788???

A question was asked about installation of different bolt handles.
I experimentally repaired one as follows:
Obtained unfinished Savage 110 bolt handles from GPC.
Turned down the collar at the rear of the bolt body, leaving a shoulder.
Fitted the collar of the Savage handle to this turned down portion.
Blended the bolt handle collar to match.
Made sure the handle was properly oriented for operation and extraction camming.
Silver brazed handle in place.
Cut the cocking cam notch, matching what was left of the original.
This setup would be much stronger than the original pegged bolt handle. Some M70 bolts were made using a handle on a collar.

I'll dig the bolt body out of the bin and post photos.
 
Why not? said:
Dan, I currently have no 788 rifles but have been following this thread. You obviously are the guy to ask about making and then fitting a completely new bolt handle to these rifles.

Would there be any advantage to doing this rather than using the old one? In other words, are there any deficiencies in the original handle that could be addressed with the new handle?

Ted
Click to expand...



See post above

tiriaq,has accomplished the task. as described in post #41 above.

I have not had issues precision TIG welding the Rem 788 bar stock...not cast bolt handles to date.

There is preparation work to remove the silver/copper braze from both parts & to check/chase the threads of both parts.

Those who believe that Win 70 bolts/handles are 1 piece-
#### the firing pin
Swing the safety to mid position
Remove bolt assy from receiver
remove firing pin assy from bolt body
2 layers of material at firing pin cocking cam

Bingo....2 piece bolt/handle.
 
tiriaq said:
A question was asked about installation of different bolt handles.
I experimentally repaired one as follows:
Obtained unfinished Savage 110 bolt handles from GPC.
Turned down the collar at the rear of the bolt body, leaving a shoulder.
Fitted the collar of the Savage handle to this turned down portion.
Blended the bolt handle collar to match.
Made sure the handle was properly oriented for operation and extraction camming.
Silver brazed handle in place.
Cut the cocking cam notch, matching what was left of the original.
This setup would be much stronger than the original pegged bolt handle. Some M70 bolts were made using a handle on a collar.

I'll dig the bolt body out of the bin and post photos.
Click to expand...

This sounds interesting, I need to visualize the "Turned down the collar at the rear of the bolt body, leaving a shoulder" portion of the job
 
There is an enlarged ring in which the bolt plug threads are cut and to which the handle is attached. Part of the bolt body. I turned it down, leaving a collar at the forward end for the new handle to butt against. I'll dig out the bolt I experimented with and post photos. I think if Remington had designed the 788s this way, detached handles would have been rare. Production cost would have been higher using a collared handle rather than the simple piece turned from bar stock on an automatic lathe.

Most any bolt handle can be broken, given enough abuse. I've seen handles broken off Lee Enfields and Mausers - one piece bolts.
 
sgt.rock said:
Economy rifle meant something COMPLETELY different 50 years ago. They used great skill and materials but just cut the frills. Now they use poor skills, materials and design. There is no pride just price point now. Heritage items versus disposables. C"est la vie
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100% true!! I’d rather buy an old well made husky, cz, Brno than a new tikka, savage, browning etc
 
What? Is the bolt knob on a ring that is/was separate to the manufacture of the rest of the bolt body?!

That's something that could be scratched up in AutoCAD and ordered in batch from waterjet/machinist etc.
 
That bolt handle was adapted from an unfinished 110 Savage unit. The ring and handle are one piece. Rear of 788 bolt is turned down so handle ring will slide over. Oriented for camming, silver brazed in place, cocking camming notch cut to match the original.
The bolt body was a salvage grade from a scrapped .22-.250. Did the repair as an experiment.

If there were a market, ready to install replacement units could be made.

The silver braze I use is the silver paste/flux product from Brownells. Red het is required - do not let heat run to locking lugs.
 
tiriaq said:
That bolt handle was adapted from an unfinished 110 Savage unit. The ring and handle are one piece. Rear of 788 bolt is turned down so handle ring will slide over. Oriented for camming, silver brazed in place, cocking camming notch cut to match the original.
The bolt body was a salvage grade from a scrapped .22-.250. Did the repair as an experiment.

If there were a market, ready to install replacement units could be made.

The silver braze I use is the silver paste/flux product from Brownells. Red het is required - do not let heat run to locking lugs.
Click to expand...

Well thats too cool!

I did a batch of savage bolt handles via waterjet out of 6061-T6, I just got flat aluminum cut, and then shaped the profile, went with more of a "butterknife-bolt-handle" style profile so no need to spin on a lathe.

So, this is something that could be done in a large or smallish batch, and then either spun on a lathe for a conventional round bolt handle/knob, and done from regular steel, aluminum 6061 or 7075 or even titanium (order titanium from china probably but not overly expensively).

Could just do an approx size on the bolt handle (ID) and a gunsmith could take down the bolt body and silver solder or whatever to install.

I'm digging your simple solution for this.
 
The handle shank could be left small, and threaded, so custom knobs could be easily installed.

These rifles have been out of production for years. I suspect broken handles have either been reattached, or the bolts ruined in trying. No idea what the market would be like for a repair/replacement handle. If I had a bolt with a cleanly detached handle, I'd just re-attach it. DANS40X would TIG it back on, which might be the best solution for a skilled experienced TIG welder.
 
The 21st century version of the 788 are the Rem 710,715,770's.

The above are a three lug bolt head that is cross pinned to the bolt body.
The cross pin is held captive by the firing pin running thru it...aka AR-15/10 BCG Cam Pin.
The bolt handle has a knurled pin pressed into the handle to locate said handle to the bolt body which is then induction silver brazed.

Early models have a 1/4" pin in the handle.
Late models have a 1/8" pin in the handle & the bolt head & bolt body tube has a D shape counter bore in the forward end of the bolt body for the head to lock into to reduce stress on the cross pin.

Hundreds & hundreds repaired by precision TIG welding to date.
 
I have 4 of the 788s
Every one is about 1MOA.
I've never touched them as far a bedding etc. Didn't have to.
I have never run reloads out of them. Only factory ammo.
When you get MOA out of factory ammo - you don't really need reloads unless its a cost issue or tinkering.

They are all great deer and moose rifles depending on calibre.
They can have a few finicky things depending on the gun.
My brother's had to be bedded after purchase but other than that they are keepers.
You would be hard pressed to find a better hunting rifle.
 
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