7mm-08 rechambered to 280 Rem in a Tikka T-3?

Exactly..not too many people want a longer case that burns more powder for basically the same results..regardless of how much of the action is being used.

I am having a hard time buying into this thinking!

On one hand I can have the barrel (rechambered/setback) to 280rem (off the shelf ammo) and the bolt stop adjusted and buy a standard length mag.

On the other hand I can have the barrel (rechambered/throat extended) to 7mm-08 AI (wildcat cartrige) and the bolt stop adjusted and buy a standard length mag.

I have seen some of the claims for the 7mm-08AI velocities but I find it difficult to believe that you can burn less powder at the same pressures and get the same velocity.

But lets say the 7mm-08AI has the same capibilities as the 280rem.

You have done the same work and made the same purchases and you have a wildcat cartridge!

If I am going to end up with a wildcat cartridge in a standard action it would seem reasonable to me that the 280 AI would be a better choice than the 7mm-08AI as I would have move velocity and Factory Brass is available with the 280 AI.
 
What are your intentions for the rifle? Maximum performance with hunting bullets? If so, go .280AI. Are you looking for essentially the same performance as the .280, but accomplished more efficiently, with the ability to load long, high-BC bullets out near the lands? If so, then build a 7-08AI. By seating the bullets out a ways, you can add a bit more powder in the case.

I kind of get the feeling you're more interested in a hunting rifle than a long-range target rifle, so the .280AI would be an excellent choice.
 
Really, I thought the performace would drop with the shorter barrel.

Hmmm, now you have me thinking, didn't really want a 280AI as I like to be able to buy a box of shells, but I have the dies and brass for the 280AI all ready! Hmmmm!

Well, technically you CAN just buy a box of ammo and shoot it, as long as the work is done right you should be able to fire factory .280 Rem ammo and have it eject as fire-formed .280 AI cases.

Then all you need is the other components, and away you go.
 
You are correct, I am interested in a lightweight(less than 6.5lbs bare), accurate hunting rifle with a little more juice than a 7mm-08 rem but less recoil than a 270 WSM/30-06. Also with a detachable mag and less than 90degree bolt lift.

I had a browning X-bolt Stainless Stalker in 280 rem but it just didn't fit me well. I don't like the new Model 85 Sako's and the Model 75's are too heavy! I have a really nice Model 70 Winchester Featherweight in 280 rem that comes in right at 6.5lbs but can't get a DM conversion for it and it has a 90 degree bolt lift.

The Tikka T-3 fits me really well and I like that they have taken the weight out of the receiver and stock and left a decent diameter barrel which makes them a little barrel heavy rather than the other way around for the Rem Mountain Rifle and Winchester FW. I also really like the T-3 mags as they are quiet and lightweight.

I have always preferred the 280 rem over the 270 win (just personal nothing outstanding) so I thought maybe having a 7mm-08rem rechambered to a 280 rem might be just the ticket. But now I am thinking the sensible thing to do would be just to buy a Tikka t-3 light in 270win and use Hornady Superformance 130 GMX ammo or load my own Barnes 130gr TSX.
 
Ok, I am as green as grass on this so if you could help me understand this. I am assuming that the .454" is the chamber size of the shoulder of the 7mm-08? If my assumption is correct then to me you should take the length of the 280 rem 2"minus the 1 3/16" for 13/16" and then subtract that from the length of the 7mm-08 1 1/4" for a set back of around 7/16" - 1/2"?

I am just trying to visualize this as when I looked at the drawings for the brass I thought this would be the problem, but then there was a thread about people chambering 308's in a 30-06 and firing them so I thought I must be mistaken.

I had thought about the 284Win as I have all the dies and brass for it but thought better of it as trying to get it to feed would likely be a problem.

Yes your first assumption is correct, the second one deals more with practicality than anything else. You can't chop 1/2" off barrel threads and start from "scratch". Most barrels have relief groove just in front of the shoulder and threading over it would leave you with one or two less threads in the new tennon so only practical thing left to do is to chop the whole tennon by the shoulder and thread new tennon the way it should be done. Lets say the tennon lenght is 11/16", that plus 1/2" or so the difference of lenght between 7-08 Rem and 280 Rem should give you total 1and3/16" of new "meat" which would be enough to clean up the old chamber. My 2c.
 
I had thought about the same thing a few years ago, and unfortunately it doesn't seem to be feasible. One suggestion though, Tikka makes the T3 in 7x64mm Brenneke, which is the European twin to the .280 Rem. You could try to order one in, and either load for the 7x64, or have the chamber reamed to .280 Rem.
 
I do it the easy way...draw both chambers in MasterCam or AutoCad.....analyze the point where the shoulder of the 7-08 intersects the side of the 280 case and vice-versa...do some calculating and you have the difference........easy as pie....add a bit for the factory chamber being out of round or oversize..usually both....and you will have to set back a half inch.....280AI is a no-brainer...no setback required.

Ok, I am as green as grass on this so if you could help me understand this. I am assuming that the .454" is the chamber size of the shoulder of the 7mm-08? If my assumption is correct then to me you should take the length of the 280 rem 2"minus the 1 3/16" for 13/16" and then subtract that from the length of the 7mm-08 1 1/4" for a set back of around 7/16" - 1/2"?

I am just trying to visualize this as when I looked at the drawings for the brass I thought this would be the problem, but then there was a thread about people chambering 308's in a 30-06 and firing them so I thought I must be mistaken.

I had thought about the 284Win as I have all the dies and brass for it but thought better of it as trying to get it to feed would likely be a problem.
 
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