A good O/U on a budget?

Primarily a tight lock up, make sure you cannot wiggle the mono-bloc(chamber end of the barrels) in the action, put some snap caps in the gun and make sure both pulls of the trigger are working, with an inertia setting second shot action you'll have to pull the trigger for the first shot then give the butt a good hard slap with your hand to set the second shot(don't hit the butt on the floor or some hard object and risk cracking the stock), with the gun locked up where does the top lever sit? It should be a bit right of centre on guns like Berettas, Winchesters, Brownings etc but if it's centred at 6 o'clock it's not a huge deal on those guns if the lockup is tight however if it's left of centre avoid it. On Perazzi and Boss type actions like Kolars and a few models of other brands 6 o'clock means it is going to at minimum require a new locking block and if it's been shot for some time in that position it could require major repair from damage due to firing. It may need a new top lever and even a mono-bloc! After firing open it fully without stopping and see if the ejectors are working properly if it is equipped with them instead of extractors. Do both empty hulls eject free and clear and together? Check the forend fit as well. Is it loose? You want it to snap into place firmly and remain secure, not moving around. Check the rib(s) to ensure it's not loose. If it has screw chokes ask to see them removed to ensure they are not seized. Check the face of the forend iron for scoring or gauling. Other than that I cannot think of much else other than look for cracks in the wood or signs of repairs such as chewed up screw slots etc. I'm sure some of the more knowledgeable folks on here will add a few things.
 
To me, damaged screws head are a major turn off.
- If the previous owner couldn't be bothered to use the correct screw drivers, I cannot help but wonder what else he/she/it tinkered with...

And I really like chatting with the previous owner. I know you should buy the gun not the story... But still, I've spent more on some guns because of the owner... and I've passed on the some guns because the previous owners... I guess we all have our quirks...
 
What about a Winchester 101, fixed choke. Is this a decent entry level O/U for Skeet and Trap? I have seen decent pricing under $ 1K, but has seen only a few reviews. Also the Canuck series and CZ series seems to be well priced, new. Again, not sure about the reliability.
 
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I got a Rem 11-87 Premier, very good condition, synthetic stock 2 yrs back with 26" and 28" barrels for about $ 750. Upgraded the Carrier Latch and Lifter with extended tab (OEM). My dilemma now is should I sell or trade this 11-87 for a decent O/U? Or sell/trade a mint Browning BPS Field (under 200 rds)?

stripperclipper said:
I'd buy a 101.
I keep hearing they have a reputation for harsh recoil, but I've never noticed anything crazy any time I've shot one.
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ambishooter said:
What about a Winchester 101, fixed choke. Is this a decent entry level O/U for Skeet and Trap? I have seen decent pricing under $ 1K, but has seen only a few reviews. Also the Canuck series and CZ series seems to be well priced, new. Again, not sure about the reliability.
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The 101 would be superior to the Canuck or CZ in resale value alone. You specify entry level which assumes that you are going to move on to more expensive guns at some point. The 101 will be much easier to sell and much easier to get parts for it when it breaks. They all break eventually.
 
Well - A fixed choke 101 is going to be 40 years old or more. They were very well made guns at the time. So it depends upon the condition of the gun after all these years. A hunting gun can show a lot of cosmetic wear, but have low mileage mechanics - which is a good thing. A gun used for sporting purposes can be excellent cosmetically, but be on its last legs mechanically.
I own a few 101's in very good shape, and enjoy them a lot. However, I was able to ascertain the condition of the guns before purchase, I would encourage you to do the same.
 
I haven't bought in a while but I think you can find an older Browning superposed in trap configuration for $1500 or less. Try to get the Lightning model. better handling because of the slimmer profile barrels. I use the Broadway versions. ('61 to '66 are the best ones IMO)
 
this was a great thread for me to get started on. On this same topic, which would have the less recoil? I ask as I had shoulder surgery on my right Sept/22, planning to get out say this spring (maybe too early?), but was looking to see which might be one I could enjoy as I start the venture into this sport

I did see really it is mostly about the fit, but thinking till the shoulder is back to 100% which might have the least recoil.

Thanks
 
JayGenX said:
this was a great thread for me to get started on. On this same topic, which would have the less recoil? I ask as I had shoulder surgery on my right Sept/22, planning to get out say this spring (maybe too early?), but was looking to see which might be one I could enjoy as I start the venture into this sport

I did see really it is mostly about the fit, but thinking till the shoulder is back to 100% which might have the least recoil.

Thanks
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You should focus on shooting light target loads (eg 1 oz at 1150 or 1200 fps) to minimize recoil. Additionally, a heavier gun will soak up recoil better (no aluminum receivers), as will a semi auto. Dont get too wrapped up with fit - a beginner doesnt have the knowledge to ascertain proper fit, and if you get into the sport seriously, you'll be buying another shotgun or two anyway. ;)
 
cosmic said:
You should focus on shooting light target loads (eg 1 oz at 1150 or 1200 fps) to minimize recoil. Additionally, a heavier gun will soak up recoil better (no aluminum receivers), as will a semi auto. Dont get too wrapped up with fit - a beginner doesnt have the knowledge to ascertain proper fit, and if you get into the sport seriously, you'll be buying another shotgun or two anyway. ;)
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Thanks! I have made a note in my phone with the suggestions in this thread and your reply! I have a - Mossberg 12G Bolt that I haven't used in ages, time to clean it and don't recall how much recoil it had, as a bit of weight to it. I wasn't sure to bother using that one to start or something as you mentioned with some weight/less recoil. Any O/U recommendations to toss out? I won't hold it against you should it become a safe kept gun later hahaha. As you said, my first one I grab won't be the last one.
 
JayGenX said:
Thanks! I have made a note in my phone with the suggestions in this thread and your reply! I have a - Mossberg 12G Bolt that I haven't used in ages, time to clean it and don't recall how much recoil it had, as a bit of weight to it. I wasn't sure to bother using that one to start or something as you mentioned with some weight/less recoil. Any O/U recommendations to toss out? I won't hold it against you should it become a safe kept gun later hahaha. As you said, my first one I grab won't be the last one.
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A used Citori is always a great choice, if you decide to sell it, you can usually get most, if not all of your money back. Buy your budget may be a little light for a Citori, with interchangeable chokes. If you buy a cheap Turkish gun, the resale is very poor.
 
Going back to a budget O/U, I saw this Mossberg Gold and Silver Reserve models. Made in Turkey, no mention if the Receiver is Steel or Aluminum Alloy. Any owner who can share experience on any or both models? Or shooters who had a chance to shoot and compare both?
 
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