle cost 199$ or 1000$, treat them equal, good cleaning isn,t complicated and not so long to do when you are used to it. "this is your rifle, look after it and it will look after you":D
 
Question - how is one supposed to open the "sardine tin" inside the crate? Is there an order to peel the tabs or a specific tool I should use?
 
Hook said:
Please tell me that you're kidding. A SKS or a VZ58 are both idiot simple to field strip. A basic understanding of how a gas operated semi works should tell you where to clean. Flush with boiling water, swab with solvent(after the metal cools down), then give a light coat of oil.

Are you an Albertan or did you just move here?
Click to expand...

Born and mostly raised. Though I did live in Toronto for 2 years when I was a kid :p

I've seen some of the field strip videos and agree - the 858 looks a whole lot more simple than say, an AR. Just the whole idea of flushing with hot water seems very weird to me.
 
AK said:
Question - how is one supposed to open the "sardine tin" inside the crate? Is there an order to peel the tabs or a specific tool I should use?
Click to expand...

Use a set of vice grips and roll the strips like a sardine can. It does help to figure out which strip is on top. Try one if it looks like the overlapping strip is lifting roll it first.
 
A large screw driver to put through the loops and some "finesse" also worked. Although I risked injury. I'd recommend metal snips if you've got them.
 
I caved in and bought one today.

It's so easy to field strip and I think it actually is pretty obvious (and simple) how to clean it. Way more simple than my Norinco CQ556, about as simple as my M305.

Not sure about the hot water trick, but I think a thorough wipe down with CLP will do the trick andwhere there's exposure to gas. Thoughts?
 
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