9.3x62 for 9.3x57 brass

riversrest said:
The finished brass shoulder on the pics looks good to me, if it chambers well.

I know to some, the 9.3x57 "shoulder" looks unfamiliar in compare to other cartridges but that's how it supposed to be.

In post #77 you can see a re-formed case that has shoulder "indents". I'd avoid that at all cost.

For what reason should those indents in case shoulder be avoided "at all costs" - I have had them occasionally - too much lube on the case or built up within the sizing die - I had thought they were inconsequential - would simply blow out when that round was fired - but maybe was something that I had missed??

And you are right. The dents do not affect correct chambering and disappear when the round is fired.

Ted
 
And you are right. The dents do not affect correct chambering and disappear when the round is fired.

Ted

Do they go off and straighten out? Yes, I agree with you, you're right.

However, the dents are changing among other things, original specs for case form and powder capacity.

It's like driving a dented vehicle on the Autobahn, IMO. I don't like it and hence I avoid dented cases. I hope this helps.
 
Do they go off and straighten out? Yes, I agree with you, you're right.

However, the dents are changing among other things, original specs for case form and powder capacity.

It's like driving a dented vehicle on the Autobahn, IMO. I don't like it and hence I avoid dented cases. I hope this helps.

He's making a cartridge case out of a different case. Sometimes (often) fireforming is part of the process.
 
^ I don't think you read the whole thread. But yeah, you're right !

There is a learning process in case conversion, one of them is learning how to use "just enough" lube.
I have converted over 500 30/06 cases to 9.3x57 and not have had a dented case.
I have converted about 100 223 Remington to 222 Remington and I get some dented cases, They are not lube dents.
I suspect I will have to carefully anneal the 223 prior to resizing in several progressive steps.
I also have to turn the necks on these cases.
 
^ I know about the learning process. All I said was "I'd avoid the dented shoulders, at all cost". I also said that I think the OPs pictured cases "look good to me".

I cannot find anything insulting in that.

But some on here seem to get their knickers into a knot if someone else shatters their "world view" on dented cartdridge cases.

I take it as positive critisicm though...
 
What are you guys turning your neck thickness to? I was about to charge those cases I made and decided to check neck thickness quickly before I loaded them and they were .015 I am turning them back to .010/.011 area.. for the first fire form I should be good after that I’m hoping.. any suggestions?
 
^ I know about the learning process. All I said was "I'd avoid the dented shoulders, at all cost". I also said that I think the OPs pictured cases "look good to me".

I cannot find anything insulting in that.

But some on here seem to get their knickers into a knot if someone else shatters their "world view" on dented cartdridge cases.

I take it as positive critisicm though...

Dents happen when converting cases... sometimes it can not be avoided.
 
What are you guys turning your neck thickness to? I was about to charge those cases I made and decided to check neck thickness quickly before I loaded them and they were .015 I am turning them back to .010/.011 area.. for the first fire form I should be good after that I’m hoping.. any suggestions?

I converted 100 30-06 cases to 9.2x57 They will chamber in one rifle but in the other the neck is too thick. For this reason I now make cases out of 8.57. Much easier.
 
What are you guys turning your neck thickness to? I was about to charge those cases I made and decided to check neck thickness quickly before I loaded them and they were .015 I am turning them back to .010/.011 area.. for the first fire form I should be good after that I’m hoping.. any suggestions?

Some years ago I got on a "kick" to peel case necks to make "more accurate" rounds - turned out that I could not show any difference on 5 round groups on target at 100 yards - with my shooting, or that rifle, or those brass - so I gave up on that idea. Now-a-days, I would try a bullet into your sized brass - if that chambers into your rifle, then that, for me, would be "good to go" - I would not know or care what thickness the necks were at - just that it chambers or not. I think I read that some folk want several shots taken to pound out the brass, before going to peeling neck thickness. In the end, for me, is about holes on target - whether or not I can show to myself that it makes a difference, or whether it is just "busy work".
 
Thanks for the replies. I am consulting an old hand loader magazine article in reference to the neck thickness when making x57 out of 06 brass. I’m hoping I’m just over analyzing… not turning necks for accuracy, more so to allow Expansion on the first fire form.
 
Last edited:
Thanks for the replies. I am consulting an old hand loader magazine article in reference to the neck thickness when making x57 out of 06 brass. I’m hoping I’m just over analyzing… not turning necks for accuracy, more so to allow Expansion on the first fire form.

A ight neck is a pipe bomb. Be careful. A bullet should easily drop into a fired case.
 
A ight neck is a pipe bomb. Be careful. A bullet should easily drop into a fired case.

A loaded case should drop easily into the chamber. A thick neck in the 9.3x57 in some L46 rifles will have smaller necks.
I have found that a cast bullet sized to 0.367" will allow easy chambering in my rifle, a bullet of 0.368" requires the neck to be thinned before it enters the chamber effortlessly. ( I do not use the bolt to check this, I drop the case into the chamber with the bolt out. it should enter with zero force and extract with no sticky at all. ( Fall out when the gun is pointed up)
 
Back
Top Bottom