80% AR lower

There is a wealth of information out there on the finishing the buffer area (drill and tap) The best info on the "home brew" lower is www.cncgunsmithing.co m

Some of his stuff is really awesome, good forum too.

Seems like a cool site. Considering the drilling jig they have available. Couple questions:

The company sells the drilling jig and separately a milling adapter to remove material from the fire control area. Do the dlask lowers require any milling? I called and asked but the guy at dlask had such a thick accent I couldn't understand him?

Is that drill jig going to work on every 80% lower even from other manufactures?

Is a drill press required if the adaptor is purchased instead?
 
The fire control pocket and the magwell look to be done on the Dlask. All you need to do is drill the buffer tube hole out, tap it, drill the FCG pin holes, rear takedown pin, safety spring and detent hole, rear takedown keeper hole, front takedown pin keeper hole, trigger guard holes, pistol grip hole drill and tap, drill hole for bolt hold open pin, mill the aluminum out of front takedown pin ears to accept an upper and then some final clean up on the magwell and perhaps chamfer the trailing edge of the top of the buffer tube tower. The first lower you do with the jig will cost ya about 530 bucks (not including getting anodized) for the tooling and maybe 8 hours or so of labour if you are slow and do a good job. Not a good way to get a cheap lower but a good project to spread out over a winter. Getting it verified and registered should be a snap as enough guys have done this sort of thing before. I might attempt this next winter depending on funds and time.
 
Anodizing adds to the cost, most anodizers have a minimum charge. The one I use costs $130 for 1 and $130 for 3. I like to anodize even if i am going to paint as the hard anodizing adds a skin of toughness which helps protect from scratches and minor dings
 
Seems like a cool site. Considering the drilling jig they have available. Couple questions:

The company sells the drilling jig and separately a milling adapter to remove material from the fire control area. Do the dlask lowers require any milling? I called and asked but the guy at dlask had such a thick accent I couldn't understand him?

Is that drill jig going to work on every 80% lower even from other manufactures?

Is a drill press required if the adaptor is purchased instead?

That jig is meant to finish the lower in a drill press. I wouldn't bother due to the cost.

An 80% lower from Dlask can be easily finished without a costly jig. If you have a knee mill, an angle block, some hardwood or plastic to make some of your own 5 minute jigs and an hour to work out some simple math - it can be done in an afternoon.

You'll need a boring head, the correct buffer tube tap, a 12" long, 3/32" aircraft drill, and a 1/4" NF tap is all the "special" tooling you need - at a cost of $70 from any reputable online tool dealers.

cncguns is an EXCELLENT source for ALL the info you need...
 
Canada doesn't recognize any of the 80% stuff. There aren't any clear guidelines on home built guns.

Some say it's not a gun until it can fire, some say it's a gun as soon as you intend to make a gun.
 
The company sells the drilling jig and separately a milling adapter to remove material from the fire control area. Do the dlask lowers require any milling? I called and asked but the guy at dlask had such a thick accent I couldn't understand him?

Having examined them at Dlask I can say that they do not require milling in the fire control area. They are milled full depth all the way back to the buffer tower like the originals that had the happy switch. FWIW They are nicely made. I was going to get one and put all the info on the front of the mag well for the clean look. Then I realized how it would just end up one of many unfinished projects. Got a finished one from ArmsEast instead...

DAR701 is correct in the work that needs to be done to finish it. Jo basically said the same when I asked. He even said he could verify it for me when it was complete to enable registration. He is a great guy albeit a bit hard to understand when he talks fast.

shatthatkilledelvis said:
You'll need a boring head, the correct buffer tube tap, a 12" long, 3/32" aircraft drill, and a 1/4" NF tap is all the "special" tooling you need - at a cost of $70 from any reputable online tool dealers.

You might even be able to get away with a 6" drill bit. Easier to work with than one a foot long. That is what I was told anyhow, not speaking from direct experience.
 
Thinking of doing this as a winter/summer project. I know it's more than just buying one, but nothing beats the feeling of saying "I built 20% of that!"
 
Hummmm ... might sound stupid but I wonder. Whats the point of paying $220 for a 80% complete lower when you cant get a 100% complete for $149 or $160 ? (cant remember if blueline or kodiak is cheaper)

In the states, an 80% lower is a third of the price of Dlask's 80% lower. Up here, there are other reasons.

I looked around, and none of the shops in the states will send them up here. I'm guessing their state dept or the atf poopood that idea.
 
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