A little 45 Colt advice needed.

Gele Donut

Gele Donut

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Just a little confused on 45 colt here. I'm thinking of picking up a Henry rifle in 45 colt and looking at my reloading manual it has different recipes for older guns and newer revolvers but how can I be sure exactly what the limits are for a new rifle? I've never loaded for this before (or anything coming from black powder really) but I like the idea of something a little milder for range plinking but that I could punch up a bit if needed. Just sort of wondering where to start it seems a bit silly to start really low on a modern rifle but at the same time I'm a little worried about starting a bit too hot and wrecking a $1000 gun and/or my face.
 
I am sure your Henry will handle the loads listed in modern manuals. Usually start with low or a medium load and work up to what works for you. Pay attention to pressure signs. As a rule of thumb most hotter or maximum loads aren't the most accurate. Your overall cartridge length is very important. If you don't seat your bullets to the proper depth you may have cycling problems in a tube magazine. Some revolvers have longer cylinders too. I had loads that cycled in my Ruger Blackhawk but were scraping lead off the bullet tips in my Uberti Cattleman. Most reloading manuals list a OAL and the firearm their loads were used in. Most loads for the modern Blackhawks and Tompson Center guns would be safe in a new Henry. But as always start lower and work up to what works safely and accurate.
 
Gele Donut: Henry rifles are very strong. Still....your wisest course is to start with relatively low pressure load data, intended for Colt revolvers. Preferably with the minimum load recommended for the bullet and powder you've selected. Then, work your way up until you find the load that delivers the balance of good accuracy and performance you desire. The Hodgdon Reloading site, is a good reference source. With load information that your manual may not have.
 
Which Henry rifle? Is it the brass framed repro of the original Henry, or a different modern steel frame model?

Yeah it makes a difference.
 
jethunter said:
Which Henry rifle? Is it the brass framed repro of the original Henry, or a different modern steel frame model?

Yeah it makes a difference.
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One of the snazzy Henry Big Boys not sure exactly which one yet they all look awesome but I can't afford one of each.

Thanks for the help everyone lots of good advice here to think about.
 
Gele Donut: A while back, Hickok45 reviewed the Henry Big Boy on his you tube channel. May be worth your time to look at. His sample was in .357 Mag.. But, all the features he reviewed and impressions he had, would apply equally, to .45 Colt. Search for: Hickok45 Henry Big Boy .357 Magnum. Hope this helps.

Al
 
I liked the Uberti Henry in .44-40 when I owned one.

I now shoot a Uberti 1873 Winchester copy in .44-40.

I like copies to be as authentic as possible as originals are expensive when in good shape.

Marlin makes their 1894 in .44 Magnum and you can always down load that cartridge.
 
sail32 said:
I liked the Uberti Henry in .44-40 when I owned one.

I now shoot a Uberti 1873 Winchester copy in .44-40.

I like copies to be as authentic as possible as originals are expensive when in good shape.

Marlin makes their 1894 in .44 Magnum and you can always down load that cartridge.
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The "Henry Original" model is supposedly true to the original pre-Winchester Henry except for the bits that were necessarily changed to fit 44-40 and 45 Colt chamberings.
 
If it were me; I'd load for current 45 Colt specs for post smokeless framed SAA Colts. . Start low and work up. . If you're reloading with lead bullets make sure to crimp to prevent the bullet moving forward in the case from recoil.
 
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SaddleTramp said:
I am sure your Henry will handle the loads listed in modern manuals. Usually start with low or a medium load and work up to what works for you. Pay attention to pressure signs. As a rule of thumb most hotter or maximum loads aren't the most accurate. Your overall cartridge length is very important. If you don't seat your bullets to the proper depth you may have cycling problems in a tube magazine. Some revolvers have longer cylinders too. I had loads that cycled in my Ruger Blackhawk but were scraping lead off the bullet tips in my Uberti Cattleman. Most reloading manuals list a OAL and the firearm their loads were used in. Most loads for the modern Blackhawks and Tompson Center guns would be safe in a new Henry. But as always start lower and work up to what works safely and accurate.
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Not wanting to appear condescending or start an argument, you are sure your Uberti is actually chambered in .44 mag and not .44 special?

Scraping lead off the remaining bullets in a cylinder doesn’t sound right...

Just checking.
 
A buddy of mine,who shoots cowboy action,has a Marlin lever gun in .45 colt that he loads for plinking with his kids.
It's 4.5 grains of Trail Boss behind a 200 grain semi wadcutter pistol bullet.Very accurate and mild recoil.Great for small game as well.
 
Gele Donut said:
Just a little confused on 45 colt here. I'm thinking of picking up a Henry rifle in 45 colt and looking at my reloading manual it has different recipes for older guns and newer revolvers but how can I be sure exactly what the limits are for a new rifle? I've never loaded for this before (or anything coming from black powder really) but I like the idea of something a little milder for range plinking but that I could punch up a bit if needed. Just sort of wondering where to start it seems a bit silly to start really low on a modern rifle but at the same time I'm a little worried about starting a bit too hot and wrecking a $1000 gun and/or my face.
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I am still looking for 45 Colt Lever but I do have a pair of 45Colt "Old" Vaqueros , I use Trailboss and plan to use it in the rifle as well. While Hodgdon has published data for .45 Colt revolver loads they don't have anything for rifle loads so I use this info.

Trail Boss Load Development Formula

If you do not see Trail Boss data for your favorite cartridge, we have a formula for developing loads for all cartridges and it is simple to follow. This formula may be used in both rifle and pistol applications:

1) Find where the base of the bullet to be loaded is in the case and make a mark on the outside of the case at this location. Then fill the case to that mark with Trail Boss, pour into the scale pan and weigh. This is your maximum load. Pressures will be below the maximum allowed for this cartridge and perfectly safe to use!

2) Take 70% of this powder charge weight (multiply the maximum load from step 1 by 0.70), and that is your starting load.

3) Start with this beginning load and work up to your maximum charge, all the while searching for the most accurate reduced load. Once found, the fun begins!
 
Trail Boss is a good powder for .45 caliber plinking loads. From my own experience, I've found that the optimum load (Best balance of accuracy/velocity) will be around 80-85% of the maximum charge. As determined by using the Hodgdon formula. It bears mentioning that, the 80-85% optimal charge seems to be pretty consistent across many cartridges and calibers, ie: .38 Long/Short Colt, .38 Spec., .357, .44 Special/Mag, .45 Colt, etc. At least, from my testing.
The big Colt cartridge responds well to a number of powders. I haven't tried any of the new IMR powders yet, ie: IMR Red, Target, etc. But there may be some good loads to be found when using these. For an all-around smokeless powder in the .45 Colt....plus others, I like Unique/Universal. A versatile powder.
 
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