870 - Can't Remove handguard from Action Bar

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JoeOnePack

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So I've been tinkering with my 870 and I received a new forend, but after getting the castle nut off I'm unable to get the damn wood forend off the action bars. I've pulled as hard as I could and tried twisting it on the way off, but it won't budge. It's a 70's Wingmaster and I don't think the forend has ever come off. Any tips or tricks?
 
Might be a terrible idea, might not, but heating the inside of the metal tube gradually with a heat gun or small propane torch might degunk it enough to slide it off and clean both sides. Something I’d try if I was getting frustrated.
 
Screw on the castellated nut all the way, loosen it a couple turns and hit it with something to start pushing it off. Once it starts to move you will have to work it and twist it off, the action bars carefully snugged up in a vise makes pulling and twisting the forend off. Anyone with a grizzly 870 clone knows this routine. I sanded the 870 forend I put on my grizzly till it was a snug but removable fit.
 
Thread the nut back on till it's engaged in the threads but not all the way tight and then tap it with a hammer and a block of wood while you hold the foreend in your hand..... might be easier with a helper!
 
Butcherbill said:
Screw on the castellated nut all the way, loosen it a couple turns and hit it with something to start pushing it off. Once it starts to move you will have to work it and twist it off, the action bars carefully snugged up in a vise makes pulling and twisting the forend off. Anyone with a grizzly 870 clone knows this routine. I sanded the 870 forend I put on my grizzly till it was a snug but removable fit.
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What he said..... :)
 
Can-down said:
Thread the nut back on till it's engaged in the threads but not all the way tight and then tap it with a hammer and a block of wood while you hold the foreend in your hand..... might be easier with a helper!
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Yeah exactly, block of wood or a big diameter wooded dowel. Like the size of a closet rod you get at Home Depot, that should work well.
 
The proper tool works wonders, especially when combined with patience and penetrating oil.

Follow the directions.

<https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/shotgun-tools/forend-wrenches/remington-mossberg-forend-wrench-prod968.aspx>

<https://www.liquidwrench.com/>

<http://www.kanolabs.com/>
 
Have you tried penetrating oil on a wood to metal "stiction" issue before Wendell? I haven't and I don't know if I have the patience to find out how long it would take for the oil to penetrate the wood and creep back to the area of "stiction" and I would be afraid of the wood swelling and getting tighter..... if it doesn't come loose with a couple of sharp taps I'd be tempted to heat up the metal a bit with a hot air gun and see if that softens the bond and maybe throw it in the freezer over night to as well and try the hammer again in the morning.
 
I finally got a chance to throw the handguard in the oven at 200 degrees for 10 minutes. It came off with almost no pressure. Found out the hard way that my ergo tri rail wont fit on the HP9 mag tube...
 
Where did the HP9 come from.... :)
The Chinese assembly's are a bit fat, nothing a dowel and some sandpaper can't deal with.
 
Can-down said:
Where did the HP9 come from.... :)
The Chinese assembly's are a bit fat, nothing a dowel and some sandpaper can't deal with.
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Ive got a couple shotties that I tried it on. Fits my Wingmaster, but without the castle nut tightened like a mother, its super loose.
 
JoeOnePack said:
Ive got a couple shotties that I tried it on. Fits my Wingmaster, but without the castle nut tightened like a mother, its super loose.
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Nothing a wrap or two of electrical tape won't solve.... :)
Or maybe run the tape down the tube instead of around so it doesn't bind up! Depends on how loose it is....
 
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