i traded for a remmy 788 a couple days ago in 308 win because i had about 20 boxes of norma ammo, my uncle was a hoarder/prepper. I mounted a leupold vx1 2-7 on it and off to the range. With norma 150gr ammo it gave me a 3 shot group of 5/8ths that was 1 inch above the bullseye. Are these rifles that good? Barrel is fully floated and the action is completely bedded. For a rifle that was the cheapest you could buy back in the day is this normal for these rifles?
788???
- Thread starter 6.5x55swm
- Start date
- Location
- Western Manitoba
Was my exact same experience when I got one for my wife, circa 1977. Multiple 3 shot and 5 shot groups less than an inch with a 3 power scope at 100 yards. There was about three of them through my hands - all have got 308 Win barrels on them now - at least one was 243 Win when I got it. Is two left here - one with a Boyd's laminated stock and one with Ramline synthetic stock - one of those two is very much a parts rifle - like from three or four separate purchases on CGN EE - a piece at a time. The one I built up for my wife has a severely hacked up original stock - is with my wife's brother on Vancouver Island now, wearing the same scope that OP mentions.
Yes they were and are that good. Mine mimics yours. Only problem I ever had was bolt sliding back when I lifted the rifle by its barrel and the bolt stop breaking. Now comes the one warning that you should hear be careful you never overload it if your into reloading. Bolt handles have been known to break off if you try and beat it open. Enjoy your new to you rifle
- Location
- Western Manitoba
millwright in Post #3 is absolutely correct about the bolt handle. In late 1970's / 1980's we lived in small village Central Saskatchewan - the Remington 788 in 22-250 was very popular with the "boyz" as a coyote rifle. My next door neighbour had one and fired his VERY FIRST hand load in it - and froze the bolt shut. Then used wood block and tapped that handle to open the gun - broke the handle off - bolt still frozen shut. Was months, and likely cost him what that rifle cost, to get that fixed. Who needs to work up loads when you have a buddy who can tell you a good loading to use?? I do not think that I ever got the full story about that hand load - I am sure he was using a Lee Loader - no doubt someone told him about a better powder or better bullet to use than the Lee Loader card said to use - if he read that thing. I do not know how he did that loading part.
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The bolt handle is attached by induction brazing. The root of the bolt handle has a peg which extends through the rear of the bolt body. There are two patterns of handles. The first version is straight, and the diameter of the bolt plug threads is larger than the second pattern. The second pattern's handle is slightly swept back. The plug threads are smaller in diameter, so the peg is longer - a bit more area for the brazing operation. Both handles can be detached if excessive force is applied. Because of the rear locking system, cases tend to stretch. This can lead to hard extraction, which can result in excessive force being applied to the handle. If handloading, watch your cases and avoid really hot loads. It is not a question of action strength; it is a matter of avoiding hard extraction.
I have reattached quite a few handles using silver braze. Anti-scale compound, heat stop paste and wet rags wrapped around the locking lugs are worthwhile. The locking lugs are close to where the handle is attached, and silver brazing requires red heat.
These rifles are accurate. Had the handle attachment design been better, perhaps a collar like post-64 Winchester M70s, the detached handle issue would have been non-existent. Replacement bolts are hard to find. These rifles have been out of production for years, and a lot of handles have been detached.
Another weak point is the little lug on the bottom of the receiver, to which the trigger assembly is pinned. This little block is a separate piece brazed to the bottom of the receiver. Critically important. Reattaching this piece is not fun.
I have reattached quite a few handles using silver braze. Anti-scale compound, heat stop paste and wet rags wrapped around the locking lugs are worthwhile. The locking lugs are close to where the handle is attached, and silver brazing requires red heat.
These rifles are accurate. Had the handle attachment design been better, perhaps a collar like post-64 Winchester M70s, the detached handle issue would have been non-existent. Replacement bolts are hard to find. These rifles have been out of production for years, and a lot of handles have been detached.
Another weak point is the little lug on the bottom of the receiver, to which the trigger assembly is pinned. This little block is a separate piece brazed to the bottom of the receiver. Critically important. Reattaching this piece is not fun.
- Location
- Western Manitoba
tiriaq - I have not had to deal with that trigger attachment lug, yet - but I can see it as a potential issue if it comes off. I worked on a couple of Schultz and Larsen rifles - it appears they used a thick tube as a receiver - then drilled various holes and threaded them - then screwed in pieces that got milled off like the block that would come off the Remington 788 trigger area. In your opinion, would that be a solution - if / when I manage to break one off??
