725 Skeet with tubes

brooksy08

brooksy08

CGN Regular
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Southern ontario
Any difference with the brand new 2018 725's? They have "mechanical triggers" that require inertia to switch over barrels. I just bought a 725 skeet, tried my 3/4 oz 12 gauge loads and they reset no problem. Tried my 20 gauge tubes with factory 7/8 oz loads, and no problem. All threads I've seen (mostly on shotgun world) on these guns and tubes are from 2012 or so when they still had generation 1 triggers. Usually have to send these to Briley or get a .410 gauge spring for them.

Is there any change or are they still having troubles switching barrels with 28 gauge and not working at all with .410 ?
 
If they require inertia to reset they're not mechanical. I had a Browning CXS in 20 GA with Briley 410 tubes. My local gunsmith switched out the trigger springs (about $20) and I never had a problem with 410 after that. If you have a gun with true mechanical triggers it's not a problem as they don't require recoil to function.

The CG's are very nice guns (one of the best value's out there at the moment), I bought my son a Blaser F16 (mechanical triggers) and if I was going to buy another gun for me, it's what I'd buy.
 
Inertia triggers will usually have trouble switching to the second barrel with smaller sub gauge tubes because they require recoil to reset. This is not a 1st and 2nd generation thing, it's just the difference between mechanical and inertia triggers. Your gun with mechanical triggers does not require recoil to reset the trigger to the second barrel.
 
Apparently, the older 725s have inertia triggers and the new ones have mechanical triggers. As stated above, the inertia triggers require recoil to set the second trigger and the mechanical triggers do not. Some (or perhaps all) of the inertia triggers can be adjusted by a qualified gunsmith to reset with lighter loads associated with the small sub-gauge shells. I do know that Kolar can do this with Berettas.
 
Beretta687EELL said:
Apparently, the older 725s have inertia triggers and the new ones have mechanical triggers. As stated above, the inertia triggers require recoil to set the second trigger and the mechanical triggers do not. Some (or perhaps all) of the inertia triggers can be adjusted by a qualified gunsmith to reset with lighter loads associated with the small sub-gauge shells. I do know that Kolar can do this with Berettas.
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I bought a 725 when they first came out, and they were advertised as having mechanical triggers then. Apparently Browning has their on idea of what constitutes a mechanical trigger. :p
 
stubblejumper said:
I bought a 725 when they first came out, and they were advertised as having mechanical triggers then. Apparently Browning has their on idea of what constitutes a mechanical trigger. :p
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Well, well, that is interesting. I was talking to someone two days ago that was shooting one and they told me what I posted above. It would be nice if someone that was knowledgeable about these things could take one of each of them apart and tell us what they see.
 
A friend of mine has one and he checked it tonight. It has mechanical triggers.

Added ... He pulled the trigger twice on snap caps and said both "fired". I'll have to check further and make sure that the noise he heard was actually the second hammer dropping. This is confusing ...
 
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I went over this morning and tried it myself ... I cocked both hammers, removed the barrel and fore end and put a snap cap in place in front of the bottom firing pin. Pulled the trigger and the firing pin hit the snap cap, I then moved the snap cap in front of the top firing pin and again pulled the trigger ... the top firing pin hit the snap cap. As I understand it, that is a mechanical trigger.
 
Beretta687EELL said:
I went over this morning and tried it myself ... I cocked both hammers, removed the barrel and fore end and put a snap cap in place in front of the bottom firing pin. Pulled the trigger and the firing pin hit the snap cap, I then moved the snap cap in front of the top firing pin and again pulled the trigger ... the top firing pin hit the snap cap. As I understand it, that is a mechanical trigger.
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And yet there are numerous reports of 725s not functioning with tubes. Briley apparently does trigger mods to guarantee reliable function with 28 and 410 tubes.
 
stubblejumper said:
And yet there are numerous reports of 725s not functioning with tubes. Briley apparently does trigger mods to guarantee reliable function with 28 and 410 tubes.
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Interesting ... I guess someone that knows the design and operation of triggers will need to take one apart and figure out what the problem is. I suspect that there is something hanging up and not allowing the trigger to function properly.
 
At my local club we have about 8 of these guns All are mechanical and all use tubes with no mods from a gunsmith. Hope this helps
 
Beretta687EELL said:
Interesting ... I guess someone that knows the design and operation of triggers will need to take one apart and figure out what the problem is. I suspect that there is something hanging up and not allowing the trigger to function properly.
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Unless I'm reading the OP incorrectly, he's asking IF he will have problems with 28 and 410, not that he IS having trouble. It sounds as if he hasn't tried 28 and 410 tubes yet but is speculating that the triggers may not work correctly.
 
Beretta687EELL said:
Interesting ... I guess someone that knows the design and operation of triggers will need to take one apart and figure out what the problem is. I suspect that there is something hanging up and not allowing the trigger to function properly.
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The strange thing is that people report that they can pull the trigger twice with 12 gauge snapcaps, with no issues, but when they switch to 28 or 410 loads in tubes, the trigger only operates once.
 
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