8x57 loading questions

BeaverMeat

BeaverMeat

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Looking for some info on hand loading 8x57. I don't have any loading equipment yet, so these are just for my notes.

First question: Brass.

I have a good collection of PPU, Igman, S&B, Winchester, and Federal once fired brass. I know all of these reload fine... except for the S&B. I have been told that most primers do not fit too well in the socket. Anyone have any success in loading S&B? Or is this just a wise tale?

Dies:

In your opinion, who makes the "best" dies for 8x57? Quality wise.

Replicating Yugo M75 'sniper' ammo. The only difference from M49 is the primer which is fulminate instead of sinoxide. What is the difference between these primers and how could it be replicated with commercial primers.
 
Lee or RCBS are fine - I've used both. If you can get the Lee three die Deluxe set in 8 mm, you've got lots of flexibility. Cant comment on the brass - you wont know until you try - if any brass has crimps in the pockets, you'll have to address this.
For matching a factory load, primer selection is the least of your issues. Very little (none) of the published loads come close to full house factory loads, so you're going to have to play around with powders, and powder weight for the given bullet weight. good luck...
 
BeaverMeat said:
Looking for some info on hand loading 8x57. I don't have any loading equipment yet, so these are just for my notes.

First question: Brass.

I have a good collection of PPU, Igman, S&B, Winchester, and Federal once fired brass. I know all of these reload fine... except for the S&B. I have been told that most primers do not fit too well in the socket. Anyone have any success in loading S&B? Or is this just a wise tale?

Dies:

In your opinion, who makes the "best" dies for 8x57? Quality wise.

Replicating Yugo M75 'sniper' ammo. The only difference from M49 is the primer which is fulminate instead of sinoxide. What is the difference between these primers and how could it be replicated with commercial primers.
Click to expand...
Re:S&B primer pockets. I have read on here from a few sources about the S&B brass having tight,somewhat shallow primer pockets.Until recently I never had a chance to see this firsthand.A little while ago I came across some S&B 9.3X62 brass and in my limited experience with the stuff I would agree with the pockets being a bit on the cosy side.I had to use a fair bit more effort to seat them in the case than usual but they did work out OK,the brass is excellent quality in my opinion aside from this issue,although my use of the brand has been limited to a small run of the stuff.
 
I use Hornady dies for my 8mm. Although I have some 8mm brass from S&B and PVRI, I haven't used it. I ordered some Norma brass from one of the suppliers and it works really well.


I've loaded a few other calibers with S&B and PRVI brass, and though there may be a slight difference in primer tightness, they all work satisfactory IMO. For what its worth, I also find a difference in primer tightness between Federal, Winchester, and Remington brass.
 
I've got Lee and Hornady dies for 8x57 and they both work fine. The Lee ones aren't so great if you are converting .30-06 to 8x57 (the lube bleed hole leaves a gouge in the shoulder) but if you already have 8x57 brass you're fine with either. I can't see RCBS being bad and I have dies from them for several other calibres and they all work great.

The only calibre I have a pile of S&B brass for is 7.62x54R. After the first or second reload the primer pockets loosen up and are fine (for me at least). They can be a bit tight at first and require more force. I've never had a problem with them being shallow; only time I ran into that was with some Hornady .30-30 brass. All my reloading is with CCI primers.
 
Buy an RCBS beginner's kit. Plus a Lyman manual.
Federal brass is known for being softer than other brands. Just means it doesn't last as long.
 
Thanks for the replies. Still undecided on dies. My only concern is durability as I plan to do allot of 8x57 hand loads (about 2000 rounds of various loads) So quality is important. RCBS or Hornady come to mind.

I will be loading to C.I.P. specs. I want the full potential of this round. (yes, I am running .323 bores) Which manual has C.I.P. specs?
 
I do not recall any loading manual making a reference to CIP.
If you know the velocity that you wish to duplicate, you can adjust your loads toward that level, but be careful. Best if you have a chronograph.
You will also need to be able to recognize pressure signs.
Are you trying to duplicate a load that matches sight calibrations?
If not, load for accuracy.
 
If it's Euro type ballistics you want, try the Norma loads. They're listed on their site. Your only problem may be finding Norma powders. As for brass, I've tried Igman, and have found the primer pockets to be incredibly tight. I use S&B in an 8X64 and have had no problems at all.
 
I have a vintage hornady load book from early
1970's data is quite punchy in the book
Seems older manuals give more potent data
As now days the guns tested are older, liabilities
Come in to factor, can't say all guns are safe with
The high end loads, if you would like data
Please email me at. coltkid_93@hotmail.com
Ill respond to your email with data you require
Ill need to know what velocities your trying to
Achieve and bullet weight being used
Cheers!

I use the data in this manual for 7x57
I have a 1908 Brazilian long rifle scoped
Otherwise full military issue
I'm getting over 3000 fps with a 120
Gr bullet and MOA accuracy
 
I have Ken waters pet loads. I can scan and email you the data if you want... I find that the Lee collet neck dies help the brass last a lot longer... Also, the Lee factory crimp die adds stability to the bullet in the mag. For the most part, I have Lee dies, and find them good for what I do...
 
Your bet source for "healthy" loads are Hodgdon (not real CIP but much above "normal" SAAMI as a lot of their loads are from ADI's lab), Norma and Lapua.
As for dies, I use RCBS and Hornady for the 8X57. Hornady's seating dies are sometime a pain in the buns because of the follwer (plunger).
 
Be careful with Igman brass. I've seen small flash holes(break or seize the decapper) and tight pockets. You can correct this with proper tools and some work.
 
Thanks for the info.

Allot to keep in mind when finding reloading equipment. Still undecided, but I will defiantly be getting the Lee crimp die.

As for load data, I want CIP specs, so I might need to source out some European reloading manuals. I do not want to numb-out my 8mm.
 
MetricMan said:
If it's Euro type ballistics you want, try the Norma loads. They're listed on their site. Your only problem may be finding Norma powders. As for brass, I've tried Igman, and have found the primer pockets to be incredibly tight. I use S&B in an 8X64 and have had no problems at all.
Click to expand...

In the Norma Gunbug's Guide, circa early 1960s, they show some loadings with American powders.
For the 8x57 JS, with 159 grain bullet, 46.5 grains of 3031, for velocity of 2723.
The older loading manuals gave no starting loads, just the standard charge. Thus, one is on their own to start down a bit. However, this load is shown to give a breach pressure of only 42,100.
A 196 grain bullet is shown as using 46.3 grains of HiVel#2.
You may have a problem finding that very common powder, from a bygone era.
 
I have a few loads in mind.

FMJ Target load. 198 grain a shy under 2400 fps

The 'bushmaster' load. 196 to 200 grain at roughly 2600 fps

The 'compromise' load. 170 to 175 grain at roughly 2800 fps

The 'stinger' load. 140 to 150 grains at 3100-3000 fps


All loads are doable, just depends on the bullet I can find.
 
You get one in the Lee Deluxe kit. Considering all rifle dies are made of hardened steel, they will outlast you unless you are prone to ham-fistedness. Loadbooks in the states sells a booklet containing the info you want.
 
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