8x58RD for rolling block - more data

Metman2

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I've obtained a few more data from this project - one of many that are on the go.

My materials:

1867/89 Swedish rolling block, unmodified
50x PRCVI 8x56RS brass, fire formed and now re-fired several times. Annealed after every third firing
Lee-mold cast 205gr bullets with gas-checks (lead is soft pistol bullets recovered from a club)
CH4D 8x58RD dies, .327" expander ball
Lee expander die

Three powders: Unique, H4198, SR4759. I experimented with weighed loads
Winchester Large Rifle primers.

COAL is 2.900". This comes nowhere near the lands - that would require a bullet around 2" long!

The best results are with SR4759 - 24gr: m.v. 1693fps s.d. 20 e.s. 50

Second best is H4198 - 24gr: m.v.1511fps s.d. 44 e.s. 123. The problem with this powder is that it doesn't seem to be developing enough pressure to seal the neck, and there is black sludge blowing back around the neck and shoulder. The loads are accurate, but I don't like the idea of any blow-back with this old gun. The reason for blow-back, I believe, is the lack of crimp (see below).

Unique is OK, but I find it relatively weak and inconsistent, bullets all over the paper, and I dropped it.

If I full-size the brass, it becomes apparent that the shells rattle around in the chamber, and when fired, they expand asymmetrically. In order to re-insert them, they have to be turned just right. If, before firing, I wrap a single turn of 1/4" masking tape around the case head, the fully-sized cases are less loose and expand symmetrically.
--> my rifle has an "oversize" chamber. In retrospect, I could have taken a chamber cast and ordered a custom die set from CH4D.
However, I've found that partial-resizing - just enough to size most of the neck - keeps the cases closer to the chamber dimensions, with no need for taping.

The bigger issue with the standard 8x58RD seating die is that it is too long to crimp my brass, which is shorter than 58mm.
Since there is no crimp, this is affecting the burn efficiency, especially for H4198.
I could cut off a few mm on the bottom of the seating die, but that would require machining equipment and skills that I don't have. I'd rather not mutilate it with a hacksaw, if that were even possible. The steel seems pretty hard. It's easier to just stick with the SR4759 loads.
 
Nice work - thanks for sharing.

I use the 8X56 brass as well, but have found that any belted magnum brass with the belt turned off is a good substitute, with 338 Win Mag working nicely, execpt that it doesn't have enough rim left to extract well. I have 8X58RD dies, and neck-size using a 325 WSM Sizing die (touches the neck only). At these pressures, it's quite a few firings before the shouloder and body need to be "bumped" a bit. I don't crimp, and if I wanted to, I'd go to Lee for a Custom Crimp die.

As for bullets, I use mostly the long, fat and heavy 8mm "Karabiner" and "Maximum" (~215 gr and 230 gr) bullets made from the molds available from Midsouth Shooting Supplies: http://www.midsouthshooterssupply.c...EAD+BULLET+CASTING&dept3=SPECIAL+ORDER+MOULDS (presently out of stock)

Some loads with the 230 gr bullet:

Unique - 13.0 grs - 1250 fps (max)
SR4759 - 20.0 grs - 1500 fps (max)
H4198 - 28.0 grs - 1715 fps (max) - best load
H4895 - 35.0 grs - 1800 fps - inconsistent. I'd go as high as 40.0 grs or 2000 fps with H4895, but haven't yet tried it.
 
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Thanks for the added info.
I haven't explored too much the brass possibilities, i.e. reforming from other calibres. I try to ask for used brass whenever I'm at a range, guys are usually happy to give me whatever they have if they don't reload. I never thought to check the magnum calibres.

I acquired a copy of John J Donnelly's "Handloader's Manual of Cartridge Conversions", which, while it doesn't actually have 8x58RD, has a lot of interesting and/or useful information. Some of it goes far beyond anything I'd be willing to do, e.g. cobbling together bases from one caliber with brass tube stock to create longer bullets than can be done by fireforming, or enlarging a rim by soldering a brass ring to the base, etc.

It seems to me the ideal starter for 8x58 would be .45-90, although it would be somewhat sacrilegious.
 
Starline makes 45-90 brass, and it's not too expensive (I shoot a 45-90), and not too difficult to acquire. 45-90 makes up "correct" brass (length and base diameter to "spec"), and I've done it, but it's a lot of work, starts from more expensive brass, but produces no better results than my favourite - 8X56 brass. I only tried 45-90 and the belted magnums to compare, and stick with 8X56 now. If it's ever not available, at least there are alternatives.

When it comes to published 8X58 loads (there are some), you have to be careful to choose loads designed for the Rolling Block. The 8X58 was also used in the much stronger Krag-Jörgensen action and loads are not interchangeable.
 
Yes I've read about the bolt-action 8x58. Pressures are 2X or more than what the rolling-blocks should take. There was a nasty accident in Sweden a few years ago when a guy fired a bullet loaded for the bolt rifle in his m1867/89.
 
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