870 Rust control please HELP!!!

This brings back very vivid memories of basic training with the rusty old C7A1's and how they would rust every hour if you did not clean them inbetween missions.

Nevertheless, all that rust will come out, given that you spend hours of scrubing with CLP and use just about every ounce of elbow grease you can find.

Good luck!
 
this is a new 870 and i believe the finish is parkarized.

Parkerizing is a electrochemical process that bonds micro grains of manganese or zinc to the bare steel after heating in a phoshporic acid solution. Aside form a nice color, the purpose of the micrograins is to suspend oil against the steel preventing oxidization. If the parkerizing holds no oil, it will just as easily fill the spaces with moisture - and rust. Parkerizing needs oil for corrosion resistance, it does not offer protection without oil suspended.

If the parkerizing was left dry without oil and gets wetted/loaded with moisture, it is best to displace the water with WD40, a warm hair dryer, heat gun or some other means before replacing the oil protection. Bottom line is the parkerizing needs to be kept loaded with oil maximize protection like others have mentioned.
 
Another vote for Gunzilla. Besides protecting and lubing it seems to work very well at removing surface rust as well. If I could find it in an aerosol I probably wouldn't use my G96 or Break Free again. Just find the aerosol more convenient than the pump.
 
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I use a product called Firepower 10 (FP-10) and it does the job of protecting the metal. Smells great to.

You might want to check the corrosion tests I posted. FP-10 (if it is the same thing) is a great lubricant, but a very poor corrosion inhibitor. BTW, I also use it, but only as a lubricant, not as corrosion protection.
 
The only thing I use in the shop is Eezox. I have tested it in many ways and it is the one as a lubricant and rust inhibitor. We will probably supply a sample with all our products soon, it's that good.
 
The only thing I use in the shop is Eezox. I have tested it in many ways and it is the one as a lubricant and rust inhibitor. We will probably supply a sample with all our products soon, it's that good.

Eezox is also the only product I use, except for a occasionally a heavier lubricating oil.
 
You might want to check the corrosion tests I posted. FP-10 (if it is the same thing) is a great lubricant, but a very poor corrosion inhibitor. BTW, I also use it, but only as a lubricant, not as corrosion protection.

I swear by it. It shields against corrosion & stops and inhibits rust so the label and my own testimonial. It also smells like Cinnamon.
 
I swear by it. It shields against corrosion & stops and inhibits rust so the label and my own testimonial. It also smells like Cinnamon.
You mean FP-10. The formulation is no longer the same as it was developed originally. The inventor had moved on & is now behind the Weapon Shield products - his latest incarnation of a CLP. I started using Weapon Shield oil & grease about a month ago - ordered directly from the factory in the US - but it is still too early to tell...

As for EEzox/Weaponshield comparison, multiple threads can be found at bobistheoilguy, like:
h ttp://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1303333
 
Because the 870 Express is a cheap bead blasted finish, it can't hold up the oil as good as a parkerized 870 Police does.

The expresses are never parkerized. Why do you think they run for several hundred $ less than a Police model....;)
 
This thread got me all alarmed... I had my shotgun - a Baikal MP153 semi-auto - stored in a plastic carry case with foam inserts (a definite no-no) for over a year. I examined it this morning, and there is not a single hint of rust anywhere, including the gas chamber.

Last time I cleaned it I used Ballistol at full strength and then wiped it off lightly. The film is still there. Since I have no idea how soon the gun will be fired again I'll re-oil it with Ballistol. Maybe I'll keep it out of the case though...
 
Hey guys today i was out shooting skeet when a downpour decided to roll up on us. we finished the round i lightly and quickly wiped down my 870 express, i like the challenge of a pump in skeet. so i boxed it up and went to the indoor range and shot pistol and rifle. As soon as i got home i opened up my SG case and my 870 was covered in rust....COVERED!!!!!! :owned: . i detail stripped it wiped it down cleaned with solvent and a coarse tooth brush because some of the spots wouldn't come off and oiled it like crazy. Is there anything i can do to prevent this iv heard of baking in Vaseline? please help this is a new 870 and i believe the finish is parkarized. Thanks alot.

Mike
I use a light coating of CLP after every use and I find that it provides great protection.
But, just how long did you leave it wet in the case? I find it hard to believe that you had such severe rusting after only a couple of hours. Unless you have kept the outside of the shotgun completely dry of oil.
When it rains and I have to put my guns away wet, I make sure to air dry them when I get home, and I also air and dry out the gun case, whether it is the foam inside a hard case or a soft case.
The only time that I have seen severe rusting is when a wet canvas holster was left on a firearm for several days.
 
The best way to completely eliminate rust period is to coat it in Arma-Coat. I have rifles over the last 7 years of being in business submerged in water or snow and no wipe down, with zero rust at all period. give us a call to get the right product to protect your rifle. You can apply it yourself or we can do it for you.
 
Parkerizing is a electrochemical process that bonds micro grains of manganese or zinc to the bare steel after heating in a phoshporic acid solution. Aside form a nice color, the purpose of the micrograins is to suspend oil against the steel preventing oxidization. If the parkerizing holds no oil, it will just as easily fill the spaces with moisture - and rust. Parkerizing needs oil for corrosion resistance, it does not offer protection without oil suspended.

If the parkerizing was left dry without oil and gets wetted/loaded with moisture, it is best to displace the water with WD40, a warm hair dryer, heat gun or some other means before replacing the oil protection. Bottom line is the parkerizing needs to be kept loaded with oil maximize protection like others have mentioned.

The stock 870 is not a parkerized finish. Its beadblasted and some other stuff is put on the metal.
 
Try Eezox, for rust protection, it's a wet product that dries when properly applied, no mess and excellent rust protection.
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