7.62X39 Powder and Bullet in a .303

Drachenblut

Drachenblut

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Hello all,

I have spoken to a friend of mine and he has suggested that a good way to make some cheap, non corrosive reduced load .303 rounds is to pull the bullet and powder from a 7.62X39 Czech surplus shell, and dump the powder and bullet into a primered, reformed (sized in die) .303 case. He says it works well for shorter ranges up to 200 yards. I would like to know your opinions on this and suggestions before I try it.

Thanks Gun Gurus,
-Drachenblut
 
If you are intending to follow through with your buds idea, I would suggest getting load data for the .303. Compare the different load specs of the different powders and start with the lowest recommended grain value. Always measure your powder.
That is a plan "B" only. Plan "A" is load with fresh powder and go by the book..........Good Luck!!!!!
 
I can't see how that would be cost-effective, or effective in any other way.

At $0.22/round for a 7.62x39 bullet and powder, you could load a .303 bullet and whatever powder your data manual calls for and have some change left over, (depending on what bullets you choose) and have proper ammo that will actually function like it's supposed to.

If it were me, I'd just spend less money on proper components and make proper ammo.
 
Hey, I do this all the time (just the bullet, not the powder). I have to do something with the 123gr FMJ bullets I pull out of the cases and replace with 150's for hunting (I remove 2 gr of powder to prevent excess pressure). So I use them in my .303 to help me build deer hunting rounds for it. They are great for such workups. Get it closest and then switch to hunting tips to dial it right in. Also good for low pressure loads, but I would rather use the entire case than throw it away, and it lets me do some plinking for almost free.
 
Make sure your sizing die sizes the neck to provide enough neck tension. 7.62x39mm bullets can be slightly undersize and if the bullet isn't held securely by the neck, upon firing the primer will push it into the barrel throat without igniting the powder.
 
MILSPEC ammo often has a sealant applied to the bullet when seated in the case (US GI .30-06 used asphalt). Best idea with this is to seat the bullet a tad further with the seater die to break the seal before pulling.
There is quite a difference in weight between a 123 and 150gr bullet and the Czech powder is of unknown characteristics. I suspect that it would be too fast burning for a 150gr bullet in a .303 case, so I'd be inclined to use it for lawn fertilizer and load my .303 with known data powder.
 
Always use the Hornady bullet puller, or worst case the RCBS style. Never use the hammer type. The hammer type is for breaking down bad reloads, at best.
 
I have never had an issue with using the hammer type bullet puller, with commercial or military ammunition. It's an RCBS made one. What is this Hornady bullet puller you mention?
 
Drachenblut said:
I have never had an issue with using the hammer type bullet puller, with commercial or military ammunition. It's an RCBS made one. What is this Hornady bullet puller you mention?
Click to expand...
It is very slow, and will often not remove militay bullets. Hornady cam-lock puller is the best if you are a lot.
 
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