A Couple of Questions On Working Up Loads

mmattockx

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1) I have an M1 Garand I want to load for. I have found some recommended loads in this forum to work up to. Do I start 10% low on these like usual and just accept the fact that I have to manually cycle the action, or will 10% low still cycle OK?

2) I have a number of M96 Swedish Mausers in 6.5x55. Since the M96 action is somewhat weaker than current actions, I plan to not exceed book maximums on loads. Will the M96 show pressure signs near the book max before a major failure occurs? What have members seen loading the M96 action to book loads?

Thanks,
Mark
 
1) I have an M1 Garand I want to load for. I have found some recommended loads in this forum to work up to. Do I start 10% low on these like usual and just accept the fact that I have to manually cycle the action, or will 10% low still cycle OK?


Try it at 10% under maximum and try it. If it doesn't cycle work you load up until it does. Also, don't depend on data found on this or any other forum. Get a good reloading book or three with data for the Garand and use that to start your development.



2) I plan to not exceed book maximums on loads.

That is a good idea for ANY rifle unless you really know what you are doing. While the data for that particular cartridge was developed with older rifles like your in mind there is no guarantee your particular rifle will hold together at maximum charges. Start 10% low and CAREFULLY work up.
 
2) I have a number of M96 Swedish Mausers in 6.5x55. Since the M96 action is somewhat weaker than current actions, I plan to not exceed book maximums on loads. Will the M96 show pressure signs near the book max before a major failure occurs? What have members seen loading the M96 action to book loads?

Thanks,
Mark

The data is usually tested in the weakest action and in this case its M-96 or Krags .

Ive loaded right up to the max on these actions (96) and they tend to shoot well at that point (depends on bullet powder combo) . Work up slowly and watch for pressure signs...the only one I noticed on a 96 was the flattened primers...never got to the point where extraction was difficult. If you see anything like that (flattened primers or difficult extractions) just back off.
 
Proven Garand Handloads

Here are some that have been proven to give good functionality and accuracy w/o excess pressure signs in 2 dozen different Garands in sound condition with proper headspace over the years. Brass is Lake City 67/68/69. Primers are WLR,Rem LR or CCI #34.

A. 150FMJ/155gr Match bullet. Either 48 gr IMR4064 or 47gr IMR4895. COL is 3.280.

B. 168gr Match bullet. Either 46gr IMR4064 or 45gr IMR4895. COL is 3.330.

Some caveats/cautions on reloading for these rifles:

1. Use only the propellants specified as they are right for the gas system.

2. Only reload brass 4x after initial firing,then discard. The rifle is hard on brass and brass should be inspected after each firing. Do not try to economize and reload brass to the point of failure.

3. Always FL re-size. Do not necksize or partial re-size. You can check on proper sizing by using the rifle as a gauge to set the die and check on chambering of re-sized cases prior to reloading. In this case strip the bolt and remove op rod and spring. Trial size brass to a point that finger pressure will close the stripped bolt on the re-sized case w/o resistance. Then turn down die another 1/8-1/4 turn and lock it. Resized brass can be checked to ensure chambering w/o resistance before loading it in the same manner.

4. Ensure primers are seated slightly below flush with the casehead. A primer pocket uniformer will facilitate this. If brass is MILSURP,primer crimps must be removed before attempting to reload.

5. Keep brass trimmed below max length.

There is no need to crimp for these rifles. Match bullets do not have a cannelure and those on some of the popular FMJ bullets will not locate in the case neck unless you seat the bullet unnecessarily deep. Some other tips-segregate brass by firing cycles and sort brass by weight for better accuracy. You can also de-burr the flash holes-a one time operation.
 
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