That occurrence very likely came about because of the rear-locking feature of the M788. Aside from the issues with reloading for such a rifle (same as with the Schultz & Larsen rifles) wherein the brass stretches with several reloads with full-length resizing until a case-head separation occurs, an excessively hot load (which was probably the case cited by Millwright and with your next-door neighbour) will blow out the brass, particularly in the shoulder, so hard against the bolt that it will cause it to seize up, and be all-but immovable.
I've had a somewhat similar experience, although nowhere near to seizing the bolt, with a Schultz & Larsen rifle in 7x61 S&H. Everything is fine with moderate to fairly stout loads, but when I shot some Norma loaded ammunition in it recently, the bolt lift was stiffer than usual. It's known that Norma loaded their 7x61 S&H ammunition up to very high pressures--in order to come close to 7 Rem. Mag. velocities (but never able to quite match the 7 Rem. Mag. performance). Had the load been even heavier (making it well above any loading manual's recommendation), I think it might be possible to seize up the bolt on a S&L as well.
Just to follow up a little on my comments above, along with tiriaq's informative post, I found some empirical data on the case-stretching problem. In Stuart Otteson's excellent book The Bolt Action, Volume I, he states, about the Remington M788,
"While not required after each firing as with some non-bolt guns, occasional full-length resizing may be necessary in certain calibers to maintain smooth operation. Remington factory tests indicate that 22/250 cartridge cases, for example, required resizing each five to ten firings."
This isn't too bad and doesn't keep the M788 from being seen as a very good hunting rifle. For reloaders, the lesson is clear: don't push your loads above normal maximums.
"While not required after each firing as with some non-bolt guns, occasional full-length resizing may be necessary in certain calibers to maintain smooth operation. Remington factory tests indicate that 22/250 cartridge cases, for example, required resizing each five to ten firings."
This isn't too bad and doesn't keep the M788 from being seen as a very good hunting rifle. For reloaders, the lesson is clear: don't push your loads above normal maximums.
I inherited a 788 in 308 from my father when he passed. He used his rifles as tools and it looks well used from many years in the bush. I changed out the weaver fixed 4 power he had on it with a leupold 3x9 and low and behold it shot perfect cloverleafs when I sighted it in. Yes they are that good. I’d shoot mine in competition any day knowing it will usually shoot better than me.
Ive had a half dozen or so, in 223, 22-250, 6mm Rem, 25 Souper, 6mm-284 and 7mm-08. All good accurate rifles. Trigeers can be modified for adjustability, or a Timney or Canjar can be fit. - dan
- Location
- SE corner Sk
My Dad has a couple 788's haven't fired them yet.
john-brennan
CGN frequent flyer
- Location
- Vancouver Island B.C.
I had a 7-08 carbine (18.5" barrel) I believe and it was very accurate, did not fit me great I gave it to my son and he has shot alot of deer with it and still owns it after 17 years. The clip fell apart had to buy a new one but other than that it still shoots amazing.
Respecting bolt handle failures...
While it happens, and the method of attaching the bolt handle is inferior to that used in other designs, if a 788 has an intact bolt after years of use, it probably is not going to fail.
Just don't use brute force on the handle, and avoid situations which will produce hard extraction. Also avoid rust on the bolt plug threads. Rust there produces a situation where excess force may be applied to rotate the bolt to unlock.
A more serious issue with 788s is the availability of magazines. The little plastic magazine catch thumbpiece can break. The mag will still work but removing it is a pain. But getting a replacement or spare magazine will require a bit of a quest, and anything found is not likely to be cheap.
Bolt stops are also a weak point in the design. Little hardened steel peg; these can break off.
Right now, I'm sitting on a very nice 788/.308 from an estate. No bolt. No luck yet finding one. Maybe, sooner or later, one will turn up. Also have a 788/.308 carbine length barrel - should a rifle turn up with a spoiled barrel.
While it happens, and the method of attaching the bolt handle is inferior to that used in other designs, if a 788 has an intact bolt after years of use, it probably is not going to fail.
Just don't use brute force on the handle, and avoid situations which will produce hard extraction. Also avoid rust on the bolt plug threads. Rust there produces a situation where excess force may be applied to rotate the bolt to unlock.
A more serious issue with 788s is the availability of magazines. The little plastic magazine catch thumbpiece can break. The mag will still work but removing it is a pain. But getting a replacement or spare magazine will require a bit of a quest, and anything found is not likely to be cheap.
Bolt stops are also a weak point in the design. Little hardened steel peg; these can break off.
Right now, I'm sitting on a very nice 788/.308 from an estate. No bolt. No luck yet finding one. Maybe, sooner or later, one will turn up. Also have a 788/.308 carbine length barrel - should a rifle turn up with a spoiled barrel.
- Location
- Barrie Ont. Canada
