9MM Luger - Newbie Questions

[32-20]

Hi again fellow CGNer's. As some of you may already know, my name is Dan and I am in the process of learning how to load my own ammunition. Initially, my first choice was to do the 32-20 cartridge (since I can't seem to buy it locally) but changed my mind after so many folks told me that the 32-20 was a tricky little feller to load and not advised it as a beginner's load...So, I am on to the 9MM Luger (my second choice).

For the record, my cartridge will be loaded as such :

• Remington 9MM Luger brass
• Remington small pistol primer
• Hodgdon HP-38 (4.0 gr)
• Hornady HP/XTP 124 gr. .355" dia. bullet
• OAL = 1.100"

I have both the Speer Reloading Manual (Number 13) and the LEE Modern Reloading Manual (2nd Edition). Both have been my "on hand" references to date. I find both manuals to be very well written, however, I have a few questions. Please bare with my "newbieless"...

For the 9MM Luger, I wanted to buy the RCBS dies, however, my outfitter was out of stock so I settled for the LEE die set which included the LEE factory crimp die. I have nothing to compare these to nor do I have the experience to compare them to anything. I simply have to assume that they are a quality die set.

• Is one brand of dies better than the other?

I am using my dies in an RCBS single stage press. I opted for a single stage press since I thought it would be a wiser choice for a beginner. While the turret presses seem like they would produce far more quickly, I chose to go at it one stage at a time. Not only for safety reasons but I felt that this would allow me the chance to better understand each stage by focusing my attention to one thing at a time.

I found out this past week that with "Obama Fever" runing so ramapant in the United States that ammunition and reloading materials can be quite difficult to come by up here in Canada. As a result, the primers that I have had on back order for over a month are likely not going to be in for another month or two yet! I find this extremely frustrating since I want to "tinker" with this new reloading/loading hobby of mine! As a result (and for other reasons), I have gone ahead and made half a dozen 9MM "dummy rounds". I find it good practice in regards to setting up the dies and planting the seed for safe loading practices by going through the motions (even if I don't have all the materials on hand).

My dummy rounds bring me to two questions. I am using new Remington 9MM Luger unprimed brass. My process is typical in that I lube the case, run it through the de-primer/sizer die, run it through the expander die, then using a Hornady HP/XTP 124gr. .355" dia. bullet I seat it with the bullet seating die to an OAL of 1.100". My first question is as follows :

• The Hornady HP/XTP 124.gr .355" dia. bullet has a smooth body (no recess or serations for crimping into). Would a factory crimp still be recommended?

I have noticed that after seating my bullet, I get a small amount of deformation (bulge) in my casing. It is as though the case has been stretched in order to make room for the bullet. You can see this in the picture below. In the case, at the very bottom of the bullet, there is a slight bulge (follow the arrow in my picture). Measured directly on the bulge I get a diameter of 0.3790" while just below the bulge I get a measurement of 0.3750" in diameter (a difference of 0.0040" in diameter). At the very top edge of the brass I get a measurement of 0.3790" in diameter. This brings me to my second question :

• Is this bulge normal or am I doing something wrong?

Moving away from my previous case questions, I am using a Hornady Lock-N-Load powder measure and I have adjusted it to allow for a charge 4.0 grs. (HP-38 powder). I have calibrated this amount by using both my RCBS 5-0-5 scale and a small digital scale that I have on hand. I have noticed that the Lock-N-Load is accurate to with .2 grs up or down (usually .1 gr). I realize that many people have their powder measure on a seperate stand and often charge less powder than required and "tumble" up to the exact weight required (on a scale). I can see how this is the most accurate method without a doubt (in my mind). I have made myself an adapter that allows my Lock-N-Load to be screwed into my expander die. This will allow me to charge my case at the same step where I bell the mouth. While I don't intend to do this in the beginning (like I said before, I wish to load on step at a time for now), I have a question :

• Being a small cased round and offering little room for error, is charging a 9MM Luger case through the expander die a bad idea?

Regarding powder charging. I can certainly understand the dangers of over charging a round! Nothing good can come of too much pressure! On the other side of the fence, however, there is under charging a round. If I had to make a decision, I would prefer to under charge a round and deal with a bullet stuck in the barrel than to over charge a round and damage something or injure myself. For this reason I am inclined to start at the "Start Point" of the reloading manual's recipe. I have a question regarding this :

• If my Lock-N-Load was accurate to within .2 grs up or down and I were charging a small case such as the 9MM Luger with a the documented "start point" charge and an error occured which charged the round with .2 grs of powder less, would this be enough to lodge a bullet in my barrel?

Thanks to all of you who offer your aid, suggestions and pointers. For a beginner I assure you that they are all welcomed! Bring on your criticism - it helps to!

- Dan

 

[saskgunowner101]

Far from an expert here, but I'm free to voice my opinions.

1.)Die brand is up to you. They all get the job done. Some cost more with better finish and tolerance (apparently). I have Lee and RCBS which are both good.

2.) The factory crimp die will wrinkle out any slight flaws by resizing the case post crimp. As for the crimp, it will remove the flare/bell you put on the case before you seated the bullet, and maybe give it some neck tension. This is in the case of a bullet without a canneleure.

P.S. They say to lube 9mm cases but you can run without it(assuming carbide dies) or put some lee lube in a squirter bottle with rubbing alcohol makes life easy. A light spray on the cases/let dry=easy. IIRC the ratio for the Lee stuff in a tube is 10 to one. I have a little spritzer bottle(dollar store)where I put approx. 2 teaspoons of case lube with 80-100ml rubbing alcohol.

3.)My 9mm loads always look goofy like that as well and feed fine. I think it has to do with the slightly tapered casing, nothing serious.

4.)Charging powder through the expander die is a piece of cake. Just make sure you verify your charges every 5 loads or whatever makes you confident it is throwing accurate.

5.)Try to stick close to the start load when you first start. That said, I've went below starting loads and the pistol still functioned well. You start getting black cases from low pressure and the pistol might get fussy with fail to eject. Also some powders are goofy with low charges.

Good luck. Hope this helps.

 

[32-20]

Thanks for the input!! I think I must be on the right path then as my gut was telling me the same as you just did. I have been lubing my cases with RCBS Case Lube-2 by rolling them on the RCBS lube pad. The stuff is thick as heck...Good point about the spritzer bottle and rubble alcohol dolution! I might have to try that!

I realize that cases of the 9MM Luger are tapered and I agree that this is where the bulging becomes pronounced. I'm happy to hear that I am not the only one experiencing this...LoL. I'm even more delighted to hear that it doesn't effect your performance!

When it comes to varifying my loaded rounds for powder, I suspect that the best way to varify them is to weigh them on the RCBS 5-0-5 scale (in my case). Knowing the weight of the brass/bullet/primer & powder each bullet should weigh in at that total. Is there a better way? (or any other way for that matter?)

Again, thanks for the help!!
Cheers!
- Dan

 

[saskgunowner101]

I'm not sure how accurate it would be to weigh the loaded round....all I was getting at was to make sure your powder thrower was throwing consistently enough to not worry. If you go throw 10 charges right now and weight them, they are all within .2 of 4(3.9-4.1) grains, correct??

As you go along weigh every 5th or 10th charge just to confirm it is still throwing how it should while reloading. I like to eyeball my charge sitting in the case just for a visual everything is okay.(Some powders flow better/worse than others)

Pay attention to the powder hopper level as well. Other than that it sounds like you're well on your way. I hope a few others step in to give some other pointers etc